MFT vs Table Saw

[ChuckM]

There're tasks that the tracksaw is ill-equipped to do (i.e. relatively much harder to do) compared to a table saw, such as these:

1) Cutting V-grooves
2) Cutting bevels like those on a cabinet door
3) Cutting dadoes
4) Cutting various joints like T&G, dovetails etc.
5) Cutting circles.

But a table saw can't handle plunge cuts for a kitchen sink either!

 

[Packard]

I get it, in some cases (like Sam cutting parts curved in the opposite plane) but these guys cutting absolutely flat parts? It's just lazy/stupid. Plus, the blade is far more stable, when the upper guide is down where it should be.
You attempt to follow a curve and the blade twists with the part and continues to cut somewhat straight, until suddenly the pressure on the back of the blade is enough, then it tends to over-cut. Far better results come from proper adjustment. A bandsaw, when adjusted correctly, is one of the safest tools in the shop. The blade is almost completely covered by the workpiece and it cannot kick-back, but you can turn it into a dismembering device in seconds.

You can buy commercial grade (intended for tool rooms) band saws for ridiculously little money.  A few years ago the company I worked for bought a fully functioning Do-All band saw with blade welding capabilities for $400.00.  It cost more than that to hire a rigger to deliver it.  It was also too tall for my shop and too heavy to carry in.

There is a sudden jump from woodworking band saws and machine shop band saws.  The machine shop saws are about twice as beefy and (probably) 3 to 4 times heavier.  Surprisingly the used metal working band saws are generally cheaper than the used woodworking band saws.  The saw at our shop had about a 12” throat.  So ripping widths would be limited.  And no real fence, but it had T-slots to mount almost anything to the table.

 

[Coen]

Ooh, I thought "TS" in the opening post meant "TauchSäge" and was confused. But it's used for tablesaw. Now I get it  [tongue]

Yeah, full sheets... I don't use a table saw for that. Would need a huge saw for that anyway. Cutting quarter sheets along the short (610mm) side; sure. But that's about it.

The stock MFT won't work with full sheets either. But you can DIY a bigger one, put multiple next to each other etc. etc.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Me too [member=8955]Coen[/member] the TS in the original post had me confused for a second.

 

[pgurnee]

Been awhile. I went back to work April 12th. I could just touch tip of thumb to tip of index finger but had little strength in that touch. As I am the boss I did not have to answer to anyone and I just went slow and steady. The home owners were glad to have the project back up and running. I bought the sawstop. It is an excellent saw. Only one small adjustment was necessary to the geared track on the front of the saw. Like it.
I have 75% of my grip strength back. I have little feeling in the top knuckle of my thumb and fine motor skill is limited.
Hardware, like lock sets, etc are a chore.

10 days ago my Kapex sparked...slowed way down...smelled right bad...did not actually smoke but is Clearly toast.
My local dealer sent it to Indiana...$950 repair. Considering getting it back and following the pdf instructions for armature replacement in the stickies. Don't know if I can handle the little screws and springs though.

I knew about the armature issues in 2018 when I bought it. I generally baby my tools so I figured I could be one of the happy owners. Oops.
I understand that Festool did a recall in Europe for the kapex many years ago but dont remember the issue... don't understand why they will not own this armature failure issue here. Now actually faced with the repair I am very hesitant.
Except I have test driven a few saws now. None hold a candle to the things I like about the kapex.
I don't need to preach to the choir, you know.

Closest thing I found is a Metabo. The only tool repair shop in our county sells them along with all the other big names.
The tech manager says the metabo is as well built as any of the other more well known brands.

On the one hand I am happy to even have to make this decision, on the other I am very disappointed.

 

[ChuckM]

Yeah. The written pdf is good for those who are familiar with or skilled in that kind of repair stuff.

That said, someone just posted a video showing how to replace the armature, which is clear and helpful to anyone who wants to fix the Kapex saw for just the cost of the parts ($300 US?).

 

[festal]

Yeah. The written pdf is good for those who are familiar with or skilled in that kind of repair stuff.

That said, someone just posted a video showing how to replace the armature, which is clear and helpful to anyone who wants to fix the Kapex saw for just the cost of the parts ($300 US?).

Do you happen to have a link to the video?  Need to be prepared as I recently picked up KS120EB which works for now but you never know

 

[ChuckM]

Here:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ing-kapex-armature-video/msg719741/#msg719741

 

[HighlandMarine]

Dash-Board® products allow the use of track saws to replace a majority of tasks (not all) traditionally accomplished with a table saw, including narrow rips, safely and very accurately.

Rob beat me to it, I work without a table saw and the Dashboard PWS makes thin rips and accurate repeatable cuts. Once you’ve figured out work flows and processes with the system it can be efficient. There is a learning curve, but I’ve found it to be better than I expected.(I expected a lot from this unit for the price, it’s more than delivered)