Logic behind what rails to buy and when

I wouldn't discount the shorter rails either. I got the 31" with an OF1010 package and I'm surprised how much this is used along with all the other sizes.

The only advice I can reiterate and offer myself into this thread is;

1.) If you get any rails which have same sizes in the LR32 and non-LR32 options, clearly get the LR32 version.

2.) Get yourself the rail deflector, part number 489022. It will make it easier using the hoses as they catch on the edge and it will prevent damage;



3.) Don't get the combination bevel, part number 491588. I got this as part of a TS55 package, never used it myself and can't see me using it;

 
I used 2 1400 (55") rails connected for a long time until I got the 118" rail and 75" rail.

But If I were you to start I would go for 2 1400 holy rails.

You will need them later on in your festool buys believe me
 
tjacks66 said:
I like your combo RJNeal - you have both the TS55 and TS75?

Yes bought the 55 new first  then thr 75 used. I use the 55 the most and is with me daily. The 75 stay in the shop mostly.
Rick
 
It depends too if you are working on site or in the workshop? If you are indoors a nice long rail is easy and convinient (if more expensive) but transporting 8ft long rails is a real pain. Plus having them on the worksite around rough colleagues  [eek] [eek]
 
If you are doing sheet goods don't try it with any combination of joined rails. The rail connectors are crap with the small screws that will disappear on you. You also will have to contend with the rail not being perfectly straight if you move it, assuming it was in the first place. The solution is the 118". I also gave an assortment of shorter rails 32", 55", 75", and (2) of the holy 55".

Note that the rail connector for the holy rails is substantially better than the regular connector.

Also, don't be fooled into thinking the 106" rail will suffice for sheet goods because there is not enough length for the saw to be completely in the rail track at the start and finish of the cut.
 
I do custom acrylic fabrication and have the 75, regular 55, just bought two 55 lr-32 holey rails from Amazon warehouse and have a 32 for quicky work.  I work with 4X8 material mostly but occasionly need to cut 60X120.  I use the connectors along with my own version of the Betterly fabricated with 8020 10 series bi-fold hanger profile and 2012 extrusions.  The 2012 is just a hair taller than the rail but easily shimmed.  I like my version over the Betterly because ti is 4' long and I attach at two points on each rail.
 
Another question since I don't have the track saw or MFT/3 yet (I have a Delta table saw, made in America version before they went down the tubes) - the MFT/3 seems pretty small for working with full 4x8 sheets when compared to a table saw. When everyone speaks of using the larger rails for ripping sheet goods, are you usinga horse setup for the cuts, setting up with 2x4s on the floor, or somehow using the MFT/3?

I'm thinking of selling my Delta table saw to fund some of my Festool purchases and am trying to understand the workflow of large sheet goods with rails vs the tablesaw. If I were to find I need a table saw again down the road I'd get a SawStop with the safety features my Delta does not have. I have a garage workshop with no need to go offsite and would be willing to take the risk of selling the table saw to fund the Festool Track Saw system if it would cover my needs.
 
For full sheets I use sawhorses with a few 2 x 4's thrown on top.  Then a 2" foam sheet (a lot lighter than a sheet of plywood).  The MFT/3 is really in my mind the second part of the Festool workflow:

!.  Process sheet goods into smaller pieces with parallel sides
2.  Cut to length (square to sides) on the Mft/3
...

Peter
 
I have been wrestling with this issue for some time.  It would seem that rail length really might best be expressed as useable rail length.  Being as safe as can be with a sharp, rotating cutting device, and wanting accuracy to boot, one would want to keep both adjustment gibs in the rail channel, not start with a plunge cut and finish with both gibs in the rail channel. 
Using a TS 75 there is approx. 13 inches between the gibs.  Given that we want to start without plunging, would that not mean we need 13 inches of rail prior to cutting.  Also wanting to finish with both gibs in the channel at the finish, we would need 13 inches of rail at the end of the cut.  It would then seem, usable cutting length of any rail using a TS 75 would be the rail length minus 26 inches, giving:
          FS 800/2    32 in length for 6 in of useable cut length
          FS 1080      42 in length for 16 in of useable cut
          FS 1400      55 in length for 29 in of useable cut
          FS 1900      75 in length for 49 in of useable cut
          FS 2700      106 in length for 80 in of useable cut
          FS 3000      118 in length for 92 in of useable cut
What am I missing? [embarassed]
 
Your front "gib" is already over the sheep when you dart the cut and the back one is over the cut when you are done.
 
It does serve as another rail  [big grin].  The fact that it has oval holes at an exact 32mm increment might be useful for other idexing needs I guess, but it was really designed to be part of the LR 32 system.

Peter
 
skids said:
Is the Holey rail worth owning for any other reason than shelf pins?

Multiple holes to fasten it to a wall for horizontal cuts?
 
wow said:
skids said:
Is the Holey rail worth owning for any other reason than shelf pins?

Multiple holes to fasten it to a wall for horizontal cuts?

haha! Thats exactly how i'd use it most likely!

I do all sorts of weird stuff with my rails!
 
Back
Top