MFK 700 and 0 Degree base

[Sparktrician]

Question from an amateur: is it common practice with laminates to apply the edge first, flush trim both top and bottom and then apply the top laminate and trim it?

I have only done a couple of counter tops and I used a PC laminate trimmer and straight bit w/bearing to trim the edge and then a bit with a slight bevel and a bearing to trim the top. Both times I marred the edge veneer just slightly. In one case the laminate had a "pebbly" texture and it seemed that the bearing followed it just a bit and cut minimally deeper at times. In the other case I attributed it to having the beveled bearing a bit to low, exposing more of the beveled cutting edge and scoring the face of the laminate.

Is there a better method (short of buying the 700) or do I just need to develop my skills and technique?

Thanks,

RMW

Generally, I use my MFK700 with a 0° base to clean down laminate overlaps, but admit that this is not the only way to do it.  As Ken noted, be absolutely sure that your bearings - AND CUTTING EDGES - are spotlessly clean (lacquer thinner works well) before starting the rout.  I'd further suggest using a test piece to calibrate your cut before getting into the production piece.  No matter how well you calibrate the base/router, wobbling will ruin a workpiece in a flash.  Use the wide base of the 0° base to best advantage. 

[smile]