Mortising Jig for Festool OF1400 *Router Modification*

some pics of the larger mortises...and a sketch of the door. The back side is rabetted for the glass and screen panels.

update: forgot to mention, with a spriral upcut bit like I used for the domino mortises (Festool 8mm HSS spiral) the dust collection on the OF1400 was complete. As in 100%
For the larger mortises I used an Amana staggertooth and I had to blow out the bottom of the mortise with comp. air.
 
Nice work and design, Pete!!

How did you make the lengthwise scoring marks (presumably to prevent hydro-locking due to glue on the tenons) on your shopmade tenons? 

Greg,

An MFS should work for your intended purpose.  Just be certain to keep correctly in mind which is the reference surface as you machine the mortices in the top and in the frame of the attachment.  I'm assuming you will be using the Domino with its fence at 90 degrees to plunge into the top, but I am not clear how you intend to reference the Domino when machining the mortices in the frame of the attachment.  If I understand you project (and I may not), I would try to reference off the bottom of the Domino, placing it against the sides of the MFS to cut the mortices in the top and if possible clamping the frame of the attachment, one side at a time, flat against the top of your MFT (or any flat reference work table) and again using the Domino base referenced against the top of the MFT.  I use this approach frequently and get very good alignment height or thickness wise.  I use simple pencil mark to locate the side to side position of Domino mortices.

Dave R.
 
You have it right, Dave. I will doing this tomorrow and will let you know how it works. Since I will be cutting for Dominos in all four sides it will not be necessary to use the narrow settings as the frame will be constrained in both directions. This will make it easier to place the cuts without anxiety.
 
Dave Ronyak said:
How did you make the lengthwise scoring marks (presumably to prevent hydro-locking due to glue on the tenons) on your shopmade tenons? 
Click to expand...

Dave,

Thanks, I made the grooves with a point cutting roundover bit.
 
Thanks, Pete.  I'm still buying my (beechwood) dominos for basic joinery, but am thinking of making some of contrasting colors of woods for some drawers.

Dave R.
 
From an product design perspective the jig is very mature in form development. The curve treatment on the arms is very resolved. Thats some pricey material to use for it but it looks killer.

A+
 
Hi  Man this is just cool Jig good job I was just wondering if it would be posebole to get a blue print or all dimmentions for this jig? ???
 
Musatoved,

I'll get the dims this weekend, also it's not neccessary to use the alumnium extrusions with linear motion bearings, as a setup like Gary Rogowskis (from FWW) will work. The edge guide rides in a wood track.
This jig can be made with $15-20 worth of mdf instead of the 27mm multiply I used.

Pete

ps- just added images with dims, hope it helps
 
Hi, I've had some questions about the hardware, so I've taken some more detail shots for those who may want to make one.
Feel free to PM me with any dimensional questions.
I'm also considering making and selling a cnc cut parts kit, but the appeal is probably not enough as it's only for the Festool OF1400.
But I'd like to get a feel for if anyone is interested, you can reply or PM me.

Thanks for looking.

-pete
 
Pete,

How do you make sure the two extrusions are coplanar and that plane is perpendicular to the work piece?  Is it simply accurate construction are is there a fine adjustment?
 
Pete,

Would you mind telling us where you got that t-slot white slippery stuff?

Did it come in a t-slot shape or did you have to mill it?

Thanks,
Bluecpu
 
fshanno,

The 'front' extrusion, between the outriggers, merely acts as a support, so there was enough adjustment to tweak it to be level with the main extrusion. This was the only thing I was concerned about, ensuring the router bit would be perpedicular to the face of the workpiece, and plunge down into the wood parallel to the sides. To do this I shimmed the outrigger arms so that the top 'plane' - across the top of both extrusions - is 90 degrees to the face of the mdf mounting 'plate'.

Then I did test cuts and put a test joint together, and it was prfectly flat on my workbench.

Pete
 
Hi,

Just wondering if anyone has built their own version of this jig?, I'd be interested in an improvements or changes.

Thanks,

Pete
 
Wow, no responses. I was hoping someone would make an improved version that I could get some ideas from. ;D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Domino Face Mortising Jig - Any Interest?
2
Replies
38
Views
3K
smorgasbord
S
J
Spline jig for CSC SYS 50?
Replies
3
Views
647
Mike Goetzke
M
W
Festool Guide Rail & TSO Guide Rail Square: Cheap jig for repeatable cross cuts.
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
Woody Knotsensplintahs
W
Ultimate Tools Marketing
Woodpeckers Corner Jig - Perfect Corners Every Time
Replies
5
Views
4K
Ultimate Tools Marketing
Ultimate Tools Marketing
thudchkr
BenchDogs Router Template Jig
Replies
4
Views
26K
thudchkr
thudchkr
Back
Top