MDF worktop finish recommendations?

[travisj]

I have been working on a new outfeed table/workbench.  The top is MDF and it is trimmed with hard maple.  My original thought was to use paste wax.  Somebody else recommended bowing alley wax.  I have done some research and have seen several instances where BOL was the recommendation.  This lead me to thinking that Surfix might be an option as well. 

Finishing is not in my wheelhouse.  The only finish I have ever used has been poly or paint.  I do have Johnson’s paste wax and a can of HF Staples bowling alley wax.  Essentially I am looking for a recommendation from those more knowledgeable than me.

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[ctvader]

There is a video by mike farrington building a paulk style bench and finishing the top with polyurethane mixed with thinner.  You can fast forwards to the 12:44 mark to see mike mix and apply the finish.  I saw this say mix in another video but can't recall where.

 

[bertv]

I prefer oil. BLO will do fine, Danish also. Thin it down a lot — that works best, I find.

 

[travisj]

I should also ask.  The top is not a torsion box style.  Currently I  in the process of drilling system holes in the top and it is not fastened down.  Would it be wise to coat the underside of the top prior to fastening it?

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[Grev]

I recently tested a number of finishes on regular MDF and was impressed with Howard Feed-N-Wax over other finishes that were more expensive and took more time to apply ..  It's all I use now.  Shown here are two Festool MFT tops, with and without the Feed-N-Wax.  On regular MDF the color is not quite as dark, but a nice brownish-gold look.  I stumbled across it at my local ACE hardware store.

 

[OXCanada]

I used a poly which looks good and I like its wiping ability.  BUT, I use my bench for wood working and light automotive.  Mike Farrington seems to have a good solution.  If I had to do it again, I would go his route.

 

[Svar]

It all depends on what are you trying to achieve. Protection from moisture? Scratch, dent, and wear resistance? Looks? Less/more slippery? Non-stick to protect from glue and paint spills? All of the above?
I prefer penetrating epoxy. It is most costly treatment thought.

 

[rst]

I also use the Howards on all  my MFT tables and tops.  Soaks in and can be redone easily.

 

[gunnyr]

I used tung oil on my MDF topped workbench.  Likely wiped on 6-8 coats.  It has withstood about 10 years of use and misuse.  Sometimes I'll wipe on a little more tung oil if I sand/gouge the finish.  Mostly I just dust it off and keep working! 

 

[travisj]

I recently tested a number of finishes on regular MDF and was impressed with Howard Feed-N-Wax over other finishes that were more expensive and took more time to apply ..  It's all I use now.  Shown here are two Festool MFT tops, with and without the Feed-N-Wax.  On regular MDF the color is not quite as dark, but a nice brownish-gold look.  I stumbled across it at my local ACE hardware store.

Did you do inside the dog holes as well?  (Tough to tell from the picture).

I picked some up Feed-N-Wax today.  I started a sample board with some scrap MDF I had laying around.  So far it is the three different waxes that I have.

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[gunnyr]

Did you do inside the dog holes as well?  (Tough to tell from the picture).

I learned the hard way to finish the top BEFORE drilling dog holes.  I sprayed  poly on the top of my Paulk Compact bench AFTER I drilled the holes and two years later still find holes that dogs won't fit in...... [embarassed]

In the case of my MFT tops I have not found the need to apply any sort of finish.  Two reasons, a) it never really occurred to me at the beginning and b) after 3 years of use I'm not finding it necessary; I don't regret not finishing my MFT top.

 

[rst]

I use the Howards in the dog holes on my table.  I've not had any issues with dog insertion on the various tops I use.

 

[Stone Message]

I have used all sorts for my MDF tops and there is not a huge amount of difference in performance and so go for value...

MDF is an absorbent material and the purpose of the finish is to either bling it up or protect it. I go for the latter in order to be able to wipe glue or spilt finishes from the bench.

I just look inside my finishes cupboard and take the dog end of whatever tin or jar is the least full. I have used linseed oil, some old French polish, liquid wax, polyurethane and Osmo. Osmo was by far the best but do not buy it to put on an MDF top.

Peter

 

[sancho57]

I got 3 MFTs and dont bother finishing mine at all. Its a work bench, i cut into one of mine assemble stuff on the rest, if i get some glue on it I wipe it off. I usually put some type of paper I buy in paint/finish stores over it when Im finishing to prevent staining, but other then that i use it for what its intended for.

 

[cubevandude]

I should also ask.  The top is not a torsion box style.  Currently I  in the process of drilling system holes in the top and it is not fastened down.  Would it be wise to coat the underside of the top prior to fastening it?

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You will have to seal both sides or it will warp.

 

[travisj]

I went with Howard Feed N Wax.  I’m happy with it.  I just wanted to add a little protection to the MDF for possible glue spills, but also if the kids spill something on it.  It will get exposed to a lot that will add “character”.

Thanks for all of the input.

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[Claimdude]

Shellac

Jack

 

[afish]

Try not to over think it.  I just use whatever I have left over from other projects.  which is generally some sort of lacquer or sanding sealer. I sprayed my first top after drilling and it did make the dog holes "tight" still worked but it was hard getting the short dogs out the first couple times. Mine have a 8mm holes so I just threaded in a star knob a couple turns to have something to grip.  Now I just roll on whatever I have with a foam roller.  I am not in the unfinished top camp.  I tried that once and the next day my daughter spilled about a cup worth of Lysol on it and made a giant pimple.  Plus stains soak in and looks like crap after awhile.  The finish gives the MDF a nice deep color and makes it much more durable, harder, long lasting and better looking. 

 

[emlclcy]

one thing to consider for the dog holes is super glue. in the uk you can get a 100gram bottle with an spray activator for not much money. without the activator the glue soaks in then once sprayed the surface goes rock hard. Helps to stop mdf from blowing to
cheers
carl (uk)