Anyone else have problems with the shelf-pin holes on the LR32 system lining up? I seem to always have one row of holes that is 1 or 2mm out of alignment. I'm making sure my side panels are divisible by 32mm and always orientated from the same end on each panel (top or bottom). I've checked the holes on my LR32 track and they seem to all be within a few thousandths of an inch. The stops are always "16 up and out." I have no idea what is going on so it's frustrating. Problematic on 300mm upper cabinets when your shelf-pin holes don't line up. Just enough to make a wobble in the shelf.
LR32 hole system problems with holes lining up
- Thread starter Motor
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Rick Herrick
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Its good you are ensuring your total panel length is equally divisibly by 32. You are using both of the stops, with 16 up and out? I made sure that once those were installed that the track laid on the board with absolutely no play. I think by doing this, you can flip the panel either way and you 'should' have no issues. In my case, one stop was easily seen but the other one (because track is longer than panel) is not seen. Make sure you have that one correct, with the 16 up and out correct. Hopefully others will have something you can check
Thank you! Yes I have been making sure there is no play between the stop and the panel each and every time with the "16-up-and-out" at each end with no exceptions. I'm wondering if there is a flaw with one of the holes on the track, or on the block itself. Whatever the problem is, it's consistent for every project with one row of holes off by 1-2mm.Rick Herrick said:
Somethings not adding up. There is an error somewhere. Your first post said 300mm uppers. Im assuming thats depth. How tall are the gables in question? Are you using both end stops at the same time? If not, put both end stops on the rail and make sure the gable is snug between the two stops. What router? is there any play in either the router or router to plate connection? I had this once a bushing in the router that guides it along the shaft had loosened and was allowing just a couple mm of play and it took me a couple panels to notice. I know you said everything is square but take to gables and put them on top of one another and match up all the edges flush. Now take the top one only and flip it and rotate it every possible way and check all the edges to one another each time if the panels are perfect they should line up perfectly each time.
Youre exactly right. Something is not adding up. I'm an experienced builder and I cant figure it out. I assure you my pieces are square. I'm using a Hammer K3 cabinet saw and it's always within .5mm tolerances so if one gable is lying on top of the other it's dead-on. I've had the problem with a number of various lengths of cabinet sides. Yes 300 mm is the depth. I'm going to make a sample gable and play with it and try and figure out where the problem lies. I'm using either the OF1010 or OF1400 with the LR32 plate and use the mandrill to centre everything. When you mention bushing is that on the plate where the spring and tab are located?afish said:
Panel length doesn't have to be divisible by 32mm. It's better to align the rail from the same end anyway. If panel length exceeds rail length just position the rail for the next part by leaving the router 'locked' in the last hole of the previous rail position.
I have never had any issues with it resulting in whobbling shelves. The only issue I had recently was a modification to an existing panel that used 32.03 mm spacing between existing holes...
I have never had any issues with it resulting in whobbling shelves. The only issue I had recently was a modification to an existing panel that used 32.03 mm spacing between existing holes...
Correct the panel does not NEED to be 32mm inc. but if he is assuming it is and its off a bit then issues can happen. Mounting both stops on the rail and checking the panel fits snugly between the two stops checks a few things all at once. If his panel is loose or to tight then either there is a problem with his stops or the panel. Until the panels are verified against one another then I dont assume anything is square. Things happen, stuff gets bumped, blades get tilted, things just need adjusting from time to time. The bushing I was talking about was inside the router (non festool) the screw that held it got loose and allowed a little slop on the shaft. If everything is tight with the router and lr32 plate its somewhere else and you should be good. I was not questioning your experience by asking you to verify everything was square. It happens to the best of us and that is the most logical answer for the problem you are describing.
He did say he was pulling from the same end so I dont think thats an issue. If his panels are divisible by 32 and arnt to long to fit on the rail, I always used both stops (top and bottom) to minimize any possible movement. This also verifies that 32mm is the same on whatever tape you are using and what Festool considers 32mm its not always exactly the same. It doesnt hurt anything having both end stops on there and just provides another level of assurance. Make sure your base plate is also calibrated to the adjustable edge stops (not end stops) there is a little notch you have to line up with the the stop zeroed and both stops are set exactly the same distance (37mm typically) This shouldn't really cause your issue unless its grossly off but just throwing it out there as long as we are talking calibration.
Motor said:
I missed this response since it was all blended together. To check the router/base etc. just mount the router to the base and place the base on the rail and lock it in a rail hole. then tist, turn and push in all directions and feel for any slop. If there is anything loose you should be able to feel it. There is a couple screws to make sure the base is shug to the rail also. Another possible silly question is, Was the shelf itself possibly warped? That could give the same effect as misaligned holes. Just throwing that out there.
You did mention the holes where off by 1 to 2 mm and also that everything was cut to within .5 mm of square. If the panels are .5mm out and flipped in a way that would double the error then there's 1mm right there. I know some have commented to make sure everything is clamped but I have had the opposite experience I almost never clamp the rail unless it is some expensive material or im doing a longer gable then the rail I have and I never had an issue with the rail moving. I used a system of bench dogs with the end stops to hold the rail on one side and one end and it never moved as long as you were pushing against the side with the dog and moving the router away from the end with the stop. Using 2 end stops is even better. but rail never moved on me.
Thanks for the response. I will try the twist and shout drill with the router base. The misaligned holes are noticeably off when checked with a metric tape measure. Like I said if there are two panels that go together it seems like there is often one row of holes (out of four) that is hooped. Possibly driver error I suppose but I will check the bushings and so on. I religiously clamp the track onto the panel but I have been using the screw clamps that come with the LR32 kit. Possibly they are moving during the tightening process. I bought a Festool Rapid clamp that should alleviate any movement. I'm going to experiment shortly with some panels and see if I can find out what is happening and report back. I'm also going to check the spacing on all the holes on the track to make sure I didn't get a bum track. So far no one else seems to have the same problem except for the fellow with a worn bushing.afish said:
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