MFS looks like the answer

HowardH

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Jan 23, 2007
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It appears after reading Jerry's tremendous review of the MFS, it would make sense in the long run to get one of these systems.  I can see where it can replace many of the functions of a cabinet saw and make the cuts much more accurately using the guide rail.  I just got the TS-75 so cutting 8/4 stock should no longer be an issue than could be solved only with using a cabinet saw.  There is about $140 difference between the 400 and 700.  Which did you choose?  Is it worth having the extra length?  What are the "must have" accessories?  BTW, didn't Jerry also write another piece called "Getting the most out of the Festool MFS"?  I read the newer version but couldn't find the original.
 
Howard,
  I have both the 400 and 700 sets, I happen to use the 400 a little more installing hinges and other door hardware. However, having both set offers an incredible amount of flexibility. As always it comes down to looking closely at your needs. In general the smaller set is better for small work, routing for hardware, mortises in table and chair legs, and so on. The 700, larger inlays and borders, as a square or fence for the MFT.

  If you want to use the MFS for cutting applications a set of the longer profiles may be a good idea along with either of the sets you decide on. Also a set of guide bushings and/or copying rings and start a collection of Metric router bits.
 
I have found the 700 to be a little cumbersome when trying to use it as a routing template for small parts. The good news is that you will soon be able to buy two additional 200mm rails (in the USA!) so that you can configure them as either the MFS400 or MFS700.

Charles
 
Hi Howard,

I wrote just one MFS manual, the one that is posted on the festoolusa.com > Application tips > Woodworking site.  There are several other of my manuals there as well, but just the one on the MFS.  The appendix to that manual contains the info on how to build the horizontal router jig as well.  

The two sets are identical except the 400 includes two 200 mm and two 400mm profiles while the 700 substitutes two 700m units for the two 200mm profiles.  

Glad you find the manuals helpful.

Jerry
 
Thanks for the link, Ned.  Just placed my order with Bob.  What size router bit should I get for the circle cutter?  I ordered the 30mm copy ring for this purpose.
 
HowardH said:
Thanks for the link, Ned.  Just placed my order with Bob.  What size router bit should I get for the circle cutter?  I ordered the 30mm copy ring for this purpose.

  Doesn't really matter much, think about what size bit you can get the most use out of. That being said, I like the 10 mm bit or a spiral bit.
 
HowardH said:
...What size router bit should I get for the circle cutter?  I ordered the 30mm copy ring for this purpose.
'

To make the math easy, the bit should be metric and the diameter should be an even number.

On my 1010, an 8mm or 6mm.

Ned
 
I got the 400.  I will eventually add the 700.

From reading other opinions here on the FOG, i learned a little about overhang of the legs of the MFS when routing small using larger template.  Not good.

Yesterday, I made a booboo when using the MFS for cutting a circle.  It was something others of minimal (as I am including myself) experience with the system might want to know about and thus save themselves a little grief.  I will put it into a seperate discussion.

Tinker
 
I'm sure it will all make a lot more sense once I have it and have had the opportunity to play with it a bit.  To anyone else out there looking to use this as a squaring jig as Jerry suggests, be sure to order the extra profile pieces.  I didn't consider it but will order shortly. 
 
Another answer to the "what size router bit" question:

Tinker (in the MFS Mistook thread) was using a 16mm bit, and said:
I had cut the circumference wuith bandsaw.  Cut about 1/8" to 1/4" oversize and i was trimming back to a perfect circle with the router bit.  When trimming along an edge like that, i find less chipping with larger bit.

Ned
 
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