LR32 Advice

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sheperd80

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Oct 28, 2016
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I'm considering the LR32 system and i could use some input. Instead of the $500+ systainer set, can i just buy a guide rail, a 5mm router bit and this?

festools-online.com/583290-festool-hole-drilling-set.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw-bLVBRBMEiwAmKSB89cyQ8e2ndA1lQEiLNRFljQNtOgTC8XpJoKrAcM2OGawyPDRpuVcDRoCijkQAvD_BwE

I have an OF1010 and dont plan to use this for boring doors, just line boring. It seems like that small set has all the stops i need but so hard to tell with the way festool names things.

Im working from a small shop and doing large cabinet projects. Ive always used drilling jigs for line boring but its just so slow and im not happy with the results. I get a little tearout on most of the holes, even when drilling very carfefully. I need clean, repeatable results and this system seems like my best bet. The systainer set plus guide rail puts me at around $700, versus around $450 for the option i linked above.

Thanks for any advice.
 
Yup, you can do this – and I've done so. Saves you a good amount if you don't care for the systainer. The systainer version of the kit also adds 2 screw clamps, but if you already have clamps you don't need them.
 
As Kriss touched on, you'll also need to add Festool guide rail clamps to your list. 

There are two 5mm bits, the 491066 is a brad point bit, and the 491064 that is sort a spear point.  The brad point bit is for drilling holes that don't go all the way through the work piece; and the spear point bit is for through holes (for a center panel with holes on both side).  Both bits make very clean holes. 
 
Ok then Ill probably get two of the brad point style bits for line boring.

Ive got a few quick clamps already for my track saw, so im good there.

Thanks for the help!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 
Shep, I don't think the clamps you have are the ones Brice was referring to in his post.
 
jbair said:
Shep, I don't think the clamps you have are the ones Brice was referring to in his post.
Click to expand...

No, the clamps he has will work just fine.
 
Yes you will save money. But as stated there are some extra pieces you’ll need. Keeping them together in a systainer is very helpful. I am a firm believer in organization. Yes the systainer will add two more clamps, but as many have said you never have enough clamps. And as I have learned in my Festool journey budget is a concept that flew out the window a while ago.
 
Yes, but you are missing the 5mm bits, also the big 35mm bit for the hinges. And most important; two pieces of #496938 (+ knobs) to align the rail and couple multiple LR32 rails.

Then you also need a place to store it.

No, I didn't buy the set for the clamps either, but hey; more clamps more fun.
 
Ok im kind of confused. Is the 496938 required for repeated positioning of the rail? Or just for joining rails together?

I need to reference the edge and end of each panel.

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sheperd80 said:
Ok im kind of confused. Is the 496938 required for repeated positioning of the rail? Or just for joining rails together?

I need to reference the edge and end of each panel.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The 496938 is used to reference the rail to the end of the panel and to work off both ends you need two of them.

And is used to join two holey rails to maintain the hole spacing.
 
The 583290 set has all of the LR32 parts included.  However, you will need a few more items to use with that set. 

What you need in addition to the 583290 LR32 set, you will need the following:
-Festool OF 1010 or OF 1400 router.

-One or more of the "holey" guide rail(s), 496939 or 491622.  If you are connecting rails you will also need two guide rail connectors 482107.  You can use your Festool TS55 or TS75 saws on these rail, they work just like any other Festool guide rails.

-Two Festool clamps to clamp the guide rail down (or any brand F style clamp that will fit the guide rails).  The Festool clamps are the quick clamp 491594, and the screw clamps 489570 or 489571.

-Router bits.  These don't have to be Festool bits, any brand will work.  The most common Festool bits used are the two 5mm bits, 491066 is a brad point bit, the 491064 that is spear point for through holes, and if you want to drill 35mm hinge cup holes, the 491077.   

 
Brice Burrell said:
The 583290 set has all of the LR32 parts included.  However, you will need a few more items to use with that set. 

What you need in addition to the 583290 LR32 set, you will need the following:
-Festool OF 1010 or OF 1400 router.

-One or more of the "holey" guide rail(s), 496939 or 491622.  If you are connecting rails you will also need two guide rail connectors 482107.  You can use your Festool TS55 or TS75 saws on these rail, they work just like any other Festool guide rails.

-Two Festool clamps to clamp the guide rail down (or any brand F style clamp that will fit the guide rails).  The Festool clamps are the quick clamp 491594, and the screw clamps 489570 or 489571.

-Router bits.  These don't have to be Festool bits, any brand will work.  The most common Festool bits used are the two 5mm bits, 491066 is a brad point bit, the 491064 that is spear point for through holes, and if you want to drill 35mm hinge cup holes, the 491077. 
Click to expand...
Im ordering the lr32 small set, two 5mm brad point bits, and a holey rail. I have an OF1010 and 2 quick clamps. I prefer boring hinges with a drill so i think ill stick with that method for now. Its easy enough to transfer the line boring locations accurately and use a drilling jig.

Now my challenge will be sizing my panels. I need the right height so the lr32 is reversible, and the right width so that drawer glide holes will line up to front and back line boring.

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you'll need 2 of the 485758 unless you have another method of insuring you get the 37mm set back.

If you add up all the items you will need individually, it would be better to just buy the LR 32 kit
 
jobsworth said:
you'll need 2 of the 485758 unless you have another method of insuring you get the 37mm set back.

If you add up all the items you will need individually, it would be better to just buy the LR 32 kit
Click to expand...

Won’t have to. They’re included in the 583290 package. I assembled my kit this way and as stated before, would have spent less buying the LR 32 kit.  I was fine with just drilling the 5mm holes until I wanted to drill the hinge recess holes and have the systainer for storage storage.
 
There seems to be some confusion over whats needed and whats included.

Im at $450 for the small set i linked above (which is confirmed to include router base, 2 longitudunal stops, 2 edge stops, and the centering mandrel) plus a guide rail, and a 5mm bit. I have a spare systainer and clamps already. This is all i need. I dont want more clamps, the hinge bit or another systainer.

If i buy the systainer set and a rail its $700.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 
sheperd80 said:
There seems to be some confusion over whats needed and whats included.

Im at $450 for the small set i linked above (which is confirmed to include router base, 2 longitudunal stops, 2 edge stops, and the centering mandrel) plus a guide rail, and a 5mm bit. I have a spare systainer and clamps already. This is all i need. I dont want more clamps, the hinge bit or another systainer.

If i buy the systainer set and a rail its $700.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You are fine mate. This is what I did.

I bought the base plate with mandrel and had a hole rail already. I bought it and a 20mm but for making my own MFT tops. I then bought the 5mm bit later and it does everything I need. Sounds like you are in the same boat!

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Oh wow, didn't see (2x) of #496938 was included in #583290. Most of the pictures don't show it either. But it does change the calculation a bit yes. Having said that I'm still happy with the Systainer. Not sure why you would bother with doing the hinges separately. If you position the first row correct, you can use that for the hinges.
 
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