Mfk 700 modification by half inch shy

I will add one addition for anyone in the future coming along. There is a piston under the black knob that locks into a keyway on the shaft of the green knob. If you have the green knob all the way counter clockwise or up position, it will jam the piston into the keyway and removing the black knob seems to have no effect. At that point screw down the green knob, clockwise, so that it releases the piston from the keyway. You may even need to how the hole from the black knob down to let the piston drop down. It's captured in the shaft so don't worry about it coming out.

Separating the two parts is defiantly the way to go. From here I'll either use the jigsaw or scroll saw and finish it off with the drum sander and about a 1" drum.

I guess Paul never realized how to separate the two pieces.

How important is it to remove the "bat wings" left by lengthening the chamber?
 
I see you never removed the “wings” ... I suspect you’re not able, or are barely able, to flush trim 3/4” edge banding?
 
I've been thinking about the wings issue in the overnight and I think they need to be removed. The theory being the cutting edge is at the same height as the wings so the cutter can't efficiently cut where the wings are present. It likely would cut some but would require multiple passes because the cutter is restricted in how much it can cut in one pass.
 
I started on some cabinets with 3/4 inch thick edgeband and had to perform this mod.  I used a hacksaw to start so it essentially removed the wings and made the fret saw work go a bit easier.

It was a doh moment though as I thought I had the zero degree base but it was the 1.5 degree.  [blink] It really shows when you trim 3/4 inch edgeband, luckily it was a test piece I used it on.  [eek]  I ordered the zero degree and did the same mod, so had some practice,  [embarassed]

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View attachment 2

I didn’t remove the movable base, just opened it to the max position.

 

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The first image shows the shaft on the lower plate and the keyway in that shaft. Notice that the keyway is stopped before the end of the shaft. So if the key is in the keyway, that shaft will be stopped before it can be fully extracted. This will be perceived by the green knob no longer able to unscrew past a certain point.

The second image shows the top plate inverted and with a pipe cleaner stuck in the hole where the black knob goes to push the key up to the top for viewing. To remove the green knob, you need this key out of that keyway be removing the black knob and making sure the key has dropped out of the way and it not jammed in place by the green knob.

Does this make sense?

Removing the top plate makes the modification much easier. I cut the access for the bit last night using the spindle sander method with a 1/2" 80 grit sleeve and it was simple and easy.

 

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