MFK 700 or other trimmer?

[Holmz]

Using some veneered MDF or similar, I would like to put real wood onto the edges.
Something ~7-mm to 1/2"...
Enough for a #o biscuit to hold the wood on and some fat to sand it without "breaking on through to the other side"... Probably more like 10-mm??

So if that wood is proud of the veneer then I need to trim it.
My choices seem to be a file or rasp, or a power tool.

There is the MFK700, but I am not sure of the length of cut?
Or a regular router and some contraption to keep it normal to the edge like a rod which I saw a few weeks ago (I think was a plastic rod).
Or some Swiss or Austrian or Spanish edge planner. Maybe with a 1.5 degree draft angle.

What is easy/cheap?
A roller bearing and the plastic rod followed by a file?

As I may have a number of pieces to make... What is optimal if I ignore cost?

 

[tjbnwi]

The 3/4" wide edge on this table was done with the 1010 and lipping plate. If it was less that 3/4" I would have used the 700 with the horizontal base.

Either/both are so accurate that I can undercut the edging just enough that the dried finish film lines up with the top of the laminate.

Tom

 

[stvrowe]

Optimally and ignoring cost, the best choice is a lipping planer.  Either Lamello Cantex, Adler, or the Virutex.  I have the Cantex and it is a great machine but costly.  My experience has been this gives a much smoother cut and is much less prone to tear-out than a router bit.

The MFK is also a good choice but once the width of the hardwood gets over 6 mm, the 1.5 degree base becomes very noticeable (at least to me).  If I went that route, I would opt for the 0 degree base which will add cost.  For the MFK, you will be limited to a max width of about 15mm.

If you have either the OF1010 or OF1400, the edging plate will also work but I found this is a bit awkward for me with the OF1400 as it is heavy.  This probably works better with the OF1010 that I don't have.

Another option is the table saw.  William Ng has a video of a jig ( )  starting at about 6:40 he shows how to trim edgebanding.

 

[tjbnwi]

Steve,

I asked this question on another forum, never got an answer----

Can you adjust/control the inward depth of cut accurately on your lipping planer? On the table I posted, I had to cut right along the edge of the laminate without chipping/damaging it. As I said, I undercut the lipping 0.007" so the dried finish lines up with the top. Is the inward adjustment accurate enough to do this?

I do have the 0º base for the 700. Anything over 3/16 and the 0º goes on the 700. Anything over 11/16" I use the 1010 with the lipping plate.

Thanks.

Tom

 

[Holmz]

Crickey!  That seems like a Serious tool.

I already have a Zeta-P2, so I assume that this is also of "Swiss watch" quality.
I do not have a 1010 nor a 1400, just a different 8-mm router which I like for freehand work.
Also I have no table saw, but that tablesaw work looks to me sort of like a router table approach.
The Cantex is also the most expensive of the group.

The others are included for completeness...

Adler/Hoffmann:

virutex CE 89:

I am thinking of used a composite panel with end grain balsa and fiberglass face sheets.http://atlcomposites.com.au/icart/products/92/images/main/Duflex Balsa.pdf

Ignoring if one wanted the sides to be contrasting... The 2 options are:
1) Attach the sides first then flush trim, and then laminate/veneer
2) Veneer first and then attach the sides and flush trim.

Option #1 seems more straight forward...
But what do people using veneer on MDF do?

In the end I will stick it together with ClampeX, and then break it down and ship it 1/2 around the world. Hence that is why I am weight and joinery approach focused.  [embarassed]

 

[VW mick]

[member=40772]Holmz[/member]

Can't believe you can't use the red jigsaw  [big grin]

If the edging is only a fraction bigger than the board. And you are going to locate with a biscuit. A skim with a sharp plane and a sand would be enough I would have thought. No need for a trimmer

 

[Holmz]

[member=32795]VW MICK[/member] I doubt that the red jigsaw would work....
But maybe I am overthinking this?

I ordered some biscuits last night and a TOP-21 cutter blade.
So I was thinking if the rails/stiles were outboard of the veneer then I maybe I would put some tape on a hand plane to scoot across the veneer... If the edging is under veneer, then it gets easier.

I suppose I should just 'ave-a-go and see?

 

[VW mick]

Yes I think that's what I would try

 

[stvrowe]

Steve,

I asked this question on another forum, never got an answer----

Can you adjust/control the inward depth of cut accurately on your lipping planer? On the table I posted, I had to cut right along the edge of the laminate without chipping/damaging it. As I said, I undercut the lipping 0.007" so the dried finish lines up with the top. Is the inward adjustment accurate enough to do this?

I do have the 0º base for the 700. Anything over 3/16 and the 0º goes on the 700. Anything over 11/16" I use the 1010 with the lipping plate.

Thanks.

Tom

Tom,
Yes, it is extremely accurate.  Each click of the adjustment is 0.035mm height adjustment.  To do what you describe will require the optional fence.
Steve

 

[tjbnwi]

Thanks Steve, I noticed in the Cantex video the auxiliary fence.

Tom

 

[bobfog]

What about one of these?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/MAKITA-RT0700CX4-Inch-Router-Trimmer-240V/dp/B00B48Z01G

 

[Holmz]

Maybe [member=60286]bobfog[/member] , I just considered that I want a lot of "something" behind to keep it all flat. I would have to use it from the side to trim the top and bottom of the trim material, so the MFK looked right, but maybe too short.

I find it interesting that I was looking at power tools and VW MICK suggested a handplane, and I did the same yesterday in another thread. It is hard to think as clearly When one is too close to the work.
I need to get a table saw to get the small pieces close, they are a bit too small for a track saw.

 

[jacko9]

The simple answer for me would be to use a hand plane set for a very fine cut - I do it all of the time with solid wood edging.

 

[otis04]

I have the MFK-700 and love the router.  I use it for the flush trim set-up but have also found it works really well as a small router and a nice compliment to the OF1400.  I used to think I would some day get the OF 1010 but probably not now.

Put another way, it is more than a trim router.  I find it to be more versatile.

 

[Holmz]

Everyone raves about the FT routers, but I have not used one.
I did put the paws to a 1400 in a shop, and it seemed familiar, so it must be that all the Elu -> deWalt -> etc ... result in some consistency.

But to me that 700 seems distinctly worth a closer look.

-------------
Back to the process...
It seems that the MDF with veneer on them need the rails/stiles outboard.
And layup on a composite panel I have a choice.
(I'll probably do the MDF first for a bathroom)

 

[bobfog]

Maybe [member=60286]bobfog[/member] , I just considered that I want a lot of "something" behind to keep it all flat. I would have to use it from the side to trim the top and bottom of the trim material, so the MFK looked right, but maybe too short.

I find it interesting that I was looking at power tools and VW MICK suggested a handplane, and I did the same yesterday in another thread. It is hard to think as clearly When one is too close to the work.
I need to get a table saw to get the small pieces close, they are a bit too small for a track saw.

I know what you mean. It is a nice tool and I do fancy one as I have a couple of projects coming up where I could utilise it. But it just seems so expensive for such a niche tool. The Makita I was looking at, whilst being 1/4-1/3 the price depending on what kit you get, it also has a decent depth adjustment range, which the MFK700 doesn't seem to have.

Maybe the OF1010 and edge trimming guide would be a more versatile investment...