Makita LS1019L miter saw mini review

[lwoirhaye]

The issue WW experienced was that the saw blade wasn't parallel to the slides.  So even if you adjusted the blade (like you described) so it was exactly 90 degrees to the fence, when you pulled the blade back, the blade slides out in a skewed fashion.  This is a manufacturing defect, not something that you can adjust for.

I think it's what is called "heeling" in a table saw.

 

[Arthur444]

I also bought the Makita LS1019L to replace my 13 month old Kapex that burnt out. I much prefer the ergonomics on the Makita. The horizontal handle and the blade lock can be squeezed at the same time feels better. I also really like that the guard is on the outside of the blade housing so you can hold it up with your thumb if need be. I hate the guard on the Kapex, it would catch on your piece and lift up while cutting if your not careful. The way you have to twist your wrist on the Kapex to push the top safety switch is carpal tunnel stupidity. The Makita has a 15 amp motor compared to 13 amp on the Kapex. I personally don't see much of a difference in dust collection. I use a Fein dust extractor that is dedicated to the saw and it seems to work well in my small shop. The two sided laser is useful and the line is a little finer then the Makita but again the guard on the Kapex has really small slots where the laser shows through and as soon as the guard gets dirty you can't see the laser. The Makita guard has slots about 1/4"x 2" so you can see the laser better and the on off switch is placed in a better position. If the two saws were priced competitively you could give advantage to either one depending on your preferences but with the Kapex costing 3 times as much no way is the extra cost justified. Really the Kapex isn't worth more 650$.  My Kapex basically had the entire motor and gear housing replaced, if anyone is in the southern Wisconsin area and wants what is essentially a new Kapex for 1100$ I'll be listing it on Craigslist today.

 

[Oldwood]

I have found the blade not perfectly parellel to the slides to be a common issue on almost all scms. It’s the first thing I look for. I clamp a wide blade board to the saw. It does not matter the miter angle. With thread pushed all the way back I do,a plunge cut and with the blade still running I lift the blade up and pull it all the way out without cutting. Than I plunge down and mate the cuts. If the do not perfectly line up than the blade is not parellel to the slides. Most saws have no adjustment to fix if the blade is not parellel to the slides. My ls1019l is perfectly parellel. Dust collection is very good. Power is excellent.  Slides are smooth. Detent override. Easy to use safety and one can hold the blade guard up with the thumb. Flat table. It’s a great saw.

Great trick for checking to see if the saw blade is aligned to the travel. Thanks for that. I returned my first saw the second one was better but still not acceptable. I am involved in a discussion with Makita service to see if this is something they can resolve or if I need to look for another brand of saw.

 

[duburban]

Im getting the sense that some of these makita saws are working and some not. Do we think this is related to early vs late or current production batches or across the board.

This feedback is critical, just trying to summarize the consensus

 

[glass1]

I do believe if one loosens the 2 Allen screws that hold the front bar to the rails the rails can be pushed left or right and held in position when retightening.

 

[Oldwood]

I had a talk with the service department in Vancouver and he sent out some inquiries within the company and it looks like they are aware of the problem and will be dealing with it. The service rep went through a few saws they had in stock and he said most had the issue to some degree and he did find one that was good.

They have a 10" precision ground plate they mount in place of the blade then put a square against the fence and the plate then draw the saw head forward. 

I talked with the store I bought the saw from and they will let me check a few saws to see if I can find one within reasonable tolerances. I like the saw and am willing to do some work to find one that will work for me.

We will have to wait to see what they do about this but I think something will be done shortly.

 

[glass1]

Just loosens the 2 screws that attach the front bar to the rails than the bars can be adjusted til the blade is parellel and hold and retighten. May take some trial and error.

 

[Josh F]

Just loosens the 2 screws that attach the front bar to the rails than the bars can be adjusted til the blade is parellel and hold and retighten. May take some trial and error.

I created I account here just to say. I had the same problem with the saw. Just got it yesterday. I did what was mentioned above and now it cuts perfect. The rails are not co planar to each other and just a little tweak and they are perfect.

  On a side note I love festool, have a half dozen of their tools. I just couldn’t justify spending almost 1500 on a scms, when my buddies motor burnt out on his winthin the first 3 months.

 

[Oldwood]

Just loosens the 2 screws that attach the front bar to the rails than the bars can be adjusted til the blade is parellel and hold and retighten. May take some trial and error.

I created I account here just to say. I had the same problem with the saw. Just got it yesterday. I did what was mentioned above and now it cuts perfect. The rails are not co planar to each other and just a little tweak and they are perfect.

  On a side note I love festool, have a half dozen of their tools. I just couldn’t justify spending almost 1500 on a scms, when my buddies motor burnt out on his winthin the first 3 months.

Josh or Glass could you tell me on the attached diagram are you talking about part #169?

TIA

 

[Josh F]

Yes part 169, I loosened the two Allen screws. Then slid a piece of 3/4 cedar in between the rails. I pushed lightly on it and relighted the Allen screws. It took me 3 or 4 tries, before I figured out which way I was moving the rails, and how it effected the blade and cut. We’re talking tweaking the rail maybe a 1/16”, but it transfer a lot down to the blade.

 

[Oldwood]

Thanks Josh

 

[Steven Owen]

I am interested in this saw however I have seen some reviews by individuals such as the wood whisperer that state the saw doesn't stay square co-planer as the blade is slid forward.  The link below is from his video on his Instagram account.  I am wanting to get this saw but not if it can't cut square I am curious what others will say on this subject or makita dealers who carry the saw. 
https://www.instagram.com/p/BX1ZVFMhTzS/?taken-by=woodwhisperer

6:15 in the video

This is unfortunate. Why does it seem so difficult to find an accurate SCMS for a decent price?

This Makita seemed like a contender, but I'm not satisfied with the accuracy issues.

I feel like there would be more side to side deflection with the way the rails are oriented on this vs the typical side by side layout in Kapex and others.

The Dewalt 780 is the only affordable Miter Saw left on the market that doesn’t have this issue.  It’s only a matter of time before Dewalt decides to discontinue the 780.  People would hate on the DW 780 and DW 782 because they clock in at 52 pounds.  The heavy duty simple and clean aluminum rods keep the saw straight and don’t allow it to drift out of alignment. 

The DW 717 is not machined to the same quality level as the DW 780.  You see a lot of 780’s used in Cabinet and Pipe fitting shops because of their accuracy.

 

[timbozi]

Does anyone know of way to check for the parallel issue in store? Without making a cut.

 

[RKA]

A simple 12” square should do.  But if the blade isn’t 90 degrees to the fence it will be harder to tell.

Set the square with the long leg against the blade and short leg against the fence.  Pull the saw out away from the fence.  If a gap emerges or the blade starts to jam against the square, it’s not dialed in right. 

Or you can use a bevel gauge.  If you can set it to match the angle between the fence and blade.  You might need an extra set of hands to hold the saw head Dow and hold back the guard while you tighten the bevel gauge.  Now it doesn’t matter if the miter is set dead at 90.  Then pull the saw away from the fence and observe a gap or binding against the bevel gauge and blade.

 

[Oldwood]

I tried 3 saws they all had the same problem. We did not think it was worth opening more boxes as we felt they would probably be the same. I like the saw and Makita service said they were aware of the problem and will call me when they know if or when it might get resolved.

I decided to wait bit and see what happens. I am not without a saw so I will use my old Hitachi for a while longer.

As RKA has already said hold a square against the blade when it is at the back of it's travel then draw the saw forward while holding the square tight to the back fence. If the blade wants to climb your square hold it on the other side and it should pull way from the square and give a indication of how much it is out.

Hope you can find a good one I think it could be a good saw.

Gerry

 

[Michael Kellough]

The test is simple (checking if bade is parallel to travel)

With the saw at one end of it's travel, place a hard square edge block of wood (heavier the better) gently against the fore and aft teeth on one side of the blade. The block should touch same shaped teeth if the teeth are alternate ground.

Then push/pull the saw to the other position. If the block of wood didn't move you have to do the test on the other side of the blade.

If the block still didn't move the saw tracks and blade are parallel.

 

[glass1]

I own the dewalt dhs790 and have used many, I guarantee that my blade is not perfectly parellel yet it’s a great saw.  The dewalt suffers from this issue just as many others do. Some saws parellel issues are unfixable others are. The dewalt saws tubes can be an be twisted. The Makita LS1019L blade can easily be set parellel. Just loosen the 2 allen set screws in the bar connecting the rails at front. Actually I could explain it but most  on this site simply will not understand how, but it’s easy peasey. One will need a piece of wood todo so. Just pm if I anybody is really interested.

 

[chileodell]

I own the dewalt dhs790 and have used many, I guarantee that my blade is not perfectly parellel yet it’s a great saw.  The dewalt suffers from this issue just as many others do. Some saws parellel issues are unfixable others are. The dewalt saws tubes can be an be twisted. The Makita LS1019L blade can easily be set parellel. Just loosen the 2 allen set screws in the bar connecting the rails at front. Actually I could explain it but most  on this site simply will not understand how, but it’s easy peasey. One will need a piece of wood todo so. Just pm if I anybody is really interested.

HI Glass and Josh F.  I purchased this saw and am trying to adjust the rails. Which way are you inserting the wood to align them? I have tried but am not having any luck.

 

[glass1]

The square or block method only checks for square or angle accuracy, sorry wood whisperer but I am surprised by your lack of understanding. It does not matter the angle that the miter saw is set to to check if the blade is parallel to the rails. Take a 12" wide board put on saw with the saw in fully retracted position make a plunge cut lift head up to fully extended position and plunge down and finish cut. The cuts should perfectly or nearly perfectly line up. some saws can never be adjusted some can. pm me for more detail its to hard to explain it a post.

 

[chileodell]

So after taking a frustration break I was able to align the slide rails as described by Glass1. Now the saw is tracking perfectly straight. I am ecstatic because I loved everything about the saw and didn't want to have to return it.