lr32 rail question

[hitandruntz]

I just got my Lr32 and have a 55" holey rail for it. I know I will eventually need a 95" one as well. I was wondering if anyone tried to  connect two 55" holey rails and got it to work keeping the 32mm spacing. the center of the first hole from the edge is 13mm. so my first guess is no that it wont work, but maybe with a proper spacer in between the rails to bring the spacing back to 32mm. If I had the cash I would just buy it but I'm  in the process of switching over to all festool and I need to pick and choose my battles wisely and the 55" is a lot cheaper than the 95". I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of this but I'm curious if anyone has tried it.

any advise is appreciated. thanks  -John

 

[peter halle]

When you get ready there are connectors that do what you want.

peter

 

[duburban]

I just got my Lr32 and have a 55" holey rail for it. I know I will eventually need a 95" one as well. I was wondering if anyone tried to  connect two 55" holey rails and got it to work keeping the 32mm spacing. the center of the first hole from the edge is 13mm. so my first guess is no that it wont work, but maybe with a proper spacer in between the rails to bring the spacing back to 32mm. If I had the cash I would just buy it but I'm  in the process of switching over to all festool and I need to pick and choose my battles wisely and the 55" is a lot cheaper than the 95". I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of this but I'm curious if anyone has tried it.

any advise is appreciated. thanks  -John

if it were me i'd get the 95" "holy" rail. your talking about a process that requires some serious precision so why not minimize your chances for error. its a good track for the saws as well.

 

[hitandruntz]

Thanks Peter. I kind of dont get why the 95" rail is $320 and the 55" is $120. you can buy 2, 55" rails and the connectors  and pocket the extra $70. why is the 95" rail so more $ per inch?

 

[Wooden Skye]

I have thought about the LR32, and this has always been a question I have had.  Why don't they make the long holy rail longer?  I mean if you are buying a long rail that you could use for the TS saw, the 95" holy rail would be useless for ripping.  Unless if I am missing something.  After you do the holes along the 55" rail, is there an indexing pin you could insert into the rail to then reposition the rail for additional holes to be drilled.  I have been using the kreg shelf pin jig and after you drill the holes, you then stick the indexing pin in a previously drilled hole to drill the next set of holes.

 

[tbellemare]

If you want to use mulitple LR 32 guide rails in tandem, the current LR 32 Connector, 496938, has a side that has "16" embossed on it. That side "up" can easily be used to "space" two LR 32 Guide Rails.

If you have only one LR 32 Guide Rail and want to reach farther, you can always save the edge offset setting and use the bit as an index to "leap frog" that Guide Rail. Just use the last hole from the previous set up as the first hole of the subsequent set up while moving the Guide Rail down...

'Ever try to get a 10' guide Rail to the end user in one, (straight), piece?

Tom

 

[hitandruntz]

I'm glad i asked this. I did think about indexing but using the bit plunged into the last hole never occurred to me. i will most likely eventually buy the 55" and the connector for it but in the mean time ill be faking it with this little gem.

 

[ccarrolladams]

I'm glad i asked this. I did think about indexing but using the bit plunged into the last hole never occurred to me. i will most likely eventually buy the 55" and the connector for it but in the mean time ill be faking it with this little gem.

Yes, I own a 95" (2424mm) Holy rail because I make a whole lot of pantry cabinets.

However, I own several 55" (1400mm) Holy rails and the connectors. Remember at you still need 2 of the ordinary rail connectors cat 482 107. That cat number is for a single connector, so you will need to buy 2 of them. The LR 32 rail connector Tom mentioned above is used to set the spacing of the holes. Then after the normal connectors are fastened, the LR 32 connectors are removed from the splice and moved to the ends to serve as stops to correctly position the holes relative to the end of the part.

Trust me, a whole lot of us made good money using home-made spacers before Festool introduced the formal LR 32 connectors. Connecting two Holy rails is not difficult. Just remember that the gap between the two rails will be wider that when connecting rails for sawing.

 

[hitandruntz]

Appreciate all the help guys. I love this site, what a great resource. [thumbs up]

However, I own several 55" (1400mm) Holy rails and the connectors. Remember at you still need 2 of the ordinary rail connectors cat 482 107. That cat number is for a single connector, so you will need to buy 2 of them. The LR 32 rail connector Tom mentioned above is used to set the spacing of the holes. Then after the normal connectors are fastened, the LR 32 connectors are removed from the splice and moved to the ends to serve as stops to correctly position the holes relative to the end of the part.

Thanks for clarifying that cause i was thinking something different.

 

[Trans former]

the whole moving the rail along and re-locating business is a bit of a pain, joining two together and undoing them again for a different set is up also annoying.
what we all want is festool to make is the 2700 rail with holes in it, not 2424 which as you are saying is useless for ripping sheets.

so if you are out there Mr Festool please can we all have a 2700 holy rail, may as well do the 800 too. thanks

anybody agree!?

 

[Sean7a]

Thanks Peter. I kind of dont get why the 95" rail is $320 and the 55" is $120. you can buy 2, 55" rails and the connectors  and pocket the extra $70. why is the 95" rail so more $ per inch?

Convenience.  It's valuable to you, Festool knows it.  Saves you time and makes you $.  Check out Carol's comments though.....

 

[sancho57]

What Tom said, look at the end stops in the LR 32 kit. on the side that has 16 on it you'll see a = sign. when you connect 2 holy rails together ensure you can see the = sign in between the 2 rails and your good.

Connected the 2 rails together many times no issues

 

[hitandruntz]

on the side that has 16 on it you'll see a = sign. when you connect 2 holy rails together ensure you can see the = sign in between the 2 rails and your good.

Thanks Sancho for clarifying that, I think that was the final missing link for me. I'm good to go now. the Lr32 worked like a charm first time out no mistakes. I made sure I measured the drawer slides  and laid out the back holes so I can use the 5mm cab screws. Im so thrilled to have learned about the 32mm system. Ive built hundreds of cabinets and I was quicker building  the boxes (because I didnt lay out and drill for 32mm system, adj. shelves, and hardware) but I crushed the back end of the build because everything else is done(the hinge holes, drawer glide holes and all the math for drawer and door sizes is all done). I always struggled mounting the drawer hardware and drawer fronts. not not more! ;D
If anyone isnt that familiar with it than spend a little time and study this website on 32mm construction.http://www.cabsystems.com/KISSII/KIIrivDe-mail.pdf