Mitre Station Question(s)

denrusso

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2013
Messages
51
I am in the process of moving my Kapex from the cart with wings onto a more permanent bench setup.  My plan is to mimic what Modern Artisan has on YouTube.  Utilizing the FastCap best fence with 12' on the left and 6' on the right - this would total about 20-22'.  To support the saw and fence, I would like to build cabinets that hold sys-az drawers and then an MDF top.  If I build the top to be approximately 2' deep, will that be too much for the sys-az cabinet?  According to the plans, the instructions provided with the drawers, the cabinet to hold them only needs to be about 15" deep.  Now I could obviously make the cabinets deeper, but is that just a huge waste of space??

Appreciate any insight on this!

Thanks,
dr
 
Do you have the KS120EB or REB?

I have a Bosch 12”glide saw with the Fastcap Best Fence. I have it in a Ridgid folding stand, but am in the process of making a stand from some leftover 8020 material I have. Currently I have the saw mounted to a 3/4” piece of plywood and use the bench mounts near the saw.

I ordered a Kapex from Woodcraft yesterday, which they say will ship March 1st, but I’m skeptical of that.

I went on the Fastcap website last night to look at ordering the Kapex adapters, but they say they only fit the EB Kapex, not the REB, and don’t show a REB adapter on the website. Looks like I’ll have to stick with bench mounts, and I guess I will have a small space where the v-groove adapter would tie-in to the base of the saw.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
build a cabinet for the systainers on wheels so you can slide it out and use the space behind. maybe even use 2 sysports doubling up on the space. I sort of did that when I set up mine using MFTs built cabinets set the most used tools where I can access them the easiest place the lesser used tools in a less acessable place
 
It depends.  What else do you have to store, what will you have in the future?  My miter station takes up most of an entire wall of my shop, 8' on the right and 13' on the left.  The station also includes my router table.  It is 24" deep with mostly open shelves underneath.  When I built it I thought about drawers and pullouts but realized that those would take up valuable space that I needed for all the other things not Festool related.  I also thought about the FastCap fence but I had to be honest with myself.  I have a tendency to "clutter" up flat spaces, especially during a project, so a fence system like the FastCap would just make things worse.  Anyway, for me, a 24" deep cabinet works. 
 
08G8V8 said:
Do you have the KS120EB or REB?

I have a Bosch 12”glide saw with the Fastcap Best Fence. I have it in a Ridgid folding stand, but am in the process of making a stand from some leftover 8020 material I have. Currently I have the saw mounted to a 3/4” piece of plywood and use the bench mounts near the saw.

I ordered a Kapex from Woodcraft yesterday, which they say will ship March 1st, but I’m skeptical of that.

I went on the Fastcap website last night to look at ordering the Kapex adapters, but they say they only fit the EB Kapex, not the REB, and don’t show a REB adapter on the website. Looks like I’ll have to stick with bench mounts, and I guess I will have a small space where the v-groove adapter would tie-in to the base of the saw.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have the REB, consider buying the FT wings instead. I think the Fastcap Kapex adaptors would fit with slight modifications to the lip that slides under the V groove. Looking at FC V groove adaptors, they are not solid design, but ribbed, that may very well be a weak point on the V groove on the REB model with slide out wings, cause the slide out extensions does not carry the second half of the “V” therefore there’s little contact surface to grab on.
I think Festool didn’t do well on that design.. REB II maybe? Even the UG wings has little to grab on, be careful.
Given that the Fastcap wings do cost a round sum of money, I’d get the UG wings instead.
 
FestitaMakool said:
08G8V8 said:
Do you have the KS120EB or REB?

I have a Bosch 12”glide saw with the Fastcap Best Fence. I have it in a Ridgid folding stand, but am in the process of making a stand from some leftover 8020 material I have. Currently I have the saw mounted to a 3/4” piece of plywood and use the bench mounts near the saw.

I ordered a Kapex from Woodcraft yesterday, which they say will ship March 1st, but I’m skeptical of that.

I went on the Fastcap website last night to look at ordering the Kapex adapters, but they say they only fit the EB Kapex, not the REB, and don’t show a REB adapter on the website. Looks like I’ll have to stick with bench mounts, and I guess I will have a small space where the v-groove adapter would tie-in to the base of the saw.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have the REB, consider buying the FT wings instead. I think the Fastcap Kapex adaptors would fit with slight modifications to the lip that slides under the V groove. Looking at FC V groove adaptors, they are not solid design, but ribbed, that may very well be a weak point on the V groove on the REB model with slide out wings, cause the slide out extensions does not carry the second half of the “V” therefore there’s little contact surface to grab on.
I think Festool didn’t do well on that design.. REB II maybe? Even the UG wings has little to grab on, be careful.
Given that the Fastcap wings do cost a round sum of money, I’d get the UG wings instead.
I’ve already got the Best Fence.

After I posted this, I see Fastcap has a video showing that you just need to grind off a little lip on the bottom clamping portion of the setup to make it compatible with the REB.

I’m waiting to see if my Kapex actually ships next week. I may just live with the Bosch for awhile longer if the Kapex won’t be available for awhile.

Will be working in the miter station either way though.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
jobsworth said:
Could also use full extension slides to make pull out shelves

Agree with this.  The cabinets can be as deep as you want - you're just mounting the SYS-AZ at the front and giving up all of the space behind. If your cabinets are 2' deep, you're giving up a fair amount of space by using the SYS-AZ.

Something like this is what's in my head.

At 24 inches deep, you're probably not getting 2 systainers on one pull-out (you may want all of your systainers in the front, anyway).

I have seen (but can't find) a picture of a cabinet like this where the pull-out tray had a built in box behind the systainer.

Definitely more work than a SYS-AZ, though.  Whether the extra space is worth the effort is up to you - and completely irrelevant if you just love the look of the AZ.
 
08G8V8 said:
FestitaMakool said:
08G8V8 said:
Do you have the KS120EB or REB?

I have a Bosch 12”glide saw with the Fastcap Best Fence. I have it in a Ridgid folding stand, but am in the process of making a stand from some leftover 8020 material I have. Currently I have the saw mounted to a 3/4” piece of plywood and use the bench mounts near the saw.

I ordered a Kapex from Woodcraft yesterday, which they say will ship March 1st, but I’m skeptical of that.

I went on the Fastcap website last night to look at ordering the Kapex adapters, but they say they only fit the EB Kapex, not the REB, and don’t show a REB adapter on the website. Looks like I’ll have to stick with bench mounts, and I guess I will have a small space where the v-groove adapter would tie-in to the base of the saw.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have the REB, consider buying the FT wings instead. I think the Fastcap Kapex adaptors would fit with slight modifications to the lip that slides under the V groove. Looking at FC V groove adaptors, they are not solid design, but ribbed, that may very well be a weak point on the V groove on the REB model with slide out wings, cause the slide out extensions does not carry the second half of the “V” therefore there’s little contact surface to grab on.
I think Festool didn’t do well on that design.. REB II maybe? Even the UG wings has little to grab on, be careful.
Given that the Fastcap wings do cost a round sum of money, I’d get the UG wings instead.
I’ve already got the Best Fence.

After I posted this, I see Fastcap has a video showing that you just need to grind off a little lip on the bottom clamping portion of the setup to make it compatible with the REB.

I’m waiting to see if my Kapex actually ships next week. I may just live with the Bosch for awhile longer if the Kapex won’t be available for awhile.

Will be working in the miter station either way though.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, I’d thought that it would only need light grinding on the lip that grabs underneath.
For the profile that grabs the groove, someone who has this exact Fastcap accessory would better advise. Then, using the wings stationary on a bench top I think will be fine. With the Kapex on its cart and accidentally bumping the wings they could easily break or be twisted off.
 
Dr. P. Venkman said:
jobsworth said:
Could also use full extension slides to make pull out shelves

Agree with this.  The cabinets can be as deep as you want - you're just mounting the SYS-AZ at the front and giving up all of the space behind. If your cabinets are 2' deep, you're giving up a fair amount of space by using the SYS-AZ.

Something like this is what's in my head.

At 24 inches deep, you're probably not getting 2 systainers on one pull-out (you may want all of your systainers in the front, anyway).

I have seen (but can't find) a picture of a cabinet like this where the pull-out tray had a built in box behind the systainer.

Definitely more work than a SYS-AZ, though.  Whether the extra space is worth the effort is up to you - and completely irrelevant if you just love the look of the AZ.

It's not a complete box, but I do have a vertical wall at the back of the pull-outs in my system. The shelves are 20" deep and the Systainers only need about 12". I nailed a small wooden strip as a stop for the Systainer and that leaves the open space behind for extras. I keep sandpaper boxes, saw blades, the other horizontal base for the MFK700, etc. behind them.
 

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I built a cart for my Kapex in a similar fashion to the one Peter Parfitt shows in a build video.
It's overall 24" deep and I think it's 32" or 36" wide - enough for two drawer banks wide enough for systainers.
I used Blum 21" undermount slides.  The bottom drawer I have a sys4 in each side and there's enough room behind them to store boxes of CT bags and my Kapex blades.  On the other side is just router parts.
Above those two I have other drawers that hold things like my squares, chisels, etc.  Lots of handy tool storage.
I have plenty of systainers too, but they're mostly on carts that I can wheel around to different work areas. 
Basically, you can get a lot more out of a 24" cabinet if you use full extension slides rather than the Festool sys-az.
I also use the Bestfence, but only have a single 60" section mounted to one side.  I have another section that doesn't really get used.  I have the left section supported by one of the Fastcap extra hands.  There's space underneath for my compressor and a stack of systainers.
If I'm cutting really long material, like for a deck, I'll either move the Kapex around or use a different tool. 
 
I built an outfeed table cart for my table saw, on castors.

It’s sized so it takes SYS AZ drawers on both sides, I’ve only got them on one side at the moment, and got a cubby for my chisel mortiser on the other side, but can take more SYS AZ in the future if necessary. 

For mobile carts I thought shallow drawers on both sides rather than one set of deep drawers was a decent solution.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did a bit of thinking on this and overall shop layout and I'm going in a different direction for the mitre station.  I have the Kapex wings so I will use them on top of a 16'x2' table.  My question now is regarding the height of the cabinets that I build.  Assuming I laminate two pieces of 3/4" MDF together to be my counter top and I have 4" toe kick and I would like to keep the cabinet balanced in 32mm increments, then I come up with 640mm. 

Counter top = 40mm
Cabinet = 640mm
Toe kick = 100mm
Total is 780mm compared to the Kapex MFT height of 790mm.

The toe kick stands are adjustable so I can make them a bit higher to get it exactly at 790mm.  I plan on making them 600mm deep and 1200mm long, meaning I would need a total of 4 base cabinets.  Two will maybe have drawers and the other two doors with an adjustable shelf.

Any issues you notice about this setup?

Thanks!
dr
 
[member=24722]denrusso[/member]

When making your own cabinets you can make your miter station any height thats comfortable to you.

Most of this stuff is personal preference.

Whenever you ax for advice your going to get ea individuals personal preference.
Yours may differ
 
jobsworth said:
[member=24722]denrusso[/member]

When making your own cabinets you can make your miter station any height thats comfortable to you.

Most of this stuff is personal preference.

Whenever you ax for advice your going to get ea individuals personal preference.
Yours may differ

Sound advise, body length, back’s and bodies in general dictates different setups and measures.
900mm might be a standard, but it’s not perfect but for a very few - it’s a compromise.
If one does ones own, be sure to make it fit you.
 
I’m 5’ 11”. I made my mitre station 960mm high - same height as my work bench. works great for me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
jobsworth said:
[member=24722]denrusso[/member]

When making your own cabinets you can make your miter station any height thats comfortable to you.

Most of this stuff is personal preference.

Whenever you ax for advice your going to get ea individuals personal preference.
Yours may differ

For sure. Mine is quite high, most people are surprised by it on first glance. In use however, it is very comfortable. I use the Kreg stop system on both sides, about 10' on the left and 6 1/2' on the right.
 
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