LR 32 rail connector

[Rick Herrick]

I have searched a good bit trying to find this answer in the history posts but so far no luck.

As we know, using the lower end shelf pin jigs, you can set it up, drill out some holes, reposition the jig and continue on until you are at the end of your work piece.

Is this not an option with the LR 32 set up?  You have to use either the correct length rail or join 2 or more?  Not arguing the point, just trying to make sure I am not missing anything.  I have a 55" coming with the LR 32 I ordered, and I had recently found a used 42" holey rail, so all I would eventually need is to decide which connector system to get. 

Thanks folks..

 

[PeterJJames13]

This Instagram post will probably help...
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CBoT_-zJ61D/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Good stuff.

 

[Rick Herrick]

This Instagram post will probably help...
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CBoT_-zJ61D/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Good stuff.

Thanks Peter.  I am not sure that answers my question though.  It shows how to join 2 rails.  My question is can I do a longer piece without a second rail?  Similar to remove the rail, reposition it somewhere over one of the previous holes, and continue on.  Maybe Sedge is saying that but I didn't pick it up.. [big grin]

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=72312]Rick Herrick[/member] I'm going to go with "No." The only thing the rail has which you could reference are the oblong holes that the LR32 guide plate pin drops into. You aren't actually boring holes through anywhere on the guide rail. The router bores the holes off to the side. So I don't see how you could drop a locating pin in a previous hole to register and move the rail forward.

 

[Dick Mahany]

It should be possible to re-index the rail by leaving the router bit extended into a previously drilled shelf pin hole, then retracting the LR32 guide plate index pin and sliding the rail further along the panel.  Then re-engage the indexing pin.  That might introduce a small amount of error so try it out on scrap first.

 

[Rick Herrick]

[member=72312]Rick Herrick[/member] I'm going to go with "No." The only thing the rail has which you could reference are the oblong holes that the LR32 guide plate pin drops into. You aren't actually boring holes through anywhere on the guide rail. The router bores the holes off to the side. So I don't see how you could drop a locating pin in a previous hole to register and move the rail forward.

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] Thanks Matt, that is what I needed to understand.  That makes sense.

It should be possible to re-index the rail by leaving the router bit extended into a previously drilled shelf pin hole, then retracting the LR32 guide plate index pin and sliding the rail further along the panel.  Then re-engage the indexing pin.  That might introduce a small amount of error so try it out on scrap first.

[member=59951]Dick Mahany[/member] Thanks Dick, I think I understand that and based on what Matt said, maybe its just not meant to be, but I may try this just to see if if works.

Mostly just PO'd at my dealer for not telling me the 'swap your rail for a holey rail on this TS55 you just bought'.  If I had known about that then, I would soon have 2x 55" holey rails and all would be good in Tune Town.

 

[jeh]

It's a system that works, but leaves a lot to be desired. Not quite if the only tool you have is a hammer then everything looks like a nail, but very close. Close to insane considering the cost and what you get for it.

 

[Bob D.]

"Mostly just PO'd at my dealer for not telling me the 'swap your rail for a holey rail on this TS55 you just bought'.  If I had known about that then, I would soon have 2x 55" holey rails and all would be good in Tune Town."

Yes, why do they even mae rails w/o holes? This has been brought up before, bu tI don't remember the answer. I don't see how the holes impact any sort of work you might do that does not involve the LR32 system and using the holes. I was able to swap my rail when I bought my TSC55, and I bought a second holey rail so that I can do just as you wish you could.

Eric did some great videos on using the LR32 system. Might pick up a few tricks if you watch them.

Building Kitchen Cabinets part 5. Drilling adjustable shelf pin holes.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Eric did some great videos on using the LR32 system. Might pick up a few tricks if you watch them.

Building Kitchen Cabinets part 5. Drilling adjustable shelf pin holes.

Thanks Bob, already watched his LR32 series.  On to the kitchen series now.  So far I like everything this guy does.

 

[Sparktrician]

Thanks Peter.  I am not sure that answers my question though.  It shows how to join 2 rails.  My question is can I do a longer piece without a second rail?  Similar to remove the rail, reposition it somewhere over one of the previous holes, and continue on.  Maybe Sedge is saying that but I didn't pick it up.. [big grin]

It can be done, and easily, but there's a chance of the rail slipping unless clamped.  Another thing you might want to know is that the joining methodology, whether Festool, Makita, TSO, whatever still depends on the use of the guide blocks mentioned to you previously to get the correct hole spacing from rail to rail.  The rails are not butted up against each other and locked into place.  If you need clarity, you know how to ping me directly.  [smile]

 

[Rick Herrick]

It can be done, and easily, but there's a chance of the rail slipping unless clamped.  Another thing you might want to know is that the joining methodology, whether Festool, Makita, TSO, whatever still depends on the use of the guide blocks mentioned to you previously to get the correct hole spacing from rail to rail.  The rails are not butted up against each other and locked into place.  If you need clarity, you know how to ping me directly.  [smile]

Thanks Willy.  I did notice that rough gap between rails in that IG link Peter gave.  It surprised me but it did make sense.  My stuff should have been here tomorrow but I got word its a little late so maybe by Friday.  Thanks for your help.

 

[pettyconstruction]

As far as joining two rails,
Find someone with a 3D printer and make a block with pins at 32mm.
Put the block on the rail, line up the holes and attaché rails together.
Should work
Charlie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[bellchippy]

Item LA-LR 32 FS. No 496938 is made for joining rails, it is positioned on the underside and the two rails are clamped by the thumbscrew, this locks the spacing at 32mm the the two usual rail joining strips are tightened up, and the LA-LR 32 FS is removed before use.

Brian

 

[Bob D.]

As far as joining two rails,
Find someone with a 3D printer and make a block with pins at 32mm.
Put the block on the rail, line up the holes and attaché rails together.
Should work
Charlie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I agree this should work but isn't it possible to make your own spacer using your rail? Just punch some holes at 0, 64, and 96mm, then use this with a couple pins to space the two rails out and lock down the connector bar. As you said should work and no 3d printer required.

Or, if you have the LR32 kit, use the nubs located on one side of the longitudinal stops (#497266) to space the rails the proper distance. One face has only one nub, but the other face has four.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Hopefully my LR 32 kit will be here soon and I will see what parts do come with it.  I think it was already mentioned that using a single 55" rail to do an 8' board is doable, but probably a little risky.  So I will probably will end up with 2 rails and do it the normal way.

 

[afish]

Also if you cut your panels using 32mm increments you can reference off the top and then bottom with just one rail.  It requires switching the end stop each time.  I would drill the same number of holes up or down from each edge just incase the panels length is off a half a mm or so.       

 

[jcrowe1950]

As far as joining two rails,
Find someone with a 3D printer and make a block with pins at 32mm.
Put the block on the rail, line up the holes and attaché rails together.
Should work
Charlie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I agree this should work but isn't it possible to make your own spacer using your rail? Just punch some holes at 0, 64, and 96mm, then use this with a couple pins to space the two rails out and lock down the connector bar. As you said should work and no 3d printer required.

Or, if you have the LR32 kit, use the nubs located on one side of the longitudinal stops (#497266) to space the rails the proper distance. One face has only one nub, but the other face has four.

    I'll look at this next time I am at work, but it appears the longitudinal stops from the kit are exactly the same part as the new listing for
Guide Rail Index LA-LR 32 FS
Item number 496938

$32.00

  If that is true, and you have the LR32 kit, joining two holey rails should be fairly straightforward. You just use the same part to align the rails as you do for indexing from the edges of your cabinet sides. Who knew.

 

[pettyconstruction]

As far as joining two rails,
Find someone with a 3D printer and make a block with pins at 32mm.
Put the block on the rail, line up the holes and attaché rails together.
Should work
Charlie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I agree this should work but isn't it possible to make your own spacer using your rail? Just punch some holes at 0, 64, and 96mm, then use this with a couple pins to space the two rails out and lock down the connector bar. As you said should work and no 3d printer required.

Or, if you have the LR32 kit, use the nubs located on one side of the longitudinal stops (#497266) to space the rails the proper distance. One face has only one nub, but the other face has four.

    I'll look at this next time I am at work, but it appears the longitudinal stops from the kit are exactly the same part as the new listing for
Guide Rail Index LA-LR 32 FS
Item number 496938

$32.00

  If that is true, and you have the LR32 kit, joining two holey rails should be fairly straightforward. You just use the same part to align the rails as you do for indexing from the edges of your cabinet sides. Who knew.

That’s cool, I don’t have a lr -32 kit ,so I was just spitballing a idea.
Btw , it’s on the list of things I want.
Cheers,Charlie

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[GarryMartin]

If that is true, and you have the LR32 kit, joining two holey rails should be fairly straightforward. You just use the same part to align the rails as you do for indexing from the edges of your cabinet sides. Who knew.

It changed some years ago, so depending on whether you are looking at old images or not, you'll see different connectors. I ordered the rail joiners at the same time as my LR 32 kit and found they were the same thing.

Ironically, many years later, the "extra" set are on eBay right now as they've been in a cupboard gathering dust!

 

[Rick Herrick]

Also if you cut your panels using 32mm increments you can reference off the top and then bottom with just one rail.  It requires switching the end stop each time.  I would drill the same number of holes up or down from each edge just incase the panels length is off a half a mm or so.     

Thanks [member=73094]afish[/member] .  I have made a few cabinets now with my LR32 and really like it.  I do want to figure out a method to stop using edge stops.  One of my next projects is a kitchen pantry redo and I will have a few panels that are about 72" long and your suggestion is really the simplest way to get this done.  Thanks.