I bought a 1016 from HD. I loved it! That is until I found that it had runout (also called "Blade Wobble"). So I exchanged it for another 1016. But it had the same runout! So I returned it too. Right now, I'm turned off by the 1016.
There are a lot of people on the JLC forum that are discussing this saw. Many people like it. Unfortunately a pretty good number also have the runout issue.
To test for it, place a board on the turntable and do a plunge cut about 1/8" into the wood to create a slot. Turn off the saw and drop the blade into the slot. Now look the left and right of the blade. You should see the blade scraping the cut on both sides. If you see a gap on one side, you have runout (blade wobble).
Other symptoms are vibration when running, especially with heavier blades - like a Forrest Chopmaster. Also, you'll see some gouging on the face of the cut.
This last weekend, I repeated the "blade wobble" test on two Kapex - an older one at a dealer and a demo unit that the Festool rep had at Seattle Woodcraft. Both had NO runout. When I dropped the blade into the slot, it scraped both sides.
Spending $1300 for a saw is a tough decision, but I'm thinking about getting the Kapex. It's noisier than the 1016 and the turntable isn't as smooth. And I like the 1016's miter lock mechanism and the horizontal handle better than the Kapex. The Kapex does have one great feature - no runout. I can overlook lots of things, but I can't ignore bad cuts. Is the 1016 a good deal if I can't get a good cut? Is the Kapex too expensive if it cuts well? YMMV.
Regards,
Dan.
P.s., If you have an LS1016 and a SawHelper miter saw stand, you might want to look at a quick description (with pics) of how I created a simple custom table top for my SawHelper miter saw stand to use with my 1016. (Of course, this was BEFORE I returned it.) I posted this on talkFestool:
http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/non-festool-power-tools/2493-new-top-sawhelper-stand.html and JLC Online:
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49400.