Long guide rails. Worth it?

[Dan Clark]

I have a bunch of rails, including the Festool 3000.  Festool rails are a bit delicate and need to be packaged carefully for transport.  That goes double for the 3000.    So, for onsite work I would not use the 3000.

However, I have lots of experience joining rails before buying the 3000.  In my experience, joining rails and keeping them aligned is a pain in the posterior.  For the shop (my work environment), the 3000 works great.  No worries about alignment and keeping it that way.  Fast and easy. 

Regards,

Dan.

 

[pettyconstruction]

I have 2 -55" and 2-75" rails and connect them as needed. But I will get a 118" rail eventually, I use my saw to cut deck boards in place , and the time savings would be worth it for me.
I have to join rails anyway, but less rails would be nice. So
Yes
Charlie

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[ach_78]

I think the joining system of Festool rails -those two metal tabs- is extremely poor and badly engineered. Actually it's like no engineering whatsoever went into this.

You can align properly two rails but :
- you need two joining pieces which are ridiculously priced for what they are (and you need to buy two pieces)
- you need to pay attention to rail parallelism
- you also need to pay attention to the rails parallax

Aligning two rails perfectly is possible but time consuming and a work of precision.
The set screws WILL mark the aluminium rails, possibly deform them if tighten too hard.
And, you can easily bump  the rails out of alignment while handling them.

Bottom line : if you are just trying to break down sheet goods you can join rails.
But if what you need is a reliable straight cut without second thought you will definetely be better of with a single long rail.

 

[Paul G]

I agree with those who say it is hard to keep the rails aligned once you get them there, the connectors suck.

Got a 3000 and have been fine since, and a few times have connected a short rail to the 3000 for long lumber or 10' sheet goods. Now that I think about it Festool is incentivized to keep their connectors pieces of junk in order to sell long rails. Well played Festool, you got me.

 

[Paul G]

If I had more stability in my workshop rental (bloody london) I'd buy a long rail in a second.

I stopped 'properly' joining rails together as too often I had inaccuracies. Now I simply leave one of the two rail connectors (the central one) sticking out of one of the rails at all times.
I join the rails with this one connector and don't screw it tight in the added rail. Then I use 3 pencils marks along the cut instead of 2 (one at either end) to line up the rails.

I find this method allows enough flex to move the rails into position but still keeps them dead in line where they meet. And sliding the rails together or apart happens in a second!

Hope that made sense.

That works except for when trying to use the tracksaw to make the first true edge to start.

 

[Svar]

I think the joining system of Festool rails -those two metal tabs- is extremely poor and badly engineered. Actually it's like no engineering whatsoever went into this.

Festool rails were designed some 50 years ago. Joining them was most definitely an afterthought.
However, I'm sure they could have came up with a new rail with Mafell-like connection AND backward compatibility. The current one has enough width and thickness to accommodate an extra channel for Mafell/Bosch-style self aligning connector.

 

[Turnamere]

I bought my FS2700 from Bunny's Bolts shortly after Ibought my TS 55 a good few years back, they have it  for £135 (£162 with VAT) at the moment.  Working with sheet goods I would estimate that my 1400 and 2700get similar amounts of use, my 800 is by far the least used.

 

[ear3]

Yes.  And definitely worth it to go 3000 over 2700.

 

[sancho57]

Yes and no, for me I had no problem with 2 1400 rails. I got good straight cuts with out buying all the fancy after market gizmos. I either used a straight edge/ level or just ran my saw up to where the 2 rails joined tighten the jibs on the saw down to aligned the rails and tighten the connectors.

But with that being said, Im pretty much shop bound.  I got tired of connecting the rails disconnecting the rail connecting the rail etc etc....

So I went out and got a 3000 rail. Made my life easier. But if I had to transport rails for onsite, Id use the 2 1400 and build me a wood working wizard rail box to store and transport them. You candy a search ad find it

 

[Dan-]

Dan, as far as clamping to smooth surfaces or situations where only one end can be clamped or even neither end...that's where the Geckos excell.  I have two sets and have used them for counter cutouts and to attach to plastics.

Ordered ! This forum....

 

[Ross 71]

Thanks everyone for your views and advice.

After wavering about the 3000 rail(difficult for transport and very expensive), then wondering if the 1900 rail might be the best compromise (but still a compromise and still relying on the rail joiners) but couldn't commit to it.

I tend to be workshop based for a time, then I'll be on a site for a couple of months building a barn or cabin. Its not like I have to transport the thing to and from site every day....

Mr Turnamere-thank you. I think your suggestion is the winner. I can live without the 300 mm for £70! Sadly your Bunny feller is open weekdays only or I'd have ordered the 2700 rail today. At the price I'd be mad no to, eh? I'll call him on Monday

Cheers all, Ross

 

[sancho57]

Bunny Bolts, Is Toolfest (well who my billing on my cc shows up), send Warren a PM, he is the owner of Toolfest. Maybe he can help get this sorted for you.

 

[joiner1970]

I got my 2700 from Warren at toolfest,  years ago. Stays in my workshop as it's too long for the van. Very handy.

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[Harry1561]

Thanks everyone for your views and advice.

After wavering about the 3000 rail(difficult for transport and very expensive), then wondering if the 1900 rail might be the best compromise (but still a compromise and still relying on the rail joiners) but couldn't commit to it.

I tend to be workshop based for a time, then I'll be on a site for a couple of months building a barn or cabin. Its not like I have to transport the thing to and from site every day....

Mr Turnamere-thank you. I think your suggestion is the winner. I can live without the 300 mm for £70! Sadly your Bunny feller is open weekdays only or I'd have ordered the 2700 rail today. At the price I'd be mad no to, eh? I'll call him on Monday

Cheers all, Ross

Ross, if you think it's expensive in the UK  Down under a 3m rail will set you back $695 Aussie dollars [scared] [eek]

 

[Ross 71]

Ross, if you think it's expensive in the UK  Down under a 3m rail will set you back $695 Aussie dollars [scared] [eek]

No wonder you guys swear a lot!

 

[Peterm]

Sorry, bit late to this thread. You can get the 3m Makita rail for around £150 inc VAT - bought mine when they were around 1/3 the price of the Festool rails. That said (I also have the 2.4m holey rail) I'd go for the 2.7 Festool for the extra 12 quid - much more 'grippy' than the Makita, IMHO.

HTH Pete

 

[Ross 71]

Pete, I like your signature line. My dilemma on this in a nutshell

 

[Job and Knock]

My 3000mm came from Powertool Supplies (Nuts & Bolts) in Weton. Jusyt looked, they are doing 2700s for £197 and the 3000s for £212 which is quite a hop up from the £166 I paid 15 months ago for my 3000. Bloody Brexit for you!

Oh, and yes, despite the problems in carrying it round it really is a time saver and more accurate than strapping 2 x 1400s together

 

[marktapungot]

these bags are nicer than festoool bags and they have a larger sized one https://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=56223&idcategory=0