MFT 3 ideas for small shop

One thing I noticed in the video is that the rail moves the workpieces slightly.

I think this could be avoided by removing a part of the black anti-slip strips, just 1-2cm at the back where the edge of a high workpiece contacts the rail while it's still tilted.
 
Gregor said:
One thing I noticed in the video is that the rail moves the workpieces slightly.

I think this could be avoided by removing a part of the black anti-slip strips, just 1-2cm at the back where the edge of a high workpiece contacts the rail while it's still tilted.

I did see that on the video. The boards were very slick and slid on each other and I wasn’t holding them  When I have used it, it has not been a problem as I am normally holding the boards against the fence. Most of the stuff I have cut has been 3/4” so it doesn’t move at all.  On boards > 2” I just noticed the rail just dropped slower but I was holding the boards.

That being said, I think if I was cutting a lot of taller boards I would cut a tiny but of the foam out. I may do it anyway.

Thanks for the thought.
 
Thanks for sharing - that's great! And thanks for sharing the part numbers.

I am assuming you still need to adjust the front to height (which is far more convenient to do)?

I find that I really need to use the front to keep the rail at 90 degrees to the holes, as when I drop the rail down "naturally" it is far from 90 degrees. This is also evidenced by the fact that when I drop the rail onto the locating pin on the front support there is tension (which admittedly takes the slop out).
 
eddomak said:
Thanks for sharing - that's great! And thanks for sharing the part numbers.

I am assuming you still need to adjust the front to height (which is far more convenient to do)?

I find that I really need to use the front to keep the rail at 90 degrees to the holes, as when I drop the rail down "naturally" it is far from 90 degrees. This is also evidenced by the fact that when I drop the rail onto the locating pin on the front support there is tension (which admittedly takes the slop out).

I always adjust the front height and use the support when cutting.

I was able to adjust it on the guide hinge plate so it falls basically at 90 degrees now. Before this, I had more slop in the guide rail until locked.

The only thing I try to do when cutting narrow boards is add a piece of similar thickness near the front of the table so when the guide falls it has more support.  Since I moved the guide back, which helps with the hinge effect also, I have more cutting space but also greater span.  I think the support helps.  I can basically use this as a miter / chop saw as I cut some fairly small pieces. The other day I cut some 1.5”x3” pieces with a 30% cut on one side. The piece up front under the guide made it very solid.
 
Thanks for sharing your idea, making a video, and listing the parts.  Helped me put it to use on my new Kreg workbench/MFT.
 

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I really like this idea.  I do not have the Festool hinge for the track as I have a Makita.  Does anyone have an idea how to make a hinge to work with this if they do not have the Festool setup as shown?
 
cubevandude said:
I really like this idea.  I do not have the Festool hinge for the track as I have a Makita.  Does anyone have an idea how to make a hinge to work with this if they do not have the Festool setup as shown?

I spent a little time on 8020 working up a hinge with a plate. After using the Festool plate and hinge I never ordered anything. You might consider ordering the parts from Festool parts catalogue.  I can’t seem to copy the link from my iPad but google Ekat Festool.  Lookunder Workplace organization then MFT3.

I know Sean KS on this thread used 8020 and machined some parts for the front piece. I do not have equipment for that. He also obviously has more skills than I do. 

Hope that helps.
 
DIY WoodWerx said:
Thanks for sharing your idea, making a video, and listing the parts.  Helped me put it to use on my new Kreg workbench/MFT.

That looks fantastic. Wish I had the space.  Well done. 
 
I also have a small shop. Not as small as the OPs but small.

What i did to give me more room was to build sysports that fit under the MFTs. I found I could fit 4 per a MFT. Doing this cleared the 3,  8 ft long shelves I used out of spur shelving to stack my systainers on. Nothing fancy, I build for function in these cases. Though I did use edge banding on the boxes to dress them up a bit. Castors can be added if you want to move the boxes/cabinets around even outside if its warm and you have space. I build the boxes 29" high and used 3 1/2 inch castors from Harbor Freight (red wheels) . Gives me enough height to just fit under the MFT and even add a small drawer on the one holding 2 sortainers.

Doing this, I basically freed up the entire back wall of my small garage shop. Where I can more cabinets for storage or a work bench or move my miter saw w/stand to free up more work space on the side of my shop. Oh because of the extra space I reaquired I did use some small bit of wall space, with some of the spur shelve (2 risers) to set my CMS  modules mostly all home made they are now right near my CMS giving me better access to them. I dont have photos of it yet as I just did it yesterday.

The photos arent to good as its a small shop and a tight fit for my fat butt to move around in.

But it will give ya the idea

One is of the 3 shelves which in the photo are almost empty and now are empty

the rest are of the under MFT storage before i started drssing them up. I did add 12" blum euro drawer slides to make it easier to pull the systainers out and on pull out to set my TS 55 on in between cuts. You can see that barely in one of the photos.
This is nothing special but it works for me

 

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THese are some great mods. The fact that they're necessary really frustrates me.  I've owned 3 MFTS, which all gone now, as I made an MFTC that is much, much better.  These mods also really highlight the major issues with the MFT3 and the need for a major redesign/upgrade.  $720 for something that you have to modify the heck out of is crazy.  I'm tempted to go off on a rant here but won't. 

Excellent work OP for adapting the system to suite your needs. 
 
[member=59237]TheSergeant[/member]  What mods do you think are necessary?

The MFT is a portable work table that facilitates using the tracksaw at a job site. No modifications are required for that.

Did you expect to use the MFT for a different purpose?
 
Hal M said:
cubevandude said:
I really like this idea.  I do not have the Festool hinge for the track as I have a Makita.  Does anyone have an idea how to make a hinge to work with this if they do not have the Festool setup as shown?

I spent a little time on 8020 working up a hinge with a plate. After using the Festool plate and hinge I never ordered anything. You might consider ordering the parts from Festool parts catalogue.  I can’t seem to copy the link from my iPad but google Ekat Festool.  Lookunder Workplace organization then MFT3.

Do you think something like this would work?  15 Series Universal Standard Structural Pivothttps://8020.net/shop/4356.html
I see your pieces are 10 series though.
 
cubevandude said:
Hal M said:
cubevandude said:
I really like this idea.  I do not have the Festool hinge for the track as I have a Makita.  Does anyone have an idea how to make a hinge to work with this if they do not have the Festool setup as shown?

I spent a little time on 8020 working up a hinge with a plate. After using the Festool plate and hinge I never ordered anything. You might consider ordering the parts from Festool parts catalogue.  I can’t seem to copy the link from my iPad but google Ekat Festool.  Lookunder Workplace organization then MFT3.

Do you think something like this would work?  15 Series Universal Standard Structural Pivothttps://8020.net/shop/4356.html
I see your pieces are 10 series though.

I am happy to reach out to my 8020 salesman and ask him for an idea for the hinge if you would like this week.  I used the 10 series because I was trying to minimize space.
 
I would appreciate that.  I do see these are available in 10 series also.  A plate on the top with a way to attach the track and it might work.
10 Series Universal Structural Pivot Nub, Part Number: 4186
10 Series “L” Structural Pivot Arm, Part Number: 4149

Here it is assembled:
10 Series Universal Standard Structural Pivot, Part Number: 4156https://8020.net/4156.html
 
I think this pivot would be an option as well.
https://8020.net/shop/14011.html

It would allow you to attach and hinge the Festool rail without any further modifications.

The one thing I don’t know is the height from the top of the linear bearing to the top of the MFT. The pivot I’m recommending  could be too tall. Not sure, and I don’t have an actual MFT to check? It’s just shy of 2in tall when the Festool rail is lowered for a cut.
 
Sean KS said:
I think this pivot would be an option as well.
https://8020.net/shop/14011.html

It would allow you to attach and hinge the Festool rail without any further modifications.

The one thing I don’t know is the height from the top of the linear bearing to the top of the MFT. The pivot I’m recommending  could be too tall. Not sure, and I don’t have an actual MFT to check? Its just shy of 2in tall when the Festool rail is lowered for a cut.

I actually considered that hinge.  My concern was getting more than one connection to the rail so it had a better chance of keeping the rail square. I also thought the wider profile would help it stay square in the vertical plane in the bearing. After using it for a while it may make no difference. I will ask my sales rep today if he is working.
 
Hal M:  Thanks for thinking this up as I am ready for this modification to my MFT table.  I had forgotten just where this tread was and looked for ever!  You can only imagine my frustration of searching the FOG high and low..........!!

Thanks for sharing all your efforts! 8)

Jig
 
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