LR 32 hole drilling kit with 1400 series router

[woodrat]

Thanks guys, I'm working on more animation as we speak, or as I type really  Wink. Any request on my next animation project?

Festool corporate should be licensing your work.

Which programs do you use to create these fantastic animations?

Jeff K

edit: spelling

 

[Les]

Thanks guys, I'm working on more animation as we speak, or as I type really  . Any request on my next animation project?
Brice

Brice,

How about setting up the MFT with a saw?

 

[Brice Burrell]

 Jeff, the 3D models are made with SketchUp, then I use an old Microsoft program Picture It! to make the animation. Attached is a picture of the router in x-ray view, you can see there is a lot of individual part to this model (read a lot of time). I'm am glad this has been well received, it make all the work worth while.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Thanks guys, I'm working on more animation as we speak, or as I type really  . Any request on my next animation project?
Brice

Brice,

How about setting up the MFT with a saw?

That's what I was thinking.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The sorcerer's apprentice at work!

Since there is no dust extractor connected I guess you have animate dust and debris next. Someone send Brice a copy of Maya.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Thanks guys, I'm working on more animation as we speak, or as I type really  . Any request on my next animation project?
Brice

Brice,

Please lead us all the way through making Euro style cabinets, including machining for installation of knock-down hardware.  I recently toured a home with a recently remodeled kitchen and noticed some of the adjustable shelves were supported by little (5 mm?) pins set into holes like those routed with Festool's LR32.  The undersides of the shelves were machined with a little recess to accept and hide the pins.  How did they do that efficiently?  Also, other shelves/partitions appeared to be locked into position.  The undersides of these shelves/partitions appeared to have a  machined recess of about ~20 mm diameter equipped with a round fitting having a slot which seemed to grip one of those shelf pins.  What are those fasteners and how do you machine the parts to make it all come correctly together?  It look like a great system to use to make cabinets that could be shipped flat and then assembled at the work site.  Also, the cabinets appeared to be made from an MDF material having prefinished maple or birch veneer.  I would like to learn enough to design and build cabinets like these, including flush and overlay doors with adjustable Euro hinges and adjustable height position Euro drawer slides.

Dave R.

Dave R.

 

[Lou Miller]

Dave, I use those same shelf pins, only in 1/4 diameter instead of 5mm. Since April, I've just been using my Domino to make the mortises for the pins in the underside of the shelves. Its pretty simple and very straight forward. I used to do them with a jig and a router, but the Domino is a lot easier and faster.

 

[Jim McFarland]

Speaking of shelf pins: Has anyone used the Lee Valley threaded insert shelf pins in hardwood?  I really like the design and look of these but I've not been successful in finding the right bit for hardwood applications.

I've used the 1400/LR32 with a 1/4" spiral upcut to drill these holes in plywood.  Lee Valley specs call for a 6.75mm hole in softwood, but the 6.35mm (aka 1/4") bit works with a bit of persuasion to press the insert (so far I haven't damaged a plywood carcass).  Lee Valley recommends a 7mm bit in hardwood. I tried a Festool 7mm bit in walnut but the fit was a bit sloppy -- in fairness, it could have been poor technique as I just spring clamped the router base to a scrap piece of hardwood -- could have moved some.

The Lee Valley inserts can be found at http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40184&cat=3,43648,43649

Thanks

 

[Brice Burrell]

Dave, is this what you are talking about?
Blum RTA (Ready To Assemble) fittings , picture attached. I have never used this type of fastener. Don't think I like the idea of knockdown cabinets. They seem a little flimsy and cheap looking. If I were to build any type of knockdown cab, it would be with pocket screws and/or dominoes. This would allow for the usual construction of the cabinet but still being easy to get to the job in parts.

  I really like your idea of doing a complete step by step of building of a Euro style cabinet. Maybe with photos, video, SketchUp models and animation. That could be fun! The bad news is I don't know when I would have the time to do it. Right now I am trying to recruit a fellow FOG member to do a write up for my site on his process of using the Domino to make cabinets carcasses. That, I hope will be the next thing up on my site.

Jim, I've not seen those before, but they look interesting.

 

[Overtime]

I am in the process of making some 32mm frameless upper cabinets now and will soon add a thread on the subject. Till then I have some pics in my gallery album
http://www.festoolownersgroup.com/CoppermineMain/thumbnails.php?album=55

 

[Dan Clark]

Patrick,

Nice work.  Nice pics.  One of my future projects is making some cabinets for the garage (shop).  I like the looks of yours.

Thanks for posting,

Dan.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Dave, is this what you are talking about? ...[photos of Euro knockdown hardware]

  I really like your idea of doing a complete step by step of building of a Euro style cabinet. Maybe with photos, video, SketchUp models and animation. That could be fun! The bad news is I don't know when I would have the time to do it. Right now I am trying to recruit a fellow FOG member to do a write up for my site on his process of using the Domino to make cabinets carcasses. That, I hope will be the next thing up on my site.

Brice,

That appears very close to what I recall seeing, except that I thought I was seeing a cylindrical portion of a pin [much like a shelf pin] rather than a screw.  But a screw makes much more sense because its head provides an abutting surface to engage the little round insert, and the joint to be drawn up tight.

I generally and strongly agree with your view of not using knock-down hardware where you can avoid it.  Almost everything I have built is glued up M&T or other fitted joints, with splines and glue blocks.  No nails in my furniture, backs of cabinets are fastened with screws.  BUT..., the modules of an entertainment center I am designing may be too heavy for members of my family to move into the house from the shop.  The smallest module will be the base cabinet for the TV at 52-54" W X 22" H X 20-22" D with doors and shelves [some removable] and a back.  And my daughter and husband are likely to be relocating frequently as a part of their work, so knock-down cabinetry to store their vast collection of music CDs, books and instruments may be the best gift I can make for them.

Thanks, again, for your great instructional video on use of the hole drilling jig!  I will definitely put that to use.

Dave R.