MFK 700 For trimming edge banding

[Carl Prentiss]

i know i haven't been on here in a while, but I just acquired the MFK 700 EQ Edge Banding Router to trim edge banding and am now lost in the weeds as far as what I need to make it do what I want. I guess I need cutters, tables and other bits and bobs to perform square, beveled and rounded profiles. In the shopping cart I have?:

495165  1.5 Degree Horizontal Base Unit, MFK 700
491666  TWO FLUTE EDGE TRIMMING BIT, HW, 8 MM
499809  Radius Router Bit 2 mm
495368  Feeler Bearing Set, MFK 700

are these what I need to perform the required tasks? Is there anything I'm missing? Any help would be appreciated.
-Charley

 

[tjbnwi]

It's up to you if you want to get the base and feeler bearing. They are nice in some applications. The router will work without them.

Bits---pick the ones you feel best suit the application.

Tom

 

[DKwoodworking]

If all you need to do is trimming edges (pvc edgebanding) the MFK-700 eq plus and a radius R2 router bit with a bearing is al you need to do the job.

i recently bought one and it did everything it needed to do.
although i would reccomend the SYS KB-KA 65 edge banding finnishing set with the scraper, sanding paper and polisching set to get that "perfect-edge" result.

 

[Carl Prentiss]

  Thanks for the tips. I'm really only interested in wood edge banding. Whats not clear to me is that some operations require the router to be used horizontally and some vertically, and which bits are used in each orientation. I'm assuming the router comes, set up to be used vertically to perform a square flush cut and that this is the bit used:

491666  TWO FLUTE EDGE TRIMMING BIT, HW, 8 MM

I'm also guessing that a radius cut requires the the router to be used horizontally so I need:

95165  1.5 Degree Horizontal Base Unit, MFK 700
499809  Radius Router Bit 2 mm

Having never trimmed edge banding with a router, I'm not even sure which operation requires the feeler bearing:
  495368  Feeler Bearing Set, MFK 700
but if I find I need it, I'd rather have it  than have to wait a week for it to arrive. I'm also not convinced that a beveled profile would be that practical or useful. 
  I've yet to find a good tutorial focused on these operations/options for this router and I think there's a big gap between my knowledge on this subject and what you guys do without even thinking about it.
-Thanks, Charlie

 

[DynaGlide]

Have you watched Marc Spagnuolo (Wood whisperer) and Half-Inch Shy's videos on YouTube? I'm unclear too how to use it but they're helpful anyway.

Half-Inch Shy

 

[DKwoodworking]

  Thanks for the tips. I'm really only interested in wood edge banding. Whats not clear to me is that some operations require the router to be used horizontally and some vertically, and which bits are used in each orientation. I'm assuming the router comes, set up to be used vertically to perform a square flush cut and that this is the bit used:
You use the trimmer horizontal if you need to trim thick wood edges, the gap in the base of the router is only ± 5mm in width, so if the wood edge is more than 5mm you can't pas it trough. but most of the time you use it vertical

 

[Carl Prentiss]

So that's the only reason for it? That's something I needed to know. Thank you.

 

[Sparktrician]

So that's the only reason for it? That's something I needed to know. Thank you.

If you're using the MFK 700 horizontally with the 1.5° base and the 491666 Edge Trimming Cutter, you'll need the feeler bearing set to keep the contact area consistent throughout the cut on the edge banding.  If you choose to do the same thing with the 0° base, you don't need the feeler bearing set. I often use mine with a bottom-bearing flush-cut bit to trim laminates (Formica or Wilsonart), then once the top laminate is in place, I first flush-cut it, then go over the cut using the Amana No-File bit to put on a very fine round-over. 

 

[Carl Prentiss]

So that's the only reason for it? That's something I needed to know. Thank you.

If you're using the MFK 700 horizontally with the 1.5° base and the 491666 Edge Trimming Cutter, you'll need the feeler bearing set to keep the contact area consistent throughout the cut on the edge banding.  If you choose to do the same thing with the 0° base, you don't need the feeler bearing set.

Good tip. Thank you

 

[Carl Prentiss]

So just to be clear, these are the two cutters I need for flush cut and radius cut:?
View attachment 1  View attachment 2

 

[semenza]

I suggest that you buy and use the feeler bearing regardless of which horizontal base you use, especially if this is all new to you. It makes it easy to maintain the horizontal position of the router. Otherwise you are counting on freehand control. And if cutting the max width there is little to no margin.

Seth

 

[Sparktrician]

I suggest that you buy and use the feeler bearing regardless of which horizontal base you use, especially if this is all new to you. It makes it easy to maintain the horizontal position of the router. Otherwise you are counting on freehand control. And if cutting the max width there is little to no margin.

Seth

Concur 100%. 

 

[tjbnwi]

So just to be clear, these are the two cutters I need for flush cut and radius cut:?
View attachment 1  View attachment 2

Yes.

Follower bearing assembly is a must.

Tom

 

[Carl Prentiss]

OKay, got it. thanks for the helpful posts.

-Charlie

 

[joiner1970]

sounds like you bought the MFK basic ? you wouldve been better off getting the full set that comes with the 1.5 base etc