Mfk 700 modification by half inch shy

So far the MFK is very nice once you dial it in.  I still have a habit of hitting the edge with a piece of 400 grit but even that is probably not needed.  Its so easy to set up and you get none of that tear out I got with the razor blade trimmers.  It is a nice tool.  I guess if I had a tight budget, I probably wouldn't get it but things are going pretty good now so getting tools while I can before retirement hits.
 
Bert Vanderveen said:
queball said:
I agree not sure why they would limit the capacity to 5/8". What bit are you using?

Longer bits = higher chance of wobble = unsatisfying edge.

Use an 8mm shank bit and it will be fine.
I have done it to two different bases because I had one destroyed by a fire about 15 months ago. I has worked well for me. mine is cut more dramatically then the above pics also. It takes a 3/4" diameter bit with a full 1" cut length, found on the Lee Valley website.
 

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Now that I’ve got the MFK 700 on the way, I’m wondering whether I’ll need a new router bit.  I’ve currently a Whiteside #RFTD2100 Solid Carbide Down Cut Flush Trim Spiral Router Bit ... do you all have the non bearing version for more length, better cut quality, etc.? 

Even if my WhiteSide bit can reach 3/4” with the bearing at the end, would you still advise to replace it with a 8mm bit?
 
Not sure what you plan to do with it but I ordered this one.  It was recommended in Paul Mercel's video about modifying the 0 degree base.  I haven't done the mod yet but I got the bit while I could.

BTW - I found this bit in a couple of places that included shipping, tax, etc.  Ballew had it with no shipping or tax. 

Vortex bit

If your going to do edge banding up to 5/8" (I think), you might want this baby.

Festool MFK 700 bit

 
All the edge banding on my shop cabinets are 3/4” wide.  I’ll probably order the zero degree base tomorrow and can then widen it next week. 

Thanks for the link, I bought the Vortex bit and am excited to try it out!
 
I don’t have a jewelers saw but have a Dewalt scroll saw ... do you think I could cut the 0 degree base with that and a metal cutting blade or should I buy a jewelers saw?
 
I was planning on buying something similar to what Paul used (coping/fret saw) but I haven't dug deep into it yet.  I have seen a couple of these done and they were pretty rough so I want to try a few things.  I want this to look decent.  I also bought a pack of dremel bits thinking I could just eat away at it.  Honestly, just don't have the stones to screw with it until I research a little more.
 
Thanks [member=3513]PaulMarcel[/member] for documenting this modification ... I did the modification today using my Dewalt scroll saw with skip tooth blade, hacksaw, file, and Blue painters tape.

For those who are interested, the only thing I would’ve done differently would have been to replace the Blue tape as the hacksaw and file were wearing through.  It’s a tool and if it’s not scratched/scuffed I’m not using it enough but still could’ve avoided a few scratches.

I unscrewed the top of the base from the bottom which allowed me to lay the bottom flat on the scroll saw and make quick work of things.
View attachment 1

Afterwards, I flipped the base over and taped it to protect it from the hacksaw blade.
View attachment 2

I moved the saw slowly back and forth until a nice cut line had begun and continued to saw, vacuum, until I was close to the tape.
View attachment 3 View attachment 4

I followed the blade parallel with the base plate and here you can see I began scuffing through the tape. I should’ve doubled this up and even changed it mid way again as it was burning through.
View attachment 5

Here you can see the final result which isn’t scuffed/scratched bad but could have been close to perfect with more tape.
View attachment 6 View attachment 7

Finally, here’s the Vortex bit installed above 3/4” edge banding with some room to spare. FWIW, the Vortex bit cutter is closer to 1.25” but I figured I wouldn’t cut away more of the base than needed at this time.
View attachment 8
 

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I did mine with a milling machine, but didn't take any pictures while it was apart. I enlarged the opening to accept a larger diameter cutter. It seems to give a better cut, especially of there is more material to remove or harder wood. I get less tearout that way, at least as far as straight bits go.
That 8mm spiral bit looks interesting, but I didn't see anything like that when I was looking for a bit for this set-up. 8mm shank bits are not nearly as easy to come by in the US, the selection is not so great.
I get those 3/4" bits from Lee Valley for just under $30, that Vortex one is nearly $50. The spiral might make it worth trying, but I have a few of the others already. I'd rather have it all though, the bigger diameter, spiral, and 8mm shank.
 
I keep thinking I need to get a 0 degree base and try this as well. Don't own any fancy tools to mill the base.
 
DynaGlide said:
I keep thinking I need to get a 0 degree base and try this as well. Don't own any fancy tools to mill the base.

I finally received my 0º base from Woodcraft last week, it took about 7 weeks to show up. I'm of the mind-set to do both of the bases at the same time. Then you're done with the project and you don't have to remember any quirks or oddities that need to be incorporated for the second base. Finished... [big grin]
 
Cheese said:
DynaGlide said:
I keep thinking I need to get a 0 degree base and try this as well. Don't own any fancy tools to mill the base.

I finally received my 0º base from Woodcraft last week, it took about 7 weeks to show up. I'm of the mind-set to do both of the bases at the same time. Then you're done with the project and you don't have to remember any quirks or oddities that need to be incorporated for the second base. Finished... [big grin]

What situation do you envision needing extra bit length for the 1.5 degree base?
 
I used a oscillating drum sander to cut mine.

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Rick

I did it last year, I think I used a 120 grit and a 1” sleeve. If you use this method take you’re time it gets hot. Good luck.
 
Is there any trick to getting the two pieces of the base apart? My adjustment knob stops but do I just keep twisting to get it to come apart?
 
Unscrew the large black knob all the way and that should let spin off the top section.
 
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