MFS - poor quality connecting hardware (threaded inserts)

[fritter63]

I've just been trying to reconfigure my MFS to make a large arc, and this requires me to fix one single MFS profile to the side of the longer one for the pivot point (I don't have enough profiles to do it in a square pattern).

I already have a bunch of extra threaded inserts which I recently got from Festool for just this purpose. However, when trying to insert a new one, I found the following problems.

1) The insert is NOT reverse threaded as indicated in Brice's manual. The ones that came with the MFS are.

2) the end of the insert is so poorly made that the 4mm alan wrench barely fits in there. On one I could not get it in at all, even with a ball end hex.

3) I got one insert in about 90% of the way, then it stripped out. I was able to back it out though.

Currently very unhappy about this.

Something has changed in the inserts and it is not for the better.

Here's a picture of the "new" insert next to a factory installed one. YOu can see that even the smooth end of it is not the same.

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[nclemmons]

One thought is to try to cut the threads before you try to insert the new parts.

Given these are from Germany, that is probably a metric thread.  Stop by the hardware store and pick up a metric bolt of the same size.  Use a file to cut a gash from the bottom up through the threads to create a 'thread cutter' with the metric bolt.  Use this to cut threads in the ends of the MFS pieces.  I'd probably not go quite as deep as the depth of the insert so you have enough threads at the end to 'grab' and hold in place.

I don't think a normal tap would work given the one side of the MFS profile is open, but the bolt should work.

Other than that, you might call Festool service and chat with them.

 

[fritter63]

UPDATE: Been emailing back and forth with Festool support and here's the status

1) confirmed that threads have been reversed (right handed) on new connector inserts

2) This appears to be a quality control problem with the new inserts. Mine will not allow a 4mm hex head any further in than .5 mm. The same wrench on existing (factory installed) connectors will go in a full 5 - 6 mm.

Festool is sending me 4 new connectors, which have been verified to have proper machining.

Thanks, Festool Support!

 

[Brice Burrell]

Glad to hear Festool is taking care of it.  Were you able to still do what you needed to cut the arc?  As much as I like the MFS I find it much easier to make my own trammel out of plywood for large arcs/circles.  A scrap of plywood and five minutes, you're all set, super easy and dirt cheap.

 

[fritter63]

Glad to hear Festool is taking care of it.  Were you able to still do what you needed to cut the arc?  As much as I like the MFS I find it much easier to make my own trammel out of plywood for large arcs/circles.  A scrap of plywood and five minutes, you're all set, super easy and dirt cheap.

No, this is holding me up now.

But, I had already thought of doing what you suggested. Just cut a 30 mm hole in the end and I can still use the 1400. I may end up doing that.

Was hoping to have to not build anything for one time use, and I have two different radii that need to be done. The largest is like 1900+ mm (almost 6 feet). Maybe I'll dig out my plastic curved templates and see if there's something close.

Actually, I *could* reverse the profile, lock in on the inside side, and then clamp the other side. That would hold it together well enough.

 

[Tim Morris]

Fritter I've got one made out of 1/4" plywood, like Brice is suggesting. It is the width of the router base and 8 feet long. I marked the center line of the jig when i made it. I just mount it to the router, insert the bit I intend to use and measure the arc desired on the plywood. Drill a 1/4" hole and this becomes the pivot. The one i have is 10 years old and has MANY pivots drilled in it. Like Brice said super fast, cheap and doesn't take any space hanging on the wall in the shop. Hope this helps.

 

[Alan m]

i had a jig like that. it worked great. the guide bush in the hole worked a treat , you can hold the router  and move it around (guide bush allows the router to rotate in the hole) without having to adjust for the difering shape as the router moves around .
it was great until the guide bush poped out  and the bit ruined it. i will make a new one eventually. i liked it because the pivot point was set(hole drilled in it for drill bit pivot point). i could go back to that jig in a years time and gotten the sized circle (with the same cutter)

 

[Brice Burrell]

i had a jig like that. it worked great. the guide bush in the hole worked a treat , you can hold the router  and move it around (guide bush allows the router to rotate in the hole) without having to adjust for the difering shape as the router moves around .
it was great until the guide bush poped out  and the bit ruined it. i will make a new one eventually. i liked it because the pivot point was set(hole drilled in it for drill bit pivot point). i could go back to that jig in a years time and gotten the sized circle (with the same cutter)

Alan, that's what I do as well.  I use a Festool 30mm copy ring and drill the hole with a Zobo bit, the fit is prefect.  I don't have room to store much so I don't bother keeping the jig when I'm done since they are so easy to make when needed.

 

[Tinker]

Actually, wouldn't any size copy ring work.  I like the idea as it is sometimes a PITA to get that sliding thingee to stay put in the MFS.  I lock in two of them to hold one against the other, but will try Brice's method next time i am doing an arc. 

I have given up on the PC type copy rings.  Even when i use a nail set to tighten them, they will come loose.  I have almost a full set for each the OF 1000 and the 1400.  If I need one that is missing, I will get it.  I enjoy traveling to get toys much better than reusing my already milled lumber for smaller projects because a copy ring parted company.  I have a couple of chewed up brass rings hanging on the wall just to remind me how much better and far more practical  are the Festoy rings.
Tinker

 

[Alan m]

i dont like those us style guide bushs. the leigh dovtail jig i used one (finger joint template) was like that. it never stayed tight. total nightmare.

yes tinker any sized guide bush would wonk . as long as the bit fits through. the larger the guide bush the better the dc. i used the 30mm because i have one for each of my routers. it is a standard size i think .

 

[Tinker]

i dont like those us style guide bushs. the leigh dovtail jig i used one (finger joint template) was like that. it never stayed tight. total nightmare.

yes tinker any sized guide bush would wonk . as long as the bit fits through. the larger the guide bush the better the dc. i used the 30mm because i have one for each of my routers. it is a standard size i think .

Thanks for the tip Alan,  I had not thought about the dc part of the problem.  [scratch chin]
Tinker