Max thickness of material to cut with Kapex aluminum blade

ear3

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Been looking for an excuse to get the aluminum blade for the Kapex, since I don't do a lot of metal cutting in my work:
http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-ac...es/aluminum-plastic-68-tooth-saw-blade-495385

I might have one now.  I got from McMaster Carr some 14mm (9/16) hexagonal shafts to make extended versions of the LR32 stops, as discussed in this post:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/lr-32-extensions/

So the question is what is the max thickness of solid aluminum I can cut with the Kapex aluminum blade, and whether  the 14mm shafts are under that limit
 
Go slow and you should be fine.  I've cut 1 or 1.25 inch solid bar stock with the Kapex and an aluminum blade.  I'm not sure an exact limit.

Don't forget to debur / knock down the sharp corners after.

Ken
 
I also cut very thick aluminum frequently, I use WD-40 sparingly as a lube and am careful not to force the cut.
 
There is no max thickness. You can cut through anything blade size allows. It'll be just slow.
 
Festool sells a spark arrestor, or maybe not, so be careful with hot metal in a saw dust bag.
 
Aluminum is non sparking as it is a non ferrous metal, along with brass and copper.  I use an Amana aluminum/plastics industrial blade that cuts so clean I usually do not need to file the cut edge.
 
Ive cut titanium which is a non ferrous metal and it throws white sparks. Ive also cut mild steel tube and alum as well. make sure the stock is clamped on good and turn the speed to 1-2 and go slow.
 
#Tee said:
Ive cut titanium which is a non ferrous metal and it throws white sparks. Ive also cut mild steel tube and alum as well. make sure the stock is clamped on good and turn the speed to 1-2 and go slow.

I thought I was the only one cutting Titanium.
Used a jig saw, and it was jumpin and a dancin.

Aluminium is a lot easier. I cut the Ikea curtain stuff like butter with the jig saw.

Should be easier with a Kapex (??).
 
waho6o9 said:
Festool sells a spark arrestor, or maybe not, so be careful with hot metal in a saw dust bag.

The spark arrestor is really required if you sand some rust which gives you iron oxide and then add aluminium dust. The resultant mixture is known as thermite and burns at over 4000°F.
 
I've bought a £40 ($57) mitre saw specifically for cutting metals. The TCT multipurpose blade makes clean cuts through steel, aluminium, plastics and even nail-embedded wood, and the whole unit is cheaper than a Kapex blade. It retails at £70 normally, but frequently drops to £50 and I grabbed one in a Amazon 20% off deal.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Rage3-B-Multipurpose-Mitre-Saw/

I don't think I'll ever cut anything that will take advantage of the precision of the Kapex, so it's an easy call for me. It also means I don't have to clean the aluminium or plastic off the Kapex as it's somewhat more difficult to do than dust!  [wink]

Just thought I'd mention it as another potential option, i.e. a dedicated saw.
 
Oh well -- I gave my old Ridgid mitre saw to my neighbor (along with some older Dewalt tools).  At least I never have to feel guilty about asking him to water my garden when I go on vacation.

GarryMartin said:
I've bought a £40 ($57) mitre saw specifically for cutting metals. The TCT multipurpose blade makes clean cuts through steel, aluminium, plastics and even nail-embedded wood, and the whole unit is cheaper than a Kapex blade. It retails at £70 normally, but frequently drops to £50 and I grabbed one in a Amazon 20% off deal.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Rage3-B-Multipurpose-Mitre-Saw/

I don't think I'll ever cut anything that will take advantage of the precision of the Kapex, so it's an easy call for me. It also means I don't have to clean the aluminium or plastic off the Kapex as it's somewhat more difficult to do than dust!  [wink]

Just thought I'd mention it as another potential option, i.e. a dedicated saw.
 
GarryMartin said:
I've bought a £40 ($57) mitre saw specifically for cutting metals. The TCT multipurpose blade makes clean cuts through steel, aluminium, plastics and even nail-embedded wood, and the whole unit is cheaper than a Kapex blade. It retails at £70 normally, but frequently drops to £50 and I grabbed one in a Amazon 20% off deal.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Rage3-B-Multipurpose-Mitre-Saw/

I don't think I'll ever cut anything that will take advantage of the precision of the Kapex, so it's an easy call for me. It also means I don't have to clean the aluminium or plastic off the Kapex as it's somewhat more difficult to do than dust!  [wink]

Just thought I'd mention it as another potential option, i.e. a dedicated saw.

That's what I did and the Evolution saw works well and sometimes it's called a cold saw.
 
I am about to do some metal cutting with the Kapex. Can anyone advise me what lubricant I might use? I am in the UK and so some branded products may not be available but a general description like "light oil" or "old wax candles" would be helpful.

I understand the risk of either sparks or hot chippings and have a strategy to deal with that.

Many thanks.

Peter
 
Peter Parfitt said:
I am about to do some metal cutting with the Kapex. Can anyone advise me what lubricant I might use? I am in the UK and so some branded products may not be available but a general description like "light oil" or "old wax candles" would be helpful.

I've used different forms of wax in the past. Others on the FOG have used WD 40.
 

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An ordinary household bar of soap also works well as a lube.  The higher tallow content of laundry varieties (Velvet, Sunight etc). seems to last well on the cutting edges.  It also works with bimetallic holesaws, HSS drillbits & even hammer-driven framing nails & lag screws too.  Lower rotation & feed speeds will assist progress.
 
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