MFK700 vertical cut with horizontal base

[Crazyraceguy]

Trimming PVC edgebanding inside a rectangular opening of a cabinet side makes it so the "normal" horizontal base would not fit. I really prefer to cut edges with the bit cutting perpendicular to the face of the edging. Inside an opening this small (8" x 12") the router body just won't fit in there, so the work around was to mount the motor in the vertical position and use a 45 degree bevel bit. You kind of have to do it as a climb-cut, so that the bit is not trying to pull the PVC off of the material, but it's easy to cut, not grabby at all.
Dust extraction is impossible, so it made a bit of a mess, but I didn't have problems with glue sticking to the bit. There were four of these to do.

 

[afish]

Why no Festool #500368

 

[afish]

How did you apply the banding.  I just did a tight 90 corner with .25"R  I had to run the banding through the conturo to apply the EVA then use a heat run to re activate the glue and work it by hand. still have the blister from the hot glue.  If there is a better way im all ears.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

How did you apply the banding.  I just did a tight 90 corner with .25"R  I had to run the banding through the conturo to apply the EVA then use a heat run to re activate the glue and work it by hand. still have the blister from the hot glue.  If there is a better way im all ears.

That was totally done by hand, in one piece, using contact cement and pressing it in place with a hand made wooden tool. It's a spatula looking kind of thing. I got the idea from a former co-worker who called it a "monkey-hand". I also use it to press veneer in place. Sticking an inside corner that tight is hard enough, but fully enclosed, is no match of any machine I have ever seen.
It's still easier than squaring all of those corners and hand fitting it in separate pieces. 

 

[afish]

Figured, just making sure I wasnt missing out on some fancy technique

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Why no Festool #500368

I'm just not so sure about that technique? I have never done it that way, or even seen it done.
Using the bevel bit and bearing made it pretty foolproof.
I have never bought that bit because I'm just not sure of it.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Figured, just making sure I wasnt missing out on some fancy technique

Sadly, no. I wish there was. It took nearly and hour and a half to do 4 of those, wrestling and wrangling the whole time. This would have been a perfect case for a Vacuum clamping system.

 

[afish]

Why no Festool #500368

I'm just not so sure about that technique? I have never done it that way, or even seen it done.
Using the bevel bit and bearing made it pretty foolproof.
I have never bought that bit because I'm just not sure of it.

Trick is just leave it a little proud and then finish with that festool scraper. Dont try to get it perfectly flush with the router just leave about .010

 

[Crazyraceguy]

It just seems like a whole lot of bit hanging out over a finished surface, for no particular reason?
I realize that the bit is over the finished surface with the horizontal base configuration too, but at a 1.5 degree tilt to keep it away. You literally cannot dig in with the horizontal setup.
How would you start the cut in a situation like this? Seems like somewhere the bit is going to be cutting outward?

 

[Axis39]

Prior to owning an MFK, I made my own flush trimming jig for one of my old routers (A Dewalt 610...). Fiddly height adjustment was my biggest complaint.  I was going to replace it with a newer router, then discovered the MFK.

Anyway, I basically made a larger version of the 'other' horizontal base that you can buy for the MFK (it's the non-2 base kit, that is meant to trim with the motor in the vertical position).  I just used any flat bottom bit.  Usually, it was a 1/2" two flute design, but I liked using a couple other bits as well....  Always considered a bowl bit, but never got around to it...  thinking the rounded profile would help make a smoother transition.

Anyway, it works fine, but the key to have a two step base.  You could probably just cut a piece of 1/4" MDF and screw it to the vertical base fo the MFK?

 

[Sparktrician]

I'd be using the zero degree base for the MFK 700 and a 20mm straight bit to reduce the excess material.  Adjust the base so it holds the bit just a hair above the finished surface.  Then I'd shift over to the vertical base with an Amana 47150 no file bit to get the gentle round-over.  Get used to this bit on a test piece before tackling a production piece.