long miters anyone?

[Warrior]

the thickness of the shim should equal the amount of flat left on the miter after you cut the 90 deg. rip then a 45 deg. rip.

 

[Eli]

Love a close up pic for correct laminate placement....

 

[Michael Kellough]

the thickness of the shim should equal the amount of flat left on the miter after you cut the 90 deg. rip then a 45 deg. rip.

This shouldn't be necessary. If the parts weren't engineered right Festool should have shimmed it at the factory to cut miters as promissed. But, maybe the saw is in spec.

There is another factor that can cause the same miter kerf misalignment. Are the green glide strips on your guide rail worn down to less than the proper height?

 

[Warrior]

The rails are all new. The saw left a flat on the miter since the day I received it. I talked with David Mc gibbins at Festool service but I got the feeling he didnt have a fix in mind when he stopped returning my phone calls regarding this issue.

 

[gkeas]

I own a ts75 w/ the 1400,2700,and 3000 rails.

I am currently on a job where I am making numerous columns and beams out of 3/4" qtr. ribbon african mahogany. the columns are (14) 14.5" x 14.5" x 7' , (3) 14.5"x14.5" x 12', and many more 3 sided beams and columns.
I had originally planned on using butt joints w/ dominos but am now leaning towards mitered corners w/ dominoes. This is due to the nature of the job and the look of different grain on the edge of vs the face stands out more than I had hoped.

I have (2) 4' x 7' mfts on the job to aid in the stock processing and assembly.

Does anyone have any tips for cutting clean, long, tru miters w minimal fuss?

Thanks,
Eiji

My first project with my TS75 was wrapping some exisiting columns with Cedar.  The existing columns were 7 1/4" square (184.15mm for those across the pond).  I underestimated  how wide (never did an actual calculation) the outside edges would be when I beveled the new wood, so I ordered 1x10x10' cedar planks.  As it turns out, I barely had enough width before I started the bevels, and cedar definitely has to be trued.

I simply set my TS up for the 45, then clampled the guide rail as close to the edge as i could (1-2mm) at its narrowes points (some of the boards were out as much as 3/8") and made my  bevel AND my trueing cut at the same time.  I flipped the board around, measured for finished width at both ends, clamped the rails, and did the other cut.

Keep in mind that this is the first time I've used this saw, and I'm don't have much experience to begin with.  These columns came out PERFECT!

This saw makes operations like this so simple even a Texan (transplanted to Colorado) can do it. ;D

I found  that working with the narrow stock, I clamped the stock to the makeshift work table, then clamped the rail to the stock.  I didn't want anything sliding around mid-cut.

 

[stevelf]

--I don't know, I'm a huge FF ( Festool Fan ), but for this situation, I once invested in a large-ish locking miter router bit, and ran the 5/4 mahogony on my router table. Then glued up with  West Marine epoxy and multiple clamps (horizontal box beams above columns). No nailing, no holes to be filled for staingrade... came out sweet !