MFT + TS55 instead of Unisaw, need advise

[chughes]

  Mr. Peer,  thats what I'm talking about.  Theres a lot of architecture in them saws.  I use my moulder head a bunch.  The beaded panel on "honeydomans" project, beaded face frames, fluting and so much more.  Not possible without a table saw.  But I still love my ts 75. 

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Kevin,
I went a different route.  I started with a TS-55 and MFT and tried to have a tablesaw-less hobby shop for about 6 months.  Repetitive ripping and thick stock are the weaknesses with this system...doable but not easy to be dead nuts accurate on long, narrow rips.  I found a great deal on an older Unisaw.  Refurbed it and added a Beis. fence, extension table w/router insert.  The TS-55/MFT1080 is my crosscut/sanding/anything involving handheld powertools station.  The Unisaw is my ripping, routertable and extra horizontal space to put junk.  The MFT also serves an an infeed table for the Unisaw for extralong stock.  If space is an issue you can use the MFT as an out feed or extension table for your Unisaw.  Search the photos for a way to add wooden extenions to the legs to get the MFT even with your Unisaw or you can disconnect the legs and mount the MFT to a rolling cart even with your desired height.

Mark

I agree with those who recommend keeping the table saw at least until you determine your needs for your projects.  Personally, I like the idea of having as much flexibility of setups as possible because sometimes it is easier to move the tool over the workpiece (Festool) and other times it is easier to move the workpiece over the tool (table saw and router table).  I am also in Ohio, but have the luxury of heat in my 15' x 25' garage shop when I want it (and want to pay for it).  After working with a Shopsmith for many years, I purchased a TS 55, 1400 router and and MFT 1080.  At about the same time I also purchased a General 2 HP hybrid table saw and equipped it with a JoinTech setup capable of two router stations.  The table saw is on a mobile base.   My only regret is buying a 36 inch extension table, I have yet to use that full width, preferring to do such cuts using Festool/MFT.  Last night I needed to cut and mitre pieces of prefinished molding for a couple of picture frames for my wife.  The frame material cost about $10/ft.  I used the table saw with a basic Inca mitre gauge - dead on and very simple to set up for the repeat cuts.   I think use of Festool TS 55 and MFT would have required more setup time, and included greater risk of damaging the finished surfaces of the molding (only the back face of the molding is flat).   And the TS provides another table on which to assemble projects or to temporarily stack pieces of stock during preparation.  I also keep a small sedan in this garage which I move out when in full shop mode.

Dave R

 

[gkeas]

I don't currently have a table saw, but I intend (after using the TS55 and MFT1080 for several months, now) on buying a bench top table saw to use for long rips on narrow stock, and for high volume repeat cuts on smaller panels.  I love the Festool stuff, but I haven't been happy with my solutions to cut long narrow stock consistantly.  I'd say to hold on to the UNI and see.

I am just a hobbyist, BTW.

 

[Greg_R]

I don't see myself getting rid of my Unisaw but I am seriously considering downsizing the fence (from 55" to 30" or smaller).  The extra 2'+ of floor space would be very nice!

 

[fidelfs]

Don't do it.  It is a nuisance having the extra fence but when you need it and you don't have it  .

Murphy law will apply here.

I seldom use the 55" but sometimes is required.  I have a small two car garage and my wife mandates to have her car parked inside.

 

[johnbro]

I don't see myself getting rid of my Unisaw but I am seriously considering downsizing the fence (from 55" to 30" or smaller).  The extra 2'+ of floor space would be very nice!

Exactly my recommendation. I initially thought the Festool lashup would eliminate the need for both a TS and a CMS. In the end I wound up with (in addition to the TS-55 and MFT) a PM66 with 30 inch rails and a Makita SCMS.

--Sheet goods all get cut with the TS-55, usually on the floor on pink foam
--Cross-cutting all takes place on the SCMS, as does miter cuts
--Ripping is the TS or sometimes the BS.

One thing I like a lot about the TS is the repeatability of cuts with the fence. My fence is exactly calibrated so I don't have to measure before I cut, and as long as I don't move the fence all the pieces with be EXACTLY the same width, not close, exactly. That's not something Festool is good at yet.

TS-55 and MFT are really good for single cuts--set it up and go. TS, CMS are good for multiple repeat cuts, set it up and just repeat over and over. Identical results. Good as the MFT is, its ability to do repeat cuts is a little weak compared with a fixed fence design. Even if they fixed the fence you would still have to lift the rail, position the piece, put the saw on it, etc. Slow compared to a TS where you're just slamming wood through.

Keep your Uni and get some short rails. You won't need to cut wide stuff on it anymore...

 

[kfitzsimons]

A lot of food for thought...  So far my decision is to keep the TS and see how the project season goes.  I'm going to purchase the MFT 1080 when the new one comes out, purchase a good selection of clamps, and use it for layout, gluing, sanding, etc.  No luck selling my Elu routers so far, so I might be keeping them too.  I need to find ways to reduce the sawdust though.  That's a huge selling point to the Festool system.  The Elu's are great routers, but no dust collection built in.  Larry Smith of Festool did show me how to adapt my 3338 router to work with the guide fence with a little modification and the guide stop for the 1400.  Now if I could just attach the 1400's dust hood to my Elu...  I'll see what a machine shop might be able to come up with.

 

[Lancashire Fusilier]

Perhaps a little spoilt down here with the CMS which when coupled with the MFT offers I believe all of the combined advantages with the price of just one saw. Great for the hobbiest I would suggest.

 

[HowardH]

Having the 55 and a few guiderails of different lengths, I can't see any reason to have a 52" rip capacity in a table saw.  A major plus of the TS55 is the ability to breakdown sheet goods safely into manageable sizes when you are doing things alone, which for me, is about 99% of the time.  The wide table saws take up a lot of room and a 30 or 36" capacity would suffice, IMO, for the majority of cuts for the hobbiest.  I have a BT3100 at the moment and I'm waiting for some commission $$$ to come in so I can get a 36" sawstop.  It's not a bad saw but I find it dangerous because it is so light and underpowered.  It's pretty easy to tip it off it's legs if you have to push a bit on the stock to get it through.  I still see the table saw as the centerpiece of a woodworker's shop, especially if you don't do it for a living and have to go a job site everyday.

 

[kfitzsimons]

I like the reasoning that a "narrow" table saw has a place in a shop for repetitive cutting of narrow stock.  The big disadvantage of the table saw is the chance for kick-back.  I'm going to look into a good splitter for that issue.  The older I get, the more concerned I am about safety.  It's about time and I've been very lucky so far.

 

[Ned]

Now if I could just attach the 1400's dust hood to my Elu...  I'll see what a machine shop might be able to come up with.

Before you go to that trouble...have you checked with a Elu (Black & Decker?) service center?  Better dust collection might be available as a spare part, not very well publicized.  If the parts exist, likely better and much cheaper than anything you'd have made.

Ned

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I am a hobbyist and I have all my equipment in my non AC garage.  My garage faces the afternoon sun directly there is no tree or anything for shade.  I live in Houston, TX so I am also limited to 3 seasons.  I don't woodwork during the hot humid humid humid humid summer.

I think your next tool should be an airconditioner!

 

[fidelfs]

I think your next tool should be an airconditioner!

I know, the AC will be the tool I will use the most  and It will make me cool  8)

Fidel

 

[HowardH]

I also live where it's hotter than a two dollar pistol during the summers (dallas area).    I almost broke down last summer to buy a one of those portable AC's that are out now.  The seem pretty good and you have to stick an exhaust hose out the door somehow.  I'll probably go ahead and do it this summer.  I'll make some room along a wall and cut a small opening to exhaust the hot air.  My wife would like that for me as well... 

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Many of the newer table saws are being designed with splitters.  My 2 year old General 2 HP hybrid has a mounting point that tilts with the saw, to which the factory installs the overblade guard/anti-kickback device.  That mounting point can be used to install a splitter.  A splitter can be made from a piece of sheet steel.  It could also be made by disassembling the factory overblade guard.  I am considering doing this because I use Gripper hold-down push blocks when ripping.  If your saw doesn't have provision for mounting a splitter that tilts with the saw blade, and ripping is with the blade set at 90 degrees, you could also install a micro splitter into your table insert.

Dave R.