Making a Marking Jig to use with the Domino

Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
129
Although I have the cross stops for my DF500, I found that marking my panels with a jig gave me greater accuracy, speed and consistency on builds. After still using it a year later, I decided to share how I made this simple jig.

How to make the MultiMark Jig
 
Nice idea but I see some room for improvement. You first talk about the importance of things being parallell and straight and then try to reference this whole thing to a narrow edge at around 1:44 where it's a struggle to keep it at 90 degrees...

If I found a need for such a layout jig I would do it as this picture. A more slick and lighter variant with movable layout markers and easy to reference both to a flat surface and a standing up surface. Routed in tape measure to easily set the stops at certain positions, and an end stop (light brown) at one (or both) shortside for referencing an edge.

[attachimg=1]

 

Attachments

  • domino layout jig.JPG
    domino layout jig.JPG
    113.2 KB · Views: 1,307
Very nice jig!

I looked for the links to receive the plans for the jig but was unable to locate them. I'm sure they were in plain sight, but I still missed them. Can you post the link separately for reference?

Again, very nice and looks like it will be used by me quite a bit going forward.

 
I'd go with T-ruler style jig with rectangular notches, if I did not care for adjustability.
 
Ola C said:
Nice idea but I see some room for improvement. You first talk about the importance of things being parallell and straight and then try to reference this whole thing to a narrow edge at around 1:44 where it's a struggle to keep it at 90 degrees...

If I found a need for such a layout jig I would do it as this picture. A more slick and lighter variant with movable layout markers and easy to reference both to a flat surface and a standing up surface. Routed in tape measure to easily set the stops at certain positions, and an end stop (light brown) at one (or both) shortside for referencing an edge.

[attachimg=1]

That's pretty impressive. The idea with my jig was to keep construction as simple as possible while still functional. Marking edges looks dicey but it's still very accurate as the potential for pivoting off line is quite narrow. I've been using this design for about two years now and have not run into alignment issues.
 
salbrechtnh said:
Very nice jig!

I looked for the links to receive the plans for the jig but was unable to locate them. I'm sure they were in plain sight, but I still missed them. Can you post the link separately for reference?

Again, very nice and looks like it will be used by me quite a bit going forward.

[member=11820]salbrechtnh[/member] link to my website for the plans
 
cpw said:
I find the Woodpecker story stick with the standard tabs to be very useful for Domino layout; though it is more expensive than plywood offcuts it is more adjustable.  Generally, I only use the first 32" section, but it is nice to know the rest are there in case they are needed.
https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-story-stick-pro-96.html

Oh wow that's really impressive! Quite the price tag though  [big grin]
 
Mini Me said:
A length of T track and some sliding stops?

The idea was to have something easy to make and from readily available materials in most peoples shops. T-track would be great for adjustability though.
 
HA! There must be definitely more than one way to skin something.

I find the simplest and quickest marking jig is...eyeballing, since I by default use the tight setting on one edge, and wider setting on the mating piece EXCEPT for the first alignment mortise which is cut in the tight setting on BOTH pieces. In most of the cases (not for narrow pieces), the first alignment mortises can be cut using the paddles for registration with no pencil lines needed there.

The "eyeballing jig" does have one unexpected advantage: When I dry fit, if I mix up a mating piece, it often shows up quickly because lines free drawn at "rough" spacing on the boards rarely line up identically on different pieces, nor do the mortises so milled.

The use of tight-wide settings prevents straining my eyes, too, as there's no need to be dead-on in lining up the machine (scribed line on the sight gauge) with the pencil lines. The wide mortises will take care of any minor discrepancies. To me, that's design brilliance, compared to other joinery tools that demand exact precision.
 

Attachments

  • DF500 eyeballing.JPG
    DF500 eyeballing.JPG
    64.6 KB · Views: 270
ChuckS said:
HA! There must be definitely more than one way to skin something.

I find the simplest and quickest marking jig is...eyeballing, since I by default use the tight setting on one edge, and wider setting on the mating piece EXCEPT for the first alignment mortise which is cut in the tight setting on BOTH pieces. In most of the cases (not for narrow pieces), the first alignment mortises can be cut using the paddles for registration with no pencil lines needed there.

The "eyeballing jig" does have one unexpected advantage: When I dry fit, if I mix up a mating piece, it often shows up quickly because lines free drawn at "rough" spacing on the boards rarely line up identically on different pieces, nor do the mortises so milled.

The use of tight-wide settings prevents straining my eyes, too, as there's no need to be dead-on in lining up the machine (scribed line on the sight gauge) with the pencil lines. The wide mortises will take care of any minor discrepancies. To me, that's design brilliance, compared to other joinery tools that demand exact precision.

The oldest jig there is!
 
Back
Top