MFT Aux Fence

JimmyB1775

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Joined
Nov 6, 2017
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When I work with pieces lets say in the 14"x15" type range, the MFT doesn't have sufficient fence contact on a shorter workpiece. I've done some things like add a sacrificial fence and clamp it down to the right of the cut but I have a feeling yall have a genius hack for it. To be clear, I just want a faux fence to continue to the OTHER side of the cut so my smaller pieces are actually square. The width of the track is too much to give the workpiece sufficient contact on the squaring edge.
 
Im having a hard time visualizing what your asking. If you could post some photos that might be helpful
 
On my "cross cut" MFT, I bolted the fence down with about 6" of fence to the right of the rail. Cut through it with the TS 55.

Tom
 
Ok. So I know everyone here is a moron, so I’ll let you know a little back.  If you lay the fence down flat, it goes *UNDER* the track providing support almost all the way to the cut line.  🤯🤯🤯.  Relax y’all.  I’ll read the manual for all of us. 🤓

Seriously though.... I feel like an idiot not realizing it before.
 
tjbnwi said:
On my "cross cut" MFT, I bolted the fence down with about 6" of fence to the right of the rail. Cut through it with the TS 55.

Tom

You cut through it??? with what blade????
 
JimmyB1775 said:
tjbnwi said:
On my "cross cut" MFT, I bolted the fence down with about 6" of fence to the right of the rail. Cut through it with the TS 55.

Tom

You cut through it??? with what blade????

Yes I cut through it, have no qualms about doing it. I used the TS 55 with the same blade I cut wood with. The aluminum is softer than most woods I cut.

Got a better one for you---I put the CMT TS 75 fiber cement board blade on the Kapex to cut fiber cement siding..... :o

Tom
 
Many have unintentionally cut thru the fence.....(and didn’t even realize it)...some may not want to admit it ...but we have
 
tomp said:
Here is another way to do it

What am I missing here?

Per the video:
Square up the piece of wood to be cut with a square to the fence, then remove the square and grab another piece of wood making sure it's also square, then find 2 more pieces of wood the correct thickness for shim stock placing all 4 pieces of wood under the TS rail and then make the cut.  [eek]  [eek]

Why not just use a miter saw?
 
I don't own or need an MFT table, but if I were someone pondering getting one for use with a track saw, after reading discussions on squaring, etc, and this thread, my conclusion had to be a no answer. It is so complicated or expensive (when you add up all the squaring solutions/accessories) to make simple, repetitive square/narrow cuts that woodworking is no longer fun (I'm a hobbyist).

While track saws are good for sizing down large sheets, they are not meant to replace a table saw or mitre saw. There is no shop rule that says we can only have one type of saw in our shop. Declaration: I disposed of my TS75 after not finding enough use of it over a two-year period. I use plywood stock sparingly. Everything is now done on the table saw, band saw, jig saw, scrollsaw or mitre saw; only occasionally with a circular saw.
 
I love my plunge saws but, more as a compliment to my other tools. Having said that, with a bit of thought you can do an awful lot with a plunge saw, providing that it is set up square.
I can remember a few occasions where we’ve been tight for space, often using somebody’s small garage for shelter, using an MFT and plunge saw, to make small cabinets and boxes. We cut the panels, miters and rebates etc all with the MFT and plunge saw with great results.
Sure narrow cuts can be a challenge but, all doable.
 
Here's another approach to the auxiliary fence problem with some good information otherwise.
His description of the right-side fence starts between 11 and twelve minutes.


As a side note, the fence for the MFT-800 should be orderable and is shown as slightly cheaper than the MFT/3 fence in the parts catalog.
 
ChuckM said:
I don't own or need an MFT table, but if I were someone pondering getting one for use with a track saw, after reading discussions on squaring, etc, and this thread, my conclusion had to be a no answer. It is so complicated or expensive (when you add up all the squaring solutions/accessories) to make simple, repetitive square/narrow cuts that woodworking is no longer fun (I'm a hobbyist).

While track saws are good for sizing down large sheets, they are not meant to replace a table saw or mitre saw. There is no shop rule that says we can only have one type of saw in our shop. Declaration: I disposed of my TS75 after not finding enough use of it over a two-year period. I use plywood stock sparingly. Everything is now done on the table saw, band saw, jig saw, scrollsaw or mitre saw; only occasionally with a circular saw.

I never thought of the MFT as a source of entertainment. It’s just a good tool. In my opinion as designed and delivered it strikes a good compromise between portability and stability, and between speed and precision.

Some people enjoy the process of tricking it out with expensive extras but it isn’t necessary. Just take the cheapest square you can find and a 1/4 sheet to plywood and the follow the instructions for the 4 cut method found in the Kapex supplemental manual and in less than a half hour you’ll have the fence set way more than square enough. Then save that piece you cut to make the fence square again after in the future after moving the fence to cut other angles. Nothing to it.

The pattern of holes are for putting clamps through. It’s not the Holy Grid.
 
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