MFT Horses?

Scorpion

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Joined
Jan 15, 2014
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587
I built an MFT that's been working out great around the shop for some time now.  It's on the smaller size (30x48) and haven't needed anything bigger for projects since I built it.  Today, on the other hand, was a different story.  I wanted to assemble a 72 x 38-inch extrusion frame that will eventually support an assembly table - I get it's ironic that I'd need an assembly table to assemble my assembly table.  In the process of figuring out how I'd make it work I pulled out my Dewalt saw horses.  I noticed that with the miter saw supports it was just under 3-inches shorter than my MFT.

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My initial thought was a pair of 2x4's trimmed to the right height and a piece of ply for a work surface.  One of my character flaws is I can turn any 15 minute project into an all day project. I found out I didn't have even 6-inches of a 2x4 so I started fiddlin' around and when I was done, I had essentially built another MFT. The oblong slots in the box allow me to put my hand through and squeeze the release levers so I can remove it from the saw horse. The holes were machined using my router base and peg-board trick.

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I also drilled the sides and ends so I could clamp on all surfaces. I built up the base with some scrap to get the exact height (though a washer ended up being the final touch to get the exact height).

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And laminated the surface like the rest of the MFT's.

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Then while I was about to assemble the other top I had an idea. I made some bushings out of aluminum that fit my 3/4-inch holes.

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And modified a french cleat to have the same 4 inch wide hole spacing as the MFT's holes so I could attach the cleat to the table in any of the locations where holes exist.

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And now I can hang my tools, accessories, and other odds and ends off the side of the table so they're not taking up space.

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Since all of my screw boxes have cleats off the back of them they can also hang off the side which keeps them easily accessible during assembly but not actually on the work surface which is really nice.

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And I had to make a slight tweak to the Festool clamp rack I had previously made so it would sit nice and flush with the work surface. Now I can move the whole rack to the table and it's easier to get them out of the way instead of clamping them to the table itself.

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With the luxury of having more space I can now assemble the second one by using the first one. Having the MFT and the MFT-Horse I can now machine on one and assemble on the other which prevents me from moving things around during assembly - extremely nice.

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As soon as the second one is finished I played with a couple of different setups. Here's one clamped on either side of the MFT if I need a bigger table.

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After moving them around a couple of ways this is what I think is the most likely configuration for most projects.

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Talk about getting side-tracked. I started off wanting to work on the long MFT frame and instead I ended making a pair of smaller tables. I'm a little disappointed I didn't think of building them in the first place.

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ChrisK1970 said:
Wow, that is really slick. For the top did you CNC that yourself?

No, it's Me-NC.    [eek]

I made this base plate for my router for a previous MFT project.  All of the little holes on the sides are tapped 1/4 20tpi.

RouterPlate2.JPG


I turned the heads off of four bolts so they'd essentially be pins.

RouterPlate3.JPG


and they thread in to the base plate.

RouterPlate4.JPG


So I can use pegboard sheets for hole indexing.

RouterPlate7.JPG


I had to pay attention the first time but now when I drop the pegboard onto the surface I want to machine it's stupid easy.  I plunge with a 1/2-inch upcut bit first and then go back and use a 3/4 bit on the second pass for the final cut.  Got the idea from a friend who used to use pegboard as a guide to drill his shelving dowel holes.  He'd keep a couple of 4x8's in the shop and then cut and mark them as needed and showed me maybe 10 years ago when I stopped by the shop.  Using the idea for the MFT tops didn't hit me until about 6 months ago.  Works like a charm.
 
Attaching that to the miter supports is just genius  [smile]

I can see this spawning a new batch of MFT designs.
 
I'm as impressed with the jig as I am with the mini-mft idea! What machining equipment did you use to make such a nice looking and accurate jig?
 
Thanks everyone for your compliments!

Alan m] lovely  jig. I'm sure there would be a market for a jig like that. [/quote] I'm amazed that there isn't already to be honest.  I could see Woodpeckers making one as something like this is right up their alley.  The baseplate itself could be made much smaller for a smaller plunge router though the wider the spacing the more accurate the alignment is so there is a break over point and they can't be made too small.  I've been thinking about making a smaller one for my mini-router to see if I can accomplish the same results while taking up less space. Since you got me thinking I searched to see if anyone makes one.  I didn't find any however there have been others talking about doing the same thing as I have here on this forum as well as others but I haven't been able to find any pictures of their fixtures or results.   [quote author=wow said:
I'm as impressed with the jig as I am with the mini-mft idea! What machining equipment did you use to make such a nice looking and accurate jig?

I used a knee mill to machine the plate.  Mine happens to be CNC but the same precision can be had with a manual one with a digital read out it would just take a little longer.  With three of the four pins the location of the cutter is nearly perfect.  With the fourth the repeatability is disturbing however I haven't taken the time to measure the pegboard to see if it's holes are consistently spaced or not so I get whatever tolerance that the board has.  Based on the consistency of the sheets I see at the store it appears they're punched in a single operation so I'm sure they're fairly consistent.
 
So previously I stated that the pins needed to be far (further) apart to keep the router from moving.  While doing other things in the garage it occurred to me that the width shouldn't matter as long as you have 3 points so technically a plate should be able to have pins much closer than the fixture I'm using - the original size was necessary because the plunge base for the 690 is massive..  This being said, I already dislike the size of the plate I have because there are some cases where I have to move clamps more than a couple times to drill all of the holes due to space limitations.  If the plate was even 2 inches shorter I'd rarely have to move the plate at all.  So I made a smaller one to see if the width of the pattern really did matter.  The short answer is no - the fixture fits just as tightly and moves just as little on a smaller pattern (about half) than the bigger pattern and the results repeat easily.  

MiniRouterPlate.JPG
 
Great idea just wondering how sturdy is it? Do you get a lot of movement frint 2 back?
 
Sparky said:
Great idea just wondering how sturdy is it? Do you get a lot of movement frint 2 back?

I'm a machinist (by previous trade) so I don't like to use terms like "barely" or "minimal" as they're subjective.  I've never actually attempted to evaluate the accuracy of the holes so I thought I'd give it a try just to see (since ya asked anyway).  Keep in mind that when cutting the holes it's a down only motion so there's not much pressure front to back to elongate the holes which should help keep the spacing more accurate.

Here's the results of measuring a 2 x grid of holes measuring the amount of material between the holes using a caliper.  Keep in mind that doing so I'd need to add 2 x the radius of the cutter to the measurement to get the center to center measurement and that the calipers have a shape tag on them which likely digs into the wood a hair but since these holes were fresh and I'd never measured before, I'm assuming that the dig-in could explain the variance and also cause inaccuracies in measurements.  Regardless, the numbers are darn close.

3.253, 3.261, 3.358, 3.258, 3.252, 3.258

MFTHole1.jpg

MFTHole2.jpg

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Not sure what all of this tells me other than the pattern is accurate enough for what I'm using it for.  I've read that some of the Festool MFT tops are much less accurate but that would make sense considering they're probably cut on a machine that has a little backlash in the screws from running all out for hours on end.  If I did the same thing with the pegboard I'd end up with slop a soon as the holes in the board got used enough.
 
Scorpion,
Do you have dimensions , Dwg's or sketchup file for the top and Dewalt Clamps?
Tbear
 
tbear said:
Scorpion,
Do you have dimensions , Dwg's or sketchup file for the top and Dewalt Clamps?
Tbear

This weekend I'll put something together and share.
 
Scorpion,
Great tables. Curious if you ended up sharing the dimensions. I totally understand you posted this 18 months-ago, but wanted to ask just in case.

Either way, thanks for sharing all the details you already have. Your project motivated me to make a couple smaller mft tables I might be able to use inside during the cold winter months here in Minnesota. I have a couple Paulk benches that stay set up in the garage much of the year, but they have to get stored away once the snow flies to make room for vehicles.

Anyhow, thanks to you and others in this forum for taking the time to post about this project.
Scorpion said:
tbear said:
Scorpion,
Do you have dimensions , Dwg's or sketchup file for the top and Dewalt Clamps?
Tbear

This weekend I'll put something together and share.
 
loved your table why did you do the 4 inch spacing on the side for the french cleat.will you have any plans for this
 
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