LR 32 rail connector

[afish]

Also if you cut your panels using 32mm increments you can reference off the top and then bottom with just one rail.  It requires switching the end stop each time.  I would drill the same number of holes up or down from each edge just incase the panels length is off a half a mm or so.     

Thanks [member=73094]afish[/member] .  I have made a few cabinets now with my LR32 and really like it.  I do want to figure out a method to stop using edge stops.  One of my next projects is a kitchen pantry redo and I will have a few panels that are about 72" long and your suggestion is really the simplest way to get this done.  Thanks.

No problem, Keep in mind you dont HAVE to cut your panel at 32mm increment to come in from both sides.  If for some reason you are trying to match a height of some existing cabinets or cant make the 32mm work. There is a simple work around for drilling the holes and maintaining the 32mm spacing.  For example well use your 72" as an example since it falls between 32mm increment.

72" = 1828.8mm
closest 32mm increment over 1828.8 is 58 x 32 = 1856
1856 - 1828.8 = 27.2mm

So you can cut your panel at 72" then rip a small piece of scrap at the 27.2 or any combination of 27.2 + any increment of 32 if you dont want to or if its easier not to make such a narrow cut.  Now just take that piece and put it in between the top of the gable and the end stop (whatever end top or bottom side you choose you will need to do the same for all panels) dont put the spacer in the top on one and the bottom of the other.  That should keep your 32mm spacing consistent from the bottom or the top which ever you choose.  That is the simplest way I know of to use one 55" rail on tall gable panels not on the 32mm but I have a good table saw so it only takes me a minute to whip out a spacer. A cheap pair of digital calipers and any type of accurate saw table, miter will work. 

You confused me a little by saying you want to eliminate "edge" stops since we're talking end stops but I do have some posts about eliminating the edge stops (for the most part) in another thread If you have or use a MFT style bench.  The edge stops are the one part of the LR32 system that bug me.  Dont get me wrong I think the LR32 is the best system overall and all systems have their pluses and minuses but those edge (not end) stops slow the LR32 system waaaaay down.  Once I had my system dialed in to eliminate the edge stop it's amazing how fast you can batch out panels with the LR32     

 

[sancho57]

To join 2 rails and keep the 32mm increment,

First ya need rail connectors. The ya take the LR32 end stop on the side that has 16 you'll see a = sign. Put the end stop in between both rails add the screws/ knob to tight the end stop. Take the rail conctor slide and join them like you normally would. tighten connectors remove end stop. You will maintain your 32 mm increment. You can join as many rails as you want as long as you have the connectors and the end stop.

 

[Rick Herrick]

No problem, Keep in mind you dont HAVE to cut your panel at 32mm increment to come in from both sides.  If for some reason you are trying to match a height of some existing cabinets or cant make the 32mm work. There is a simple work around for drilling the holes and maintaining the 32mm spacing.  For example well use your 72" as an example since it falls between 32mm increment.
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You confused me a little by saying you want to eliminate "edge" stops since we're talking end stops but I do have some posts about eliminating the edge stops (for the most part) in another thread If you have or use a MFT style bench.  The edge stops are the one part of the LR32 system that bug me.  Dont get me wrong I think the LR32 is the best system overall and all systems have their pluses and minuses but those edge (not end) stops slow the LR32 system waaaaay down.  Once I had my system dialed in to eliminate the edge stop it's amazing how fast you can batch out panels with the LR32   

Thanks for the work-around.  I hope to do my best to always use a size equally divisible by 32.  Just makes things so much easier. 

WRT to the edge stops, As you mention, they are slow and I can't see the gauge well enough to find 37 and 61 (back set).  I have seen your other posts and I when I get the time, I will investigate doing something like you mention.  Until I get the time, I have to just go with the regular method.

 

[Rick Herrick]

To join 2 rails and keep the 32mm increment,

First ya need rail connectors. The ya take the LR32 end stop on the side that has 16 you'll see a = sign. Put the end stop in between both rails add the screws/ knob to tight the end stop. Take the rail conctor slide and join them like you normally would. tighten connectors remove end stop. You will maintain your 32 mm increment. You can join as many rails as you want as long as you have the connectors and the end stop.

I am missing something here.  Any chance of a picture?  Today I tried to join a 42" and 55" holey rails and I could not figure it out, in order to get the 32mm spacing to continue.  With 1 end stop, not sure how to attach it to both rails.  I think I have seen a picture of what you say but I can't find it.

 

[sancho57]

You will still need the rail connectors to connect 2 rails. The end stops will set the gap once the gap is set tighten the rail connecors and remove the end stop and put it on the end of  holy rail.

Look at a end stop. The side that has the 16 will have a = in the middle of it. take the end stop with the = and attach it to the holy rails. the pins on the end stop should go into the holes on the rails w the = in about the middle of the gap between both rails. Then tight your guide rail connectors after the guide rail connectors are tightened you should have a gap between the 2 rails that will allow you to continue with the shelf pin holes at 32mm .

If I have time tomorrow Ill set it up and take a photo for you. The main thing is to place the pins on the end stop on both rails with the 16 up and the = in the center of the gap between the 2 holy rails.

 

[Rick Herrick]

You will still need the rail connectors to connect 2 rails. The end stops will set the gap once the gap is set tighten the rail connecors and remove the end stop and put it on the end of  holy rail.

Look at a end stop. The side that has the 16 will have a = in the middle of it. take the end stop with the = and attach it to the holy rails. the pins on the end stop should go into the holes on the rails w the = in about the middle of the gap between both rails. Then tight your guide rail connectors after the guide rail connectors are tightened you should have a gap between the 2 rails that will allow you to continue with the shelf pin holes at 32mm .

If I have time tomorrow Ill set it up and take a photo for you. The main thing is to place the pins on the end stop on both rails with the 16 up and the = in the center of the gap between the 2 holy rails.

[member=10147]jobsworth[/member] Thank you.  I completely glossed over the 'guide rail connectors'.  I was only thinking the end stops that come with the LR32 kit.  My bad. I have been meaning to get a version of rail connector but haven't needed so haven't put much effort in to it.  Once I have them, your suggestion will clear it up for me.

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=10147]jobsworth[/member] Thank you.  I completely glossed over the 'guide rail connectors'.  I was only thinking the end stops that come with the LR32 kit.  My bad. I have been meaning to get a version of rail connector but haven't needed so haven't put much effort in to it.  Once I have them, your suggestion will clear it up for me.

 

[member=72312]Rick Herrick[/member], suggest that you take a very serious look at the TSO GRC-12 to get joined rails aligned and stable.  [smile]

 

[Rick Herrick]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] Thanks Willy, did & done... Ordered this morning.