MFT/3 securing the fence without using the protractor head

[friendly118]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]

I have come across a solution that I will be able to execute with a pair of Veritas bench dogs.  I will lose a bit of rip capacity because I will have to move the fence up passed the first row of dog holes.  Or maybe I can drill a couple new holes to accommodate the bench dogs.

 

[DynaGlide]

Yes I've seen those and others. They are tempting for their simplicity I just didn't want to give up any cross cut capacity.

 

[friendly118]

I think this may be my easiest solution. Not to mention, the second clamp I have is on loan and being as I can't get sound results the cost is much less.  I will post some pictures when I achieve my final setup.

 

[DynaGlide]

I think this may be my easiest solution. Not to mention, the second clamp I have is on loan and being as I can't get sound results the cost is much less.  I will post some pictures when I achieve my final setup.

[member=65996]friendly118[/member] Let us know how it works. I'm not opposed to them.

 

[sprior]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]

I have come across a solution that I will be able to execute with a pair of Veritas bench dogs.  I will lose a bit of rip capacity because I will have to move the fence up passed the first row of dog holes.  Or maybe I can drill a couple new holes to accommodate the bench dogs.

That's just some nut with a 3D printer....
The design is on a site called Thingiverse.

 

[friendly118]

[member=14226]sprior[/member]
I'm guessing this is your design.  Well done.  I don't intend on using your print mainly because I don't have a 3d printer.  I do however want to do something simple to mount my fence.  I will either drill holes in dogs or just mount a strip to the back edge of my table and use some 6m bolts to fasten the fence.

 

[sprior]

Yeah it's mine.  When I started another thread on this subject here I thought there were options for sale, but there weren't.  Certainly didn't go into that thinking that I'd end up providing one.  By the end of the discussion a new product came into the market.

 

[friendly118]

[member=14226]sprior[/member]
Do you sell yours or is it just the file for download by donation?  Or is there another product on the market?  If nothing is for sale, how much does it cost to print should I find someone with a 3-D printer?

 

[sprior]

[member=65996]friendly118[/member] I posted the design for free on Thingiverse without any expectation of payment, if someone feels like using the tip function that's fine, but not at all required.  I did end up selling a couple of sets directly because they asked me to since they didn't have access to a 3D printer and I sold them complete sets including the required nuts and bolts mentioned in the Thingiverse page.  I didn't do this with any intention of selling them.

Since I started the other discussion thread here it seems that TSO came out with a product with the same inspiration that's made out of metal.  If a product had existed when I started the discussion (which I expected) I would have just bought it, but when nothing seemed to exist I went ahead and designed my own.  I'm actually pretty happy with my version and have used it a fair amount lately, it seems as accurate as anything else.

As far as the price to get someone to print it for you I can't really tell since I do have a printer it only cost me the minimal amount for the plastic and nuts and bolts.  I will say that an increasing number of public libraries offer access to a 3D printer for not a lot of money.

 

[Birdhunter]

I’ve read this thread a couple of times and, except for gaining a few inches of cutting depth, why would one want to use a back fence?

A few lined up dogs provide a reference for the wood and the rail is easily aligned 90 degrees to the holes. My protractor and my fence have never been used. If I was cutting something other than 90 or 45, I’d use the protractor..... maybe.

 

[GoingMyWay]

I need the back fence for cutting narrow stock.

 

[DynaGlide]

I’ve read this thread a couple of times and, except for gaining a few inches of cutting depth, why would one want to use a back fence?

A few lined up dogs provide a reference for the wood and the rail is easily aligned 90 degrees to the holes. My protractor and my fence have never been used. If I was cutting something other than 90 or 45, I’d use the protractor..... maybe.

For me it's about consistency and ease of use... Dogs don't allow me to use multiple stops at pre calibrated inch and metric scales, I even have one in the off cut side

 

[Birdhunter]

Neat idea. I just use a stop on the offset side much like I do on my table saw. I guess everyone develops techniques that work for their needs. This is a great from to learn other's tricks. Also, I seldom measure. I usually use trial pieces.

 

[Gregor]

I’ve read this thread a couple of times and, except for gaining a few inches of cutting depth, why would one want to use a back fence?

Stops stuff from falling down the back of the table.
Also it's easier to slide stuff into position, compared to dogs (YMMV on this).

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] That's a heck of a setup you have there  [drooling]

It would cost me 3k taxes includes  [tongue]

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member] Craigslist  [cool] I paid half or less for two of them

 

[friendly118]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] [member=14226]sprior[/member]

Here is the solution I came to. I routed a 3/4” wide 5mm grove to hold a 26” strip of ply. This allowed me to move the fence back another 1 1/2” behind the last row of dog holes.

 

[johnyhuh]

I haven't been able to find an answer about using the MFT/3 without the protractor head.  My local tool shop has let me borrow an additional fence rail clamp as I saw this from Paul Marcel.  But he has a 1080 table no the MFT/3.  There is a bit of slop in the profile when the clamp is in place.  It doesn't matter how tight I set the clamps it still moves.  I am trying to accomplish this because my MFT is a more permanent fixture and space is at a premium in my work area.  Removing the protractor head gives me better than 7" of space.  In the images you can see the difference in fence position.

I tried this solution and the slope is certainly there. Here’s my 5-cent attempt:

 

[dawatson833]

This is an older post, but I'm also changing my mft to use it without the protractor.
User DynaGlide shows pictures of how the top knob should be positioned.
I don't see the difference between the two pictures.  What do the different positions accomplish?

 

[johnyhuh]

This is an older post, but I'm also changing my mft to use it without the protractor.
User DynaGlide shows pictures of how the top knob should be positioned.
I don't see the difference between the two pictures.  What do the different positions accomplish?

As far as I can see, the only difference is a shift of few mms to the back of the table.