MFT3 table modification

[Out of Square]

Hi has anyone here modified their MFT3 for a sacrificial kerf board imbedded in the top of the factory MDF?
If so can you explain the your process you used and what material?

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[guybo]

Hi, this is what a vendor(tracktubes) has done on the top he sells

 

[Grev]

The TRACKTOP™ by TRACKTUBES™ uses a piece of 1/4" MDF, cut to be a friction fit.  I actually use painters tape to adjust the height up slightly if needed.

 

[Birdhunter]

I guess I am a tad crude, but I press 2-part expoxy wood filler into the kerf, let it harden and sand the top smooth.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

There is a Youtube channel called "10 minute workshop" He has done that to his top. If I remember correctly, his has tapered sidewalls, done with a dovetail bit. That traps the piece in, with no fasteners, while still remaining easy to change.

My personal cutting table has a removable end panel. The cut path is about 15" from the end of the table and there are no more 20mm holes out there. When the groove gets used up, I just replace the entire end. It takes just a few minutes, a few 6mm Dominos and 2 Zeta Clamex fasteners.
It takes quite a while to get is damaged badly enough to remove. Basically, making a bevel cut does it, so I avoid that if possible.

I guess I am a tad crude, but I press 2-part expoxy wood filler into the kerf, let it harden and sand the top smooth.

Autobody filler would do that too.

 

[derekcohen]

Note that the MDF top is intended to be replaced. Having said this, I built an insert into my shopmade hardwood MFT, and there is no reason it cannot be done with yours.



This is held in with a sliding dovetail ..



Here it is with the hinge I built ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Out of Square]

That looks awesome, thanks for sharing.
Is that a friction fit dovetail?

 

[Out of Square]

There is a Youtube channel called "10 minute workshop" He has done that to his top. If I remember correctly, his has tapered sidewalls, done with a dovetail bit. That traps the piece in, with no fasteners, while still remaining easy to change.

My personal cutting table has a removable end panel. The cut path is about 15" from the end of the table and there are no more 20mm holes out there. When the groove gets used up, I just replace the entire end. It takes just a few minutes, a few 6mm Dominos and 2 Zeta Clamex fasteners.
It takes quite a while to get is damaged badly enough to remove. Basically, making a bevel cut does it, so I avoid that if possible.

I guess I am a tad crude, but I press 2-part expoxy wood filler into the kerf, let it harden and sand the top smooth.

Autobody filler would do that too.

Thanks, I will check out that youtube channel to see if he demonstrates how to do it in real time.

 

[GoingMyWay]

Here's a video of Peter Millard (10 Minute Workshop) routing in a sacrificial strip into his MFT top (friction fit).


I believe he did another later video with a dovetail sacrificial strip.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

With a strip like that, it would be wise to set it off center, as has did here. That way you could turn it around for bevel cuts, rather that destroying it. This would extend its life.
The original kerf will last a very long time, as long as you don't bevel the saw. It gets instantly undercut at that point.

 

[Packard]

The TRACKTOP™ by TRACKTUBES™ uses a piece of 1/4" MDF, cut to be a friction fit.  I actually use painters tape to adjust the height up slightly if needed.

I would note this observation:

I built several work stations for my picture framing business.  When I closed that, I moved some of the work stations to my basement in my home. 

Several featured, basically a workbench height box made from particle board.  Top and bottom I made slots to accommodate vertical dividers to hold mat boards.  These were on 2” centers and the dividers were removable, to accommodate different colors of mat boards. 

After moving them to my basement the humidity caused the particle board to swell slightly and probably the tempered hard board dividers.  Where they used to slide easily in and out, they are now permanently installed.  I’ve even tried clamping on two vise grips and pulling, but they might as well be glued in place.

So, if you put a cut strip in, I would remove it frequently to check for fit.  You may have to sand the strip slightly to prevent it from “welding” in place. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

The TRACKTOP™ by TRACKTUBES™ uses a piece of 1/4" MDF, cut to be a friction fit.  I actually use painters tape to adjust the height up slightly if needed.

I would note this observation:

I built several work stations for my picture framing business.  When I closed that, I moved some of the work stations to my basement in my home. 

Several featured, basically a workbench height box made from particle board.  Top and bottom I made slots to accommodate vertical dividers to hold mat boards.  These were on 2” centers and the dividers were removable, to accommodate different colors of mat boards. 

After moving them to my basement the humidity caused the particle board to swell slightly and probably the tempered hard board dividers.  Where they used to slide easily in and out, they are now permanently installed.  I’ve even tried clamping on two vise grips and pulling, but they might as well be glued in place.

So, if you put a cut strip in, I would remove it frequently to check for fit.  You may have to sand the strip slightly to prevent it from “welding” in place.

Dehumidifier. Put a shelf the wall near the sink and use a unit that allows for a drain hose.