I don’t have dimensions for the Chaos Wall, but your original post prompted me to watch Guido Henn’s videos yet again, which inspired me to build a bookcase at the back of a closet using a similar structure and using the Rafix style cabinet hardware, which I had never used before.
My process and end result wasn’t nearly as pretty as Guido’s, but it turned out pretty good for my first effort on this kind of thing. Not sure of your level of experience (I have very little in general) but maybe this info will be helpful in your design process.
I started out assuming 4x8 sheets of ¾” material. Eight feet translates to 2438.4mm tall. To use the 32mm system and LR-32, I saw that 2400 mm was pretty close and was divisible by 32, so that was the starting point.
The Rafix connectors required the hole pattern to have the top and bottom holes on the vertical dividers at 9.5mm from the end. You can see how that works if you look at his second Chaos video (Teil 2, at the 5:47 mark). The connectors I used are slightly different from his and only required one 20mm hole instead of two holes. Something like this:
https://www.hafele.com/us/en/produc...tem-with-ridge-zinc/000000130001613b00020023/;sid=WMkbQJUcTVQdQM1ylmwfq5UW7dkMJiAMT6-lv42U5jYDyA==#SearchParameter=&@QueryTerm=*&Category=CUrAqBtGP7gAAAFJ8qFygnXe&FF.followSearch=10000&PageNumber=1&OriginalPageSize=12&PageSize=12&Position=6&OrigPos=1&PDP=true
The Hafele Website has a couple of diagrams in addition to a photo of the hardware. Hettich makes something similar as well.
To account for that required distance, I calculated 2400 + 9.5 (top) + 9.5 (bottom) and came up with a cabinet height of 2419 mm.
If you are using the LR32 to cut your 32mm system holes for a project like his (a single vertical divider between two cabinets), you will be doing “through holes,” so use the pointy bit. I didn’t read my LR32 manual, so I started using the other bit and it worked ok but burned the melamine in a few places. Once I switched to the right bit, it worked much better and faster. I was using Melamine, so I used a sacrificial piece of plywood underneath when drilling, which seemed to work pretty well to prevent chipping.
Also, since (with this design) you will be putting screws for the connectors in both sides of the same “through hole” in the ¾” thick dividers, you either need to get short screws or use the threaded sleeves like he used.
My cabinet measurements didn’t need to match the Systainers, but if that is your goal, you could start with the diagram for the AZ drawer cabinet at the following link, to get the basic required width and depth dimensions for the cabinets, and then make them whatever height suits your space:
https://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/706994_002_MonAnl_SYS-AZ_Auszug .pdf.
They show the width as 427mm and depth of at least 380mm.
If you are making your own drawers instead of using AZ drawers, you might need to adjust the cabinet width for whatever drawer glides you select.
If you are adding a cabinet back like Guido used, you might also need to add some depth to the cabinet to account for that. He also routed grooves for his cabinet backs, so if you are going to do grooves, you not only need to account for the width of the cabinet back material (i.e., ¼”), but also for the distance between the groove and the back of the cabinet (maybe another ¼” or ½”) so that you end up with enough clearance. Since I didn’t need drawers, I just went with 14” deep.
The AZ drawer diagram in that link shows the bottom hole at “equal to or greater than” 8mm from the top of the cabinet bottom. That is so that the lowest AZ drawer in the stack will have clearance for the locking mechanism.
But if you are using the Rafix connectors with your holes starting and ending at 9.5mm, the first hole above the bottom shelf isn’t going to be 8mm, and instead will be 22.5mm (I think). Looking again at the Teil 2 video at that same 5:47 mark, you can see where the first hole will be. So, if you are using the Rafix connectors and the AZ drawers, you might not get maximum use of your space. Maybe someone has a suggestion on that issue.
One other thing about the AZ drawer diagram. It shows the front row of holes at 58mm from the front of the cabinet. For something other than AZ drawers, you might need to use 37mm from the front, and then you would space the rear row of holes in 32mm increments from the front row of holes (or if you purchase your drawer glides in advance, just make sure the back row of holes is lined up with the front row).
Guido used a router to bore the 20mm holes in the tops and bottoms for the Rafix hardware. Festool has a 20mm euro hinge boring bit (491072), but no one had them in stock, so I used a 20mm forstner bit on a drill press, which seemed to work fine. I am going to order the Festool bit for future use.
If you are not using a jig for the Rafix connectors, you need to be extremely precise. The screws that go into the vertical dividers have a shoulder, and as I realized when installing the stuff, if the distance between your front and rear rows of holes does not match perfectly with the distance between your Rafix connectors on the cabinet tops and bottoms, the shoulders will prevent them from magically popping into place like in Guido’s video. Even a mallet might not get them to work.
Lastly, if you are using Melamine, you can get the Festool solid surface laminate blade (496309). I used that and didn’t have any problems with chipping.
Hope this helps. Don’t rely on my math—I just finished the project so it is fresh in my mind, but my drawings are at home so I am going from memory.
