Make a auxiliary fence for your Kapex

erock

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Apr 29, 2010
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So in the attempt to return some of the information I have gathered from the FOG I wanted to try to start producing some videos.

Here is a video of how I made an auxiliary fence for my Kapex.  I recall a member a few weeks back wanting to know how to go about this,

I wish I had the video available at the time, but at any rate.  Here it goes. 

Also, I loaded a two part video on how to go about making a zero clearance insert for the Kapex.  This is the follow up video of that series.

Thanks for watching and I  hope it helps someone out.



Eric
 
Thanks, and I went and watched your other video's too.  Hope you don't mind, I just linked the cutting plywood on a post moments ago.
 
Blackberry said:
Thanks, and I went and watched your other video's too.  Hope you don't mind, I just linked the cutting plywood on a post moments ago.

I don't mind at all.  That's why they are available.  Thanks for watching.

Eric
 
Wooden Skye said:
Erock

What happened to the video for the zero clearance for the Kapex?

I'm not sure what you mean?

I made a video for a zero clearance insert and a auxiliary fence for the Kapex.  Both are up and running on youtube.

Eric
 
You had a link to both videos, at least I thought you did, now I see just the auxiliary fence link. 
 
You can disregard my previous I found it what I was looking for.  Sorry for the confusion
 
zero clearance insert part 1



zero clearance insert part 2



I had the links in a different post that Peter started about tool videos.

Eric

 
Eric,

Great videos!! [thumbs up] Thanks for posting...I subscribed to your channel.  Always like to see Festool in action.  For hearing protection I find the little foam plugs to be the best -- they seem to have the best rating for noise reduction, they are cheap and I also find that they keep me cooler when working -- the muffs are too warm for my liking. 

Thanks also for showing the upside down jigsaw technique.  Pretty cool.

Scot
 
Thanks man!! Nice work!

This set up would be nice when cutting self returns on small moldings like cove and shoe etc. Invevitably those little pieces always end up in a place across the room, in my pile below or in my face!! I got do this set up for my Kapex, like the zeo clearance but once you bevel with it, it's not a ZCI anymore!

One thing is for sure, I am getting far too much tear-out on my cuts. I have to sand the edges on almost all my panel molding for my most recent project. I sort of blame it on the 60 tooth blade. I have always been happier with high tooth count blades.

PS- Hands a little close to that blade in a couple shots. ; )
 
PS- Hands a little close to that blade in a couple shots. ; )
[/quote]

  I think it was the angle of the camera that made them seem close.  Or my poor lighting. 

I need too get my blade sharpened.  I know what will help with some tear out.

Good point with the bevel cuts messing up the ZCI.  Luckily I don't make a bunch of them.

Eric
 
Is it me or is the thickness the ZCI needs to be 1/4 inch? I am reading just about dead-on 1/4 inch. Which begs the question, why wouldn't I just get some quarter inch stock? Either way, I just used the plastic Kapex insert as a spacer to set up my table saw to cut some material to exact thickness. Just curious if you tried 1/4 inch stock?

I am also thinking if fit it perfectly and I put a 1 degree backcut on this thing I can get it to fit in tight enough to just use tape or something to hold it in there for quick removal. Probably not but just thinking out loud.
 
skids said:
Is it me or is the thickness the ZCI needs to be 1/4 inch? I am reading just about dead-on 1/4 inch. Which begs the question, why wouldn't I just get some quarter inch stock? Either way, I just used the plastic Kapex insert as a spacer to set up my table saw to cut some material to exact thickness. Just curious if you tried 1/4 inch stock?

I am also thinking if fit it perfectly and I put a 1 degree backcut on this thing I can get it to fit in tight enough to just use tape or something to hold it in there for quick removal. Probably not but just thinking out loud.

No, I didn't look into 1/4 inch stock.  I would be surprised if it was 1/4, just because everything else Festool is in metric.  But I have know to be wrong

on a couple things.  [tongue]

I have my ZCI below the bed just a hair in case the wood I used wanted to swell up a little.  I won't have to worry about it running

proud of the bed. 

The beautiful thing about wood working is there are many different ways to achieve the same outcome.  For me, it was running a board through my

thickness planer.  For you,  using the table saw.  Which is a great way to make the ZCI, thanks for bringing that up.  In case a guys doesn't have

a planer he could use your method to achieve the save results.  [wink]

Eric
 
erock said:
skids said:
Is it me or is the thickness the ZCI needs to be 1/4 inch? I am reading just about dead-on 1/4 inch. Which begs the question, why wouldn't I just get some quarter inch stock? Either way, I just used the plastic Kapex insert as a spacer to set up my table saw to cut some material to exact thickness. Just curious if you tried 1/4 inch stock?

I am also thinking if fit it perfectly and I put a 1 degree backcut on this thing I can get it to fit in tight enough to just use tape or something to hold it in there for quick removal. Probably not but just thinking out loud.

No, I didn't look into 1/4 inch stock.   I would be surprised if it was 1/4, just because everything else Festool is in metric.   But I have know to be wrong

on a couple things.   [tongue]

I have my ZCI below the bed just a hair in case the wood I used wanted to swell up a little.  I won't have to worry about it running

proud of the bed. 

The beautiful thing about wood working is there are many different ways to achieve the same outcome.  For me, it was running a board through my

thickness planer.  For you,  using the table saw.  Which is a great way to make the ZCI, thanks for bringing that up.  In case a guys doesn't have

a planer he could use your method to achieve the save results.   [wink]

Eric

I wish I had a thickness planer! Your shop is an inspiration!

Someday, but for now I will just thin out some material on the TS. This is an excuse to get me some nice Forstners though.  [wink]
 
I watched your ZCI video, good job with that.  Would you mind posting those measurements for its size and location of the screws? 

I like my auxiliary fence but I don't like how it effects DC and limits/stops the use of the Kapex clamp.  I built mine from 3/4 MDF which prevents the clamp from working at all, next one will be 1/2" which would allow the clamp at one position.  The clamp is my favorite feature on my Kapex.
 
Kevin Stricker said:
I watched your ZCI video, good job with that.  Would you mind posting those measurements for its size and location of the screws? 

I like my auxiliary fence but I don't like how it effects DC and limits/stops the use of the Kapex clamp.  I built mine from 3/4 MDF which prevents the clamp from working at all, next one will be 1/2" which would allow the clamp at one position.  The clamp is my favorite feature on my Kapex.

Hey Kevin

what I did was use the fence from the Kapex as a template.  Trace around the fence to get the exact profile for the left

and right side  and use it to mark the holes.

I had a shown a diagram of the fence with measurements.  At the beginning of the video around the 50 second mark you will see the dry eraser board

with the diagram.  Hope this helps.

Thanks for watching!

Eric
 
If you have a zero clearance fence and want to to an angled cut would you have to remove it?
 
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