LR 32 Extensions

GarryMartin

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Jun 11, 2011
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Not finished playing with this particular "enhancement" yet but thought I'd note my experiment results so far just in case they are useful to others.

The LR 32 guides use a 14mm aluminium hexagonal bar in the lateral stops. Even in the UK (i.e. metric) I couldn't find a supplier of aluminium hex bars with that dimension, although there are plenty of steel hex bars at 14mm available. What you can buy though is 1/2" or 9/16" AF hex bar (12.7mm or 14.2875mm).

If you look at the LR 32 lateral stops, you can see daylight under the hex bar where it connects to the plastic housing. I assumed that the 1/2" bar would therefore fit as it would just drop lower in the housing. Indeed it does, but as you can see in the first picture, you cannot then tighten the top retaining plate on to it.

However, despite the 9/16" bar being slightly larger overall that the original part, it does fit, and works *very* well as you can see in the second photo.

I only purchased 100mm lengths of each size for my experiment, and have further trials to do with placing scales on the bar, but it certainly opens the door to extending the range of the supplied stops. I've seen this discussed before, with hardwood dowels and threaded bar being suggested, and I even remember viewing an "artists impression" in one of the documents I have somewhere, but I can't recall seeing it "in person" or using hexagonal bar.

For now, at least my experiment has taken a step forward and I know the 9/16" is the correct size to acquire.

Now all I need to do if figure out what the most appropriate length for the extensions might be, and wonder how long they can be before there is a potential to lose some accuracy.
 

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Very cool.  Anyone that has used the LR32 has thought about this mod.  I'm glad someone is making ground towards actually making it happen. [thumbs up]  I'll be keeping an eye open for updates on the progress. 
 
Brice Burrell said:
I'll be keeping an eye open for updates on the progress. 

Thanks Brice.

I've ordered some laser transfer paper to see whether I can easily reproduce an accurate scale on the aluminium bar, so results of that soon.

I know you've used the LR 32 a lot; what are your thoughts on length for the extensions?

 
GarryMartin said:
Brice Burrell said:
I'll be keeping an eye open for updates on the progress. 

Thanks Brice.

I've ordered some laser transfer paper to see whether I can easily reproduce an accurate scale on the aluminium bar, so results of that soon.

I know you've used the LR 32 a lot; what are your thoughts on length for the extensions?

The standard width of a base cabinet panel is 24"/610mm, I assume it is the same for you guys over there?  So I don't see any practical reason to have rods longer than 24"/610mm. 
 
I will agree with Brice that you will have a length that is a sweet spot that is rarely exceeded.  BUT, if the extensions prove to be unwieldy in a longer length than having the ability to use them to set the dimension on the good side to 32" for instance versus 48" - 16" - the kerf might be easier to do.

Peter
 
[popcorn]   

interested as to why you would need longer stop rods.    I'll be keeping an eye on this as well. 

Are you trying to use them as a substitute for the parallel guides??    [scratch chin]

Eric
 
I've wanted something like that for drilling another column of holes to be used for drawer glides.  There are probably easier ways, since you only need to put in another 3 or 4 holes 224mm (or whatever) back from the first set, but when the LR32 is sitting there after boring the first column, I've found myself wishing for that.  I ended up using the Seneca parallel guides to do the same thing (along with a 224mm spacer).

Maybe another reason would be to be able to bore both sets of shelf pin holes without having to flip the panel or rail?  Maybe for the speed demons.

      Scott
 
A few months ago I built a closet interior and I used the LR32 guides to size my bulkheads. I didn't even think that they work as pysudo parallel guides.
Gary
[attachthumb=#]
 
I agree that the extensions don't work as parallel guides.  I find that it is extremely difficult to set both to exactly the same distance.  As I am currently building a number of cabinets, I had to find a better way.  I need to say that I was already using Brice's method of using the parallel guides for repeatability.  What I found that works for me was to only use one of the extensions in the process.  I first set one end with the extension and then snugged the parallel guide to the panel on that side and then using the same extension, repeated on the other end. 

I needed this because I was drilling some through holes to connect adjoining cabinets and any misalignment more than a few tenths of a mm caused a problem.

I found that using these together gave the accuracy I needed.

As to the original discussion, I think a method of rotating the guide rail 90 degrees about a specific hole would be extremely useful for accurately setting drawer slide holes.

Dick
 
greymann said:
I agree that the extensions don't work as parallel guides.  I find that it is extremely difficult to set both to exactly the same distance.  As I am currently building a number of cabinets, I had to find a better way.  I need to say that I was already using Brice's method of using the parallel guides for repeatability.  What I found that works for me was to only use one of the extensions in the process.  I first set one end with the extension and then snugged the parallel guide to the panel on that side and then using the same extension, repeated on the other end. 

I needed this because I was drilling some through holes to connect adjoining cabinets and any misalignment more than a few tenths of a mm caused a problem.

I found that using these together gave the accuracy I needed.

As to the original discussion, I think a method of rotating the guide rail 90 degrees about a specific hole would be extremely useful for accurately setting drawer slide holes.

Dick

For those who might be looking to use the parts from the LR 32 as a pseudo parallel guide for positioning the guide rail, if you are having difficulties in setting both to the same dimension, take a look at the first couple of minutes in this video.  The concept would be the same but you would be setting the rubber strip to the line.  

Brian shows how to set rails and achieve parallel

Peter
 
So the transfer paper onto the aluminium bar works, but I'm going to need a jig to keep the bar still and the iron flat while it's held on. As you can see in the photo below, some parts of the ruler didn't transfer fully - probably because it was difficult to keep the iron in one place with the same pressure.

But the principle works, so it's just the execution that needs tweaking. Or I need to invest in a proper heat press.

Moving forward...  [smile]
 

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Hey, i know this thread is ooooold, but was looking for this same type of solution.

I'm making some sys-cabs that are two systainers deep, with 28"/700mm full extension slides, and the cab sides being 700mm deep.

I was making the holes with the LR-32 for the slides. and because it's for mounting slides, I wanted to keep the reference off the front edge for all holes; If it was just shelf pins, i'd reference from the back, but found it was a TINY bit off if i referenced the back instead of the front for all holes.

First row, 37mm back, is no problem.

Second row, I had to attach the hex rods in the other direction, to give it proper reach, then spend a bit getting the math right for what the scale now actually equals to the center of the router bit. Annoying, but it worked.

Third row, forget about it.

Anywho, how did you end up making out with the testing on this?

thanks!

Ev

 
Simplest and easiest method.  I have yet to see any other method that is easy or cheap. Provided you can do simple math or at least work a calculator.  No long gangly bars to deal with most of the time you dont even need to adjust the bars.  See reply #4 on This thread.  Some really try to needlessly over complicate the LR32 system.  It has its bugs but most are easy to overcome.
 
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