Mft

[Papajoe]

I wonder if everyone use the mft set as build, without changes to hinge plates, the fence system, ect. Are the standard components not accurate? Loose repeatability? Not as productive? I’m trying to figure out if I the extra expense is really worth the investment?
Thanks Joseph

 

[ChuckM]

I can tell you that of all the Festool products that I own or have used, such as the MFT, I find them performing as designed without the need for any after-market accessories. (Edit: The MFT I used was set up by someone, and I used it to prepare 6 sets of materials, and they all came out, including angled pieces, as straight and square as I would've got with a cabinet saw.)

However, that doesn't mean every user feels the same because of difference in knowledge and experience, work methods, user techniques, user preferences, specific user requirements, and even preparations (e.g. is the MFT properly assembled and set up?).

To be really good at something, you need to be willing to learn and spend time in mastering it, whether it's the MFT or a tracksaw or a Domino Joiner.

Take a look at the Festool project videos, (e.g., by Brent Shively). Everything is done on Festool tools without any non-Festool accessories

 

[mino]

Seconding.

The MFT/3 fence/hinge system is a great middle ground/starting point. Most people find it adequate and it is a pretty good value actually. More so when purchased in the MFT/3 set.

The various upgraded/improved hinge option go for $200+ while the Festool hinge set is in the $100 range standalone, cheaper when in the set.

The only cases where getting the MFT standalone makes sense to me is if one wants the smaller "KAPEX" MFT or when a second MFT is being added. If it is your first, just get the set version. It is well worth it.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

The stock MFT/3 accessories work just fine. Of course, adding the aftermarket components can ease work flow, creature comforts, etc..., I suppose it depends on what you want to produce?

 

[jeffinsgf]

I probably shouldn't join this conversation, since mine is an older 1080 rather than an  MFT/3, but I'm going to anyway.  [big grin]

I was perfectly satisfied with my MFT 1080 as designed. Then I watched one of Paul Marcel's videos, rearranged how I set up the 1080 and am even more satisfied. Paul's method doesn't use anything not made by Festool and only a couple extra parts that you didn't get in the original kit. Luckily, I already had two of just about everything (I have an 800 and a 1080), so it came together without spending any money at all. But, if I had to go back to using it as designed, I wouldn't mind. Basically, Paul figured out how to steal back about 8 inches of extra cutting capacity.

All that said, after messing with an MFT/3 at work a few times, I wouldn't trade my 1080 for a new one.

 

[Lincoln]

I recently bought an MFT 'set' - my original plan was to buy the table only and use an aftermarket hinge, but we can't get the 'basic' down here anymore.
The rail hinge set up is better than I thought it would be, but I did buy the TSO upgrade kit, which is a great improvement and allows you to confidently use most of the supplied hardware.
The fence is fine, I added a self adhesive tape measure to it and a second swing stop.
I added the cross braces, which make a big difference to stability.
I planned on making an extension to increase the work surface, but ended up buying the MW1000 'side extension' which fits to the MFT extrusion.

 

[Sparktrician]

To be really good at something, you need to be willing to learn and spend time in mastering it, whether it's the MFT or a tracksaw or a Domino Joiner.

I concur wholeheartedly!  If you choose to go with the MFT, you will need to learn when and how to ensure that the rail is properly aligned with the fence.  This post describes my method or ensuring that the rail is square with the fence, recognizing that the rail will shift slightly when raised or lowered.  [smile]

 

[ChuckM]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

Thx for the endorsement.

 

[FestitaMakool]

I’ve yet to use mine for cutting..
But! I have enjoyed using it setting up various jigs for repeatable assemblies and routing dadoes
with the OF 1010 for window casings. It’s nitpicking and needs to have the correct length and 90° angle to fit and look well. Any fault shows up very soon when the trim comes on.

I haven’t seen a real need to add any “upgrades” - I think it’s better to assess that at a point where you need or want.

One thing I’ll do soon, is to bend the tab that slots into the rail and mount a piece of that white semi-hard hard wearing plastic (UHMW?) onto the tab that I’ll cut/sand to a tight fit to the groove. And make it replaceable to replace once it has worn out. It’ll be easier on the rail(s) too  [smile]

 

[sancho57]

I found that the OEM hinges were a bit fussy. Yea they worked cut accurately but if ya bump them, change the height ect then Id have to readjust them. I went and got the TSO products hinge up grade. I havent had to fool with the hinges ever since. They are dead nuts on and solid once adjusted ya dont need to readjust if you raise or lower the rail
https://tsoproducts.com/workstations-components/mft-aligned-guide-rail-support-upgrade-kit/

 

[Michael Kellough]

I think it’s kinda like playing a guitar. If you have enough skill a basic setup can produce fine results.

But jobsworth is right, the weak point of the MFT is height adjustment. If you need to change heights frequently it might be worth investing in the Dashboards or TSO upgrades.

 

[waho6o9]

I like using a couple of MFT tops on a work table as the configurations aren't restricted.

View attachment 1

 

[mcfal12]

Depending on how you’re setting your mft up, you might find this self adjusting (height) modification useful as an alternative for the track. I bought the dashboard hinge as the festool height adjustment was cumbersome to me. The dashboard solution is better but a solution like this is what is really needed.
=244s

I really would like to also see a retractable rail solution integrated into the festool, dashboard or TSO solution.
=300s

The only reason I haven’t built either of these for myself is I have mobility needs versus a static shop setting and both of these solutions work best in a fixed shop.

 

[Ebuwan]

I've got a bunch of MFT's and they are good with all the OEM stuff.

Some notes that i've learned:

I like to setup out in my driveway; my driveway is NOT flat. This does impact, at east in my experience, repeatability, unless you go through a lot of fuss getting the table(s) to level.

With one table, in my uneven driveway, it's A-ok and doesn't take too long to fuss. I was breaking down a lot of Melamine, so i was using two or even three MFT's in a row, all connected. This was because i had 3'x8' pieces of Melamine, that i had broken down with parallel guides, so pieces were long and heavy. I kept getting not square cuts; setup the fence and rail with the Woodpeckers MFT square, check it with the giant woodpeckers square, etc etc. The weight of the melamine was forcing the fence out of square ever so slightly. I had to just do rough breakdown cuts, then work with the smaller pieces.

Just my experience; I can get square off it, but not enough where i'm comfortable not to have to check it constantly; unlike my table saw that just stays square. I've look hard at the dashboard hardware, just haven't pulled the trigger, cuz i'll be really ticked when that doesn't help with my issues lol.

ALSO, I have NEVER EVER been able to get square off the mft holes; on an old mft top, a brand new MFT top, etc. All of em the holes have the tiniest bit of play here and there.

 

[dashboardpws]

I've got a bunch of MFT's and they are good with all the OEM stuff.

Some notes that i've learned:

I like to setup out in my driveway; my driveway is NOT flat. This does impact, at east in my experience, repeatability, unless you go through a lot of fuss getting the table(s) to level.

With one table, in my uneven driveway, it's A-ok and doesn't take too long to fuss. I was breaking down a lot of Melamine, so i was using two or even three MFT's in a row, all connected. This was because i had 3'x8' pieces of Melamine, that i had broken down with parallel guides, so pieces were long and heavy. I kept getting not square cuts; setup the fence and rail with the Woodpeckers MFT square, check it with the giant woodpeckers square, etc etc. The weight of the melamine was forcing the fence out of square ever so slightly. I had to just do rough breakdown cuts, then work with the smaller pieces.

Just my experience; I can get square off it, but not enough where i'm comfortable not to have to check it constantly; unlike my table saw that just stays square. I've look hard at the dashboard hardware, just haven't pulled the trigger, cuz i'll be really ticked when that doesn't help with my issues lol.

ALSO, I have NEVER EVER been able to get square off the mft holes; on an old mft top, a brand new MFT top, etc. All of em the holes have the tiniest bit of play here and there.

Our system comprehensively answers your concerns.

 

[Ebuwan]

I've had a browser tab open for the MFT Sanity bundle ever since i posted my last reply here, haha.

 

[Ebuwan]

I've got a bunch of MFT's and they are good with all the OEM stuff.

Some notes that i've learned:

I like to setup out in my driveway; my driveway is NOT flat. This does impact, at east in my experience, repeatability, unless you go through a lot of fuss getting the table(s) to level.

With one table, in my uneven driveway, it's A-ok and doesn't take too long to fuss. I was breaking down a lot of Melamine, so i was using two or even three MFT's in a row, all connected. This was because i had 3'x8' pieces of Melamine, that i had broken down with parallel guides, so pieces were long and heavy. I kept getting not square cuts; setup the fence and rail with the Woodpeckers MFT square, check it with the giant woodpeckers square, etc etc. The weight of the melamine was forcing the fence out of square ever so slightly. I had to just do rough breakdown cuts, then work with the smaller pieces.

Just my experience; I can get square off it, but not enough where i'm comfortable not to have to check it constantly; unlike my table saw that just stays square. I've look hard at the dashboard hardware, just haven't pulled the trigger, cuz i'll be really ticked when that doesn't help with my issues lol.

ALSO, I have NEVER EVER been able to get square off the mft holes; on an old mft top, a brand new MFT top, etc. All of em the holes have the tiniest bit of play here and there.

Our system comprehensively answers your concerns.

I did it, i pulled the trigger! Now I will stare at my front door waiting for the package arrival.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I did it, i pulled the trigger! Now I will stare at my front door waiting for the package arrival.

Don't even blink!

That will be the instant you find a card left saying "we attempted delivery but no-one answered" and you can now pick it up from the depot 10km away after pm!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I did it, i pulled the trigger! Now I will stare at my front door waiting for the package arrival.

Don't even blink!

That will be the instant you find a card left saying "we attempted delivery but no-one answered" and you can now pick it up from the depot 10km away after pm!

That's the beauty of having everything delivered to a commercial address. I can depend on them being there before noon, with a wave and a smile.....unless it's USPS  [unsure]

 

[rst]

I use my MFTs with original parts, my only modifications were making an insert to negate any slop on the hinge pin and I routed a dovetail slot to accept a UHMW insert for the kerf.  I use mine mostly for commercial plastic fabrication and it is perfectly presice for me