MFK 700 Modular Router: Member Feedback

[Brice Burrell]

It isn't only FesTools that are going up in price.  Anything made overseas is going up at the same rate and domestic products are not the victim of stagflation.

It is everyone's problem - not only FesTool.  A router bit that last year cost me $40, this year is almost $50 and it has nothing to do with FesTool.

From what I've read, it is likely going to be a long time getting over, if ever.

  Clint, you are absolutely right, the prices are going up on all products. That's why I have to be more careful how I spend me money. I have to have the $50 router bit, not necessarily the $700 edge trimming router, this is where Festool is going to be hurt.

  Don't get me wrong, I'm still going to take a close look at the new Festool products. Since my phone isn't ringing off the hook for work, I need to think long and hard before I buy.

 

[festeringtool]

And as the competition bites in this market the less precious brands will fight it out for market share making the gap even bigger between Festool and rest.......

 

[Fred West]

Brice, no offense taken at all and I was actually glad to be able to word my answer a little bit better. Fred

 

[tallgrass]

well as i have said else where in the forum i am a festool fanatic of the highest order. having said that, i just can not see the 700 being a good buy. i think i can get 2 1010s and set them up with trim router setups for just a little more than one 700 with the trimmings. i can not see how a 700 can compete with 2 1010s. i can set up  one for the top and the other one for the side ,and go from there. i just can not see the 700 have more capacity than 2 1010s. i have seen the 700 and it is nice but i still cannot get over the no visibility of it in comparison to the 1010. i think the 700 should cost less than 1010. festool is getting my money for the table and the big router but i just can not think the 700 makes sense and i am trying real hard. ;D

 

[porkchop]

for super light stuff like edge trimming I have to admit to owning a small herd of super cheap ryobi routers. I just leave them set up for specific tasks and color code them so I don't toss the wrong one in the bag. I hate fidgeting with little trimmers and they get abused and dirty so I go cheap. Usually it's just a small flush cut bit or small edge treatment bit that is used the same way everytime. Sorry festool. I own most of the other festools but don't think I will buy this one. I'm sure lots of others will love it. If I see it at a demo/in person and it seems really good I will rethink.

 

[Brice Burrell]

for super light stuff like edge trimming I have to admit to owning a small herd of super cheap ryobi routers. I just leave them set up for specific tasks and color code them so I don't toss the wrong one in the bag. I hate fidgeting with little trimmers and they get abused and dirty so I go cheap. Usually it's just a small flush cut bit or small edge treatment bit that is used the same way everytime. Sorry festool. I own most of the other festools but don't think I will buy this one. I'm sure lots of others will love it. If I see it at a demo/in person and it seems really good I will rethink.

I have a cheap Rigid edge trimmer, not bad for an edge trimmer, but I have pretty much stopped using it. I now use my 1010 with the edge accessories. I'm interested in seeing it in person. The good news is we should be seeing reviews soon, I'll be them checking out closely.

 

[tvgordon]

Brice,

As a hobbyist, I wish I got a 10% raise to cover the price increases.  I can just add to my collection a little slower than I had wished.  I had not considered that you guys who earn a living with the tools might have a little more trouble justifying the price increases when work slows down.  And you're right, there are many quality tools out there that are less than half the cost of Festool.  While they may lack some of the features and high quality "feel" to them, they are capable of getting the job done.

Tom.

 

[mysterium]

I have been following the various posts on this new trim router and I agree with a lot of what's been said here on the FOG about this new router.  But one point although it is a trim router many are assuming it's target market is other trim routers like PC, DeWalt, Bosch & others in a $100 to $200 price range.  I think this new offering is designed to go toe to toe with the three Lamello's routers that the price of any one of the Lamello's is near the MFK 700.  
http://www.lamello.com/en/products/special-power-tools/laminate-trimmer.htmlhttp://www.lamello.com/en/products/special-power-tools/flush-milling-machine.htmlhttp://www.lamello.com/en/products/special-power-tools/edge-milling-machine.html

The approach Festool used however is a single motor with multiple bases going at the professional laminate & cabinet makers.

For me the MFK 700 is too expensive...

jim

 

[Daviddubya]

...i think i can get 2 1010s and set them up with trim router setups for just a little more than one 700 with the trimmings. i can not see how a 700 can compete with 2 1010s....

tallgrass - Not intending to be argumentative, but...  Using the post-April 1 prices, the OF1010EQ is $360.00.  Add the edge routing accessories for $156.00 and the cost is $516.00.  The MFK700 kit includes the router and two bases, a comparable configuration, for a cost of $510.  Therefore, the MFK700 is just about the same price as one OF1010EQ.

 

[tallgrass]

do not worry about arguing with me i thought the 700 cost over 700 dollars with the needed goodies.....i could be wrong.....500ish seems a little better......but still i think the 700 should be cheaper than 1010? thoughts?

 

[tallgrass]

i also did not add the price increase to the 1010 :-\

 

[Daviddubya]

do not worry about arguing with me i thought the 700 cost over 700 dollars with the needed goodies.....i could be wrong.....500ish seems a little better......but still i think the 700 should be cheaper than 1010? thoughts?

The MFK700 is over $700 with ALL of the goodies.  The edge guide is an accessory for both routers.  There are two horizontal bases for the MFK700, and you might not "need" both.  The 1.5 degree horizontal base comes with the kit.  You can buy the router by itself and buy the vertical and zero degree horizontal bases as accessories.  I configured both routers about the same - with two bases, one vertical and one horizontal.

The OF1010EQ is a plunge router with guide rail capabilities, and the Guide Stop (rail adapter) comes with the router.  If I had neither, I'd be inclined to buy the OF1010EQ, edge guide and edge routing accessories for versatility.  The MFK700 is smaller and lighter and should be easier to handle, although everyone says the OF1010EQ is easy to handle.  It's an academic argument in my case - I have the OF1400EQ already.  I think most people would conclude that you don't need both the MFK700 and the OF1010EQ.  Seems to me the OF1400EQ and the MFK700 are a super pair though.  I can sell 4 routers and have that pair and be happy - one of them is already on Craig's List.

 

[tallgrass]

i have the 2000 the 1400 and the 1010, and soon the the new one, each one is great in its own area with a certain amount of overlap. each one is perfect for some things but from what i have seen of the 700 it does not seem to be a good small router, but a great trim router. i will admit i did not get to play with the 700 that much before it got put back under raps . it is a great trim router that is for sure. i have done a great deal of work with the 1010 and i just do not see a great deal of over lap between the two. i have been surprised with the capacity of the 1010 and how handy it is. i am sure though 700 is great at trim routing, which it is, so well done, i still think it is expensive for a trim router.

 

[Daviddubya]

...i still think it is expensive for a trim router.

There is disputing that point!  The same can be said for other tools in the Festool lineup, but...  Some of us just WANT one???    If the MFK700 had guide rail capability it would be more attractive, at least to me.

 

[nickao]

I totally agree Daviddubya. Why they did not integrate guide rail capability into the design on a new item I wonder about. For my work methods the guide rail in conjunction with the mft was the biggest factor for me jumping to Festool. It changed the entire way I make my projects. Is there no way to use it with the guide rail?

 

[Corwin]

I wish they would offer a plunge base that connected with the guide rail and LR32 plate.  That would be nice.

 

[tallgrass]

if it had the guide connection like the 1010 that would be nice. : the sad point is that am sure i will own it eventually and sing its praises .....i think this is just part of m case of festoolitus.....at least i am not addicted to crack :-\

 

[John Stevens]

For the next year, when I was going somewhere or to work, I'd try on that new sport coat, look in the mirror, and think "Hmmm...  It doesn't look quite right today."   I'd take it off and wear something else.   In that year, I wore it exactly three times!  Cost per wearing: $33.

Dan, that was a great story.  When I was a kid, my dad told me a story almost exactly like that.  He used clothing as the example, but he was talking about much more.  Finished by saying, "you might as well take the cash and put a match to it" as he lit up another Pall Mall.  I never forgot it, and following that advice has worked every time.  I hope someone will read what you wrote, and it will stick with them, too.

Regards,

John

 

[Jerry Work]

It is very easy to adapt the 700 for guide rail work.  No modification to the router needed.  The 700 has rod holes and thumb screws for attaching the edge guide.  Use those with the router stop for the 1010. 

The rod to rod spacing is wider than on the 700.  Drill two 8mm holes in a scrap piece of hard wood or UHMW.  Center the two holes the difference between the rod spacing on the 1010 and the 700.  Cut three pieces of 8mm rod (I cut down a spare set from my 1010 edge guide) to whatever length you want.  One will go from the 1010 stop to the 700.  One will go from the 1010 stop to the outer hole in your scrap piece.  The third will go from the 700 to the inner hole in your scrap piece.  Once you have the lengths properly adjusted to produce the edge of guide rail to bit center you want, epoxy the two pieces of rod into the scrap block.  Works like a charm.  The bottom of rod to bottom of 1010 stop is 1mm different from the bottom of rod to bottom of 700 but that does not effect ease of use. 

Set up this way the edge of guide rail to 700 bit center is 55mm or more when the base of the 700 runs on the work piece.  If you prefer to shorten the edge of guide rail to 700 bit center dimension to as little as 15mm by having the 700 run on the guide rail the way the other routers do, just cut two pieces of scrap UHMW to about 20mm wide by 4mm thick and use the existing screw holes on the bottom of the 700 to mount them outboard of the bit hole to keep the router from tipping.  Does the same thing as the outboard support on the 1010 and 1400.  While conventional wisdom says the guide rails are 5mm thick, mine all measure 4mm and 4mm makes the 700 run parallel with the surface of the work piece.

The 700 has more than enough power to make 10mm depth DT groves in the hardest woods without any need for precutting a straight grove first.

If you opt for having the 700 run on the surface of the work piece then you can set the bit depth once and cut the grove on the guide rail, then mount the base on the side of the MFT and cut the male at the same bit depth setting for a perfect fit.  Very slick, very fast and more accurate than setting the bit depth on a 1010 or 1400 router to cut the grove, then removing the bit and resetting it in another router either in a router table or in a horizontal router jig such as I described in Appendix A of the MFS manual.

The more I use it, the more I like this 700 router.  I will be adding pics showing all this to the tutorial section on my web site www.jerrywork.com later today or early next week.

Jerry

I totally agree Daviddubya. Why they did not integrate guide rail capability into the design on a new item I wonder about. For my work methods the guide rail in conjunction with the mft was the biggest factor for me jumping to Festool. It changed the entire way I make my projects. Is there no way to use it with the guide rail?

 

[Ned]

...The 700 has rod holes and thumb screws for attaching the edge guide. ...Drill two 8mm holes in a scrap piece of hard wood or UHMW.  Center the two holes the difference between the rod spacing on the 1010 and the 700.  Cut three pieces of 8mm rod (I cut down a spare set from my 1010 edge guide) to whatever length you want.

5/16 inch (7.94mm) rod will probably work fine in this situation. 

Ned