MrMac said:
I don't get it
I tried cutting the domino mortise hi, low, in the middle. Set it to cut really deep, the domino didn't really like that. (#5's) the side where you cut into the flat of the board? when you cut your miter, the slot almost completely dissappears. I then cut them close to the face of the board, still no joy. the mortise's are not deep enough.
I am missing something in this technique.
On the up-side, it's Canada day and I'm spending it in my garage making sawdust
wish work was this fun
LOL
edit: ok I just re-watched the video, and that's the method that I used. (one of them, I tried several) I domino'd both pieces, then cut the miters. no joy. I'm gonna try again today.
That method won't work with the Domino DF500 in 3/4" material unless you shorten the tenons. When you plunge into the face of the one board, you can only plunge to 15 mm. Otherwise you will go all the way through the wood at the 20mm depth. For the other piece, you have to plunge at full depth of 28mm. The sum of these two depths is 43mm. However, when you cut your miters, this combined depth gets reduced by 19mm (the thickness of the workpieces) and results in only a 24mm combined depth. The 5x30 Domino tenon is 28mm long. so it will always be longer than your combined plunge depths.
By the way, I am sure one or two people are scratching their head about the "19mm" shortening of the combined depth (or what ever the actual thickness of the workpieces are). That length will be the same regardless where in the miter you place your mortises. If the mortises are close to the inside corner, then the mortise in the face-grain won't be cut off very much, but the mortise in the end-grain will be shortened a lot. If it's in the middle of the miter, both get shortened equally, and so-on. The result of cutting the two miters will always shorten the combined plunge depths by the thickness of the workpiece, regardless where the mortises are placed across the miter.
It's not really a method I would ever use, even with the DF700. That's because the mortise in the face grain is short, and also potentially weakens the part of the workpiece between the mortise and the miter-point. By using a 45 degree plunge, the mortises will be deeper inside the workpiece--not just by length, but farther away from the point of the miter (outside corner). Additionally, instead of having the tenons both 45 degrees to the grain of the workpieces, the weakest of the two tenons will also be the piece where the tenon is totally mating to end grain. It's not a very strong method, and weaker than the standard 45 degree mortise.
I've showed this before on the forum. If you're having difficulty aligning your Domino to the inside face (blunt corner) of your miter, you can modify your support bracket to register the fence from the outside face. In most cases this is preferred because you usually don't care if your inside corners are perfectly aligned, but you do normally care that the outside corners are perfectly aligned. It also allows you to adjust your height so the mortise can be very, very close to the inside corner of the joint. This allows you to maximize your mortise depth.
Ahhh, Found it. I knew I had another picture somewhere. In this picture Tanner (my son) is actually using the modified Support Bracket along with my SCG-10 guide to precisely position mortises in a small frame the surrounds a granite slab for a couple of tables we made. Here you can see the new screws I added to the support bracket that align with the triangle-holes in the Domino fence. You need to drill holes in the support bracket, but you don't have to modify your Domino. The support bracket mounts to the Domino fence with a couple screws and nuts. If you wanted to make it easier, you could drill and tap 2 threaded holes in the Domino fence, but most people don't want to modify their tool.
Edit: Oh, if you do decide to drill and tap your fence to use the existing thumbscrews of the Support Bracket, you
do not need a metric tap. The cool thing about those thumbscrews is that the threads are
identical regardless whether they are metric or imperial. You can use a 10-32 tap!!! If you are still feeling unsure about this, just grab a 10-32 nut and put it on the thumbscrew, or grab a 10-32 screw and screw it into the holes on your Domino base. That's not just speculation. I had to research it extensively when I designed my SCG-10 and MGS-20 guides to fit your Domino machines.
Additional Edit: Another good reason for using the triangle-holes instead of drilling and tapping new holes is because the Support Bracket needs to be adjusted for different fence angles. They allow the support bracket to be moved up and down a little, unless you use this at only 45 degrees. Jepson made a similar fence attachment a decade ago for their biscuit joiner, but notice how there is a gap where the point of the workpiece intersects the two parts of the fence.
p.s., Peter and Shane, I do own this picture and I physically made this cutaway machine in my workshop. No copyright problem here.
