LR32 and help with drawer slide position

[Julie]

New to woodworking and system 32.
I am starting with a few cabinets for the shop. Drawers will all be on sys32 holes so I can rearrange as necessary.
There is certainly a consensus on the 37mm offset for the front of the cabinet part of the slide.

Where did the extra 2mm come from? I can't find an explanation.

As for the drawer part of the slide I haven't found any explanation or consensus about locating the front. I have found illustrations of installation that show flush with the drawer front, 2mm gap like the cabinet and 5mm back from the drawer front.
Can someone point me toward an explanation?

I am building my drawers with the front of the drawer box being the front of the drawer and inset into frame-less cabinets. I am hoping that using a jig to put slide holes in the drawers I can have everything just work.
Is this a bad idea?
Why does everyone seem to use a false front for drawers?

Thanks.

 

[fshanno]

People use false fronts for several reasons.

You can get any look you want in front without spending a lot of money on the drawer box material. 

You can use any joinery method you want for the drawers because it will be hidden in front.  Especially if you use pocket holes.

They hide the gap between the drawer sides and the case and gap between the tops and bottoms of the drawer boxes.

You mount your slides and drawers and then the applied fronts last.  You attach the bottom one first and then set the next and next and next on top using shims to provide the desired reveal between them.  You're applied fronts will be close to perfect covering any inaccuracies in mounting the slides.

 

[afish]

Plus when you have doors and drawers such as most kitchens everything flushes out. Sure you can do inset doors but its rare unless its more high end furniture.  You also dont see the edge or edge banding of the carcass.  As far as the 2mm set back I think thats to make sure the slide doesnt cause any issues with the drawer sticking out proud.  Especially with self closing drawers, it ensures the drawer is always being slightly pulled closed. 

 

[Coen]

There is all kinds of weird stuff on the internet. Just follow the instruction from the drawer / hinge manufacturer. Blum I mean.

 

[Tinker]

Plus you can make all of your drawers the same size. You can figure the drawer with the lowest sides and match all drawers to that. You can the match the fronts according to the spaces. If you do it that way, you can save a lot of time by making fewer set ups.
Tinker

 

[fshanno]

Another 2 cents worth.

I only use my LR32 one wall cabinets and pantry units.  I don't bother with it for base cabinets.

For frameless all drawer base cabinets I usually mount the slides to the case sides before I assemble the case.  I use story boards to locate the slide and use a centering bit to locate the screws.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

The slides mounting hole is 35mm back and is typically recessed 2mm thus the 37mm.

With regards to the drawers, if it’s flush with the front of the cabinet, then it depends on how far back the hole is on the slide, see the slides diagram, plus the 2mm the slide itself is recessed into the cabinet.

I’ve seen some people use BB for drawer boxes with actual hardwood fronts and others all BB and attaching hardwood to the front. The only difference I can think of is with false fronts, you can install some cams to move the fronts up/down and side/side to adjust the reveals between drawers ... if you use your approach it would seem impossible to adjust with side mounts and not sure if possible with undermounts or as much as desired.

 

[Packard]

On the same subject, if you are using pre-drilled holes for the 32mm system, how do you locate the position of the hinges so that they correspond with the existing holes?

 

[sancho57]

[member=40122]Julie[/member]

Its in the engineering of the system. The 5mm holes on the slides automatically will give your slides a 2mm set back from the front of the cabinet. Im assuming bc when you open and close the drawer you will need that tolerance so the drawers will not interfere with the opening and closing of the drawer itself.

They do have drawer fronts integrated with the drawer the frawer fronts are rabitted and attached usually be blind dove tails. However they are uncommon today as most cabinets are mass produced and made by CNC, this will give you a idea of what Im talking about
https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/rabbeted-half-blind-dovetail-drawers

 

[Bugsysiegals]

If you've not already, I'd highly recommend checking out www.davelers.com. 

I put together a feature matrix, based on the info found on the site above, in order to better understand the pro's and con's of each frame-less cabinet style.  If I've made any errors please let me know...

View attachment 1

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Like you, I wanted to be able to re-arrange cabinet drawers but my preferred cabinet style, Full Overlay, had several issues for me including ...

Unbalanced start holes, no center indexing drawer boxes, different drawer box face reveals, smaller bottom drawer boxes, wasted cabinet space, etc.  Some of these setups make it impossible to re-arrange drawers but more importantly, things aren't consistent. 

I've large gaps of time between wood working time so I need something that's easy to remember and doesn't take a day of refreshing my memory.  I also like to get in a rhythm and batch out a process; however, when things aren't the same, but you batch them out the same, you've just messed things up which happens to me.  For this reason, I chose Half Overlay for it's consistency and simplicity.

Maybe someday when I've more experience and am not making so many mistakes i'll try the Full Overlay cabinets.  And if I need rearrange-able, I'll make them with a single door and pull out shelving which can be adjusted as needed.

Good luck with your cabinets and hope this helps rather than making things more confusing...