Matching a TS60K to shared guide rails - Adjustment Screw confirmation

C8H10N4O2

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Sep 8, 2023
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Hello,

I have a TS 55 FEQ-F and just got a TS 60 KEB which I would like to calibrate to match the guide rails that I have been using with the TS55.

I have already found the general procedure in the festool-ts55req-supplemental-manual.pdf on Festool's website (I think that is the only supplemental tracksaw manual), along with the sedgetool video on youtube which discusses the procedure.  But neither specifically discuss the procedure on the TS60k.

I primarily want to verify that I have identified the correct screws to loosen for the procedure.  I believe I just need to loosen the single screws on both sides of the top of the saw which are holding down the metal blocks, make my adjustments, and then tighten down again. 

Just confirming as neither the screws or metal piece are specifically called out in the TS60 operation manual - and this adjustment setup is different than on my TS55.
 
First, caffeine,  [welcome] to the FOG!

My guess is that you're blazing new territory on this one.  I'm not sure Sedge even mentioned it in his walkthrough Festool Live videos, but I haven't gotten all the way through them yet.

It might help to tag him on his sedgetool adjustment video and ask him to do one on the TS60?  I'm guessing he stays on top of those things.

[member=47173]Brent Shively[/member] [member=71429]DerickC[/member] , can you pass word along that it might be helpful to produce a short from FUSA on how to do this?
 
squall_line said:
First, caffeine,  [welcome] to the FOG!

My guess is that you're blazing new territory on this one.  I'm not sure Sedge even mentioned it in his walkthrough Festool Live videos, but I haven't gotten all the way through them yet.

It might help to tag him on his sedgetool adjustment video and ask him to do one on the TS60?  I'm guessing he stays on top of those things.

[member=47173]Brent Shively[/member] [member=71429]DerickC[/member] , can you pass word along that it might be helpful to produce a short from FUSA on how to do this?

Thank you for the warm welcome squall_line!

I've commented on the sedgetool video asking for confirmation on the adjustment screws.  If I get feedback I'll add a suggestion asking for a short specifically for the TS60 (and I assume tsv60).
 
Hi,

I bought TSV60 in May and now I buy TS60... Difference on rails is more than 1mm from edge of splinter guide. I calibrate TS60 on instructions in supplemental tracksaw manual... only difference is that TS60 has only 2 (two) screws (one on both side)... much, much easy to calibrate than TS55. Same situation on tsv60. You can see images in attachment.
 

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Gidrone said:
Hi,

I bought TSV60 in May and now I buy TS60... Difference on rails is more than 1mm from edge of splinter guide. I calibrate TS60 on instructions in supplemental tracksaw manual... only difference is that TS60 has only 2 (two) screws (one on both side)... much, much easy to calibrate than TS55. Same situation on tsv60. You can see images in attachment.

Now that is an improvement! The way it should have been all along.
 
I'm too late, Gidrone has it covered. The new screw locations are so much easier to do, that if you were used to the old way, it would seem too easy  [unsure]
As I mentioned on the 2700 rail thread, I have a TS55, TS60, and TS75 all calibrated to the same rails. The TS60 is by far the easiest to adjust.
 
Gidrone said:
Hi,

I bought TSV60 in May and now I buy TS60... Difference on rails is more than 1mm from edge of splinter guide. I calibrate TS60 on instructions in supplemental tracksaw manual... only difference is that TS60 has only 2 (two) screws (one on both side)... much, much easy to calibrate than TS55. Same situation on tsv60. You can see images in attachment.

Thank you!  Those are the exact screws i thought it would be.  Any other deviations for the remainder of the calibration process in the supplemental manual?
 
I plan on doing the calibration this weekend and wanted to verify that there’s nothing else that I need to do/plan for during this process.

I have not yet cut anything with the saw - I’ve only verified that the motor spins the blade.

Simple things that might get otherwise overlooked - like required depth of blade, material thickness, etc. I plan on cutting some 3/4 plywood during the process.  I assume i need full depth of cut on the saw. I have feeler gauges that I will be using to set the gap.
 
Yes, the deeper cut depth will increase the comparative length. This also means that the only teeth that can actually contact the splinter strip are the ones at the extreme ends.
I find that the simplest way to do this is to engage the Fast Fix feature, like you are going to change the blade. This gives you plenty of depth and leaves your hands free, as you don't have to hold the saw down against the spring tension.
 
If you have only one saw on the guide, you don’t need to calibrate tool, just replace splinter guide and cut it.

If you want to use multi saw on the same guide rail you need to first cut some peace of wood with old one (which you use it on the guide rails in the past) and use this setup (guide and wood) to calibrate a new saw

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Gidrone said:
If you have only one saw on the guide, you don’t need to calibrate tool, just replace splinter guide and cut it.

If you want to use multi saw on the same guide rail you need to first cut some peace of wood with old one (which you use it on the guide rails in the past) and use this setup (guide and wood) to calibrate a new saw

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will be matching the TS 60 K to my existing rails that I have been using for my TS 55 FEB.  I will be making the cut in the 3/4 plywood at full depth with the 55 and then toeing the blade of the 60 to that cut on the rail.

Thanks.  Sorry for the confusion.
 
I forgot to ask this back when I created this post - but is there a torque spec for the adjustment bolts?
 
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