My first question..!

[Mac]

Hi all,

First off, after reading your posts for a few weeks I've been really impressed by your knowledge and enthusiasm for your craft and your tools. It's started to rub off and I feel quite inspired about getting started on my own journey.

Secondly, I'm after some advice. I'm a relative newbie to woodwork, about to embark on making my workbench and some other more construction based projects, although I do want to carry on building my shop and working on some simple furniture.  I currently have a (and sorry about all the black and yellow, I didn't know about Festool at the time! Got most on ebay as great bargains though...) Dewalt sliding mitre saw, Dewalt cordless plunge track saw, a few Dewalt drills and drill drivers, as well as cheaper jigsaws, belt sander, hand sander and things like that.   

I now suspect I need to pick up a router, and have been thinking about the OF 1010. Money is fairly tight at this point. Will I manage with this as my main router (having never used one before, I find it hard to judge)? Also, I gather I won't be able to use this with a fairly modest router table...is this a huge problem for cutting tenons? See, this is where I think I need a domino but maybe another day...!  I know I could also do this on a table saw but don't have one of those yet, either...my main line for convincing my wife that I needed the plunge saw was that it was so much easier and safer than a table saw. Curses.  I thought I was being so crafty, too.

So, should I go with the OF1010 or stick with a Dewalt job and a router table?  Any thoughts would be really appreciated.

 

[robtonya]

I don't think you would be happy with the OF1010 in a router table, and I believe you are also limited on bit sizes with this router too. You can not use 1/2 in. bits with this one. Maybe someone who actually owns one will chime in though. Good luck with whatever you choose!

 

[PeterK]

You really need 2 routers - a fixed base that can be mounted for table use and a plunge. I think the OF1010 is the nicest router I have ever used - and I own a bunch of them! For your needs though, I would go non-Festool (sorry). You would save money having both routers using the same size bits - probably 1/2" shanks as they are capable of everything. I would look for a Dewalt or PorterCable 1 1/2hp fixed base and a Dewalt 2hp plunge. I had the multibase Dewalt 618 setup but did not like the plunge base at all. You could try finding used routers to start with. In the Festool lineup, non of them are much good in a router table. I have all 3 plunge routers from Festool and my favorite is the OF1010 but it will only take 1/4" shank bits.

Another option would be the OF1010 and the 1/4" bits and a basic 1 1/2hp fixed base from PC/Dewalt with a 1/4" collet. That way you could use the same bits in both. Humm - - that might just be the best option for you. The older Dewalt 610 fixed base router if you can find one is indestructable so would be a good find used. The newer Dewalts are made in Mexico and not as nice - the 616 and 618. Not that familiar with the latest PC routers.
Pete

 

[acetool]

Hi Pete

Robert is right while the 1010 router is an excellent router it is limited to router bits with either an 8mm or 1/4" shank. The OF1400EQ router will give you a wider range of bits to use, 8mm, 1/4" and 1/2". We have posted a video on our site at the link below if you would like to see the 1400 router in use.

http://www.acetoolonline.com/Festool-574267-Plunge-router-OF-1400-EQ-p/fes-574267.htm

It has a wide range of use as well as plenty of power for the size of the tool.

Should you have any question please feel free to contact me.

Best regards
Leon S Davidman

 

[Neill]

Mac,

I have to agree with Leon and the others.  I bought the 1400 because of its ability to use any size router bit.  For the price differential it is well worth it.  Best router I have ever used, hands down.  Also, very user friendly.  Enough power to do virtually any task you might ask of it.  Great control.  At first, I thought it was a little large, but in operation I don't notice.  I have used it freehand and with the Guide Rail Stop and rail  I use it with my Freud Quadra Cut and regular bits.  Smooth as silk.

In my router table I have my Porter Cable 690 that I have had for about 12 years along with a lift.  Works great and is still reasonably priced.  I think you can buy the motor only although I have all three bases.

Neill

 

[rwdawson]

Mac,

I'm not an expert on anything; that doesn't stop me from agreeing with everything that's been posted on this thread.  I would like to add a couple of my thoughts.

When I went through the Cabinet Making program at Seattle Central Community College, they had us build a small router table.  The recommended routers were fixed base in the 2HP range. Since I already owned a P-C 690, I bought a P-C 890 for that project, as did several other students.  The Bosch equivalent was another popular choice.  Some also went for he Triton.  I don't remember the model numbers, but they were all in the 2HP or slightly higher range.  Everybody seemed to be happy.

As for hand held and operated routers, my first choice would be the 1400, which I now own.  Everybody raves about the 1010; some day I will own one, but Neill said it all when he recommended the 1400.

Bottom line for me is the most powerful router I can get in a router table and the 1400 for everything else.  I would also use the largest shank diameters possible.  That's me, your choices will be based on your requirements and interests, not mine.

You might also consider the simple fact that routers seem to breed, if handled too often and placed too close together.  You are not going to own just two routers.

Richard

 

[PeterK]

"You might also consider the simple fact that routers seem to breed, if handled too often and placed too close together.  You are not going to own just two routers." Richard

Now that is SO true!!! I gave 2 routers to my son, sold 3 on the web, and I still have 9!!!!!!!!!!! Sheesh.
Pete

 

[Ashlee52]

DeWalt tools are fine, and used properly will give you excellent results. The Festools end up being just a bit more precise so that they are easier to use to get the same fine reults.

I think one of the biggest differences between various tool systems is the ability to catch dust. If you work in a barn it may not matter... if you will be working in a basement or even garage it will matter a lot. And the worst dust producer is a router (followed closely by a table saw). Don't buy any router that doesn't come with dust collection capability... and don't buy, or make, a router table that doesn't incorporate dust collection. The Bosch router table is one excellent choice because it has dust collection in the fence and under the table.

My advice to you is consider a Festool 1400 router and vacuum combination. That gets you into the system with two tools you need. The 1400 will work fine in a router table, even though ultimately you will probably choose to use a less expensive fixed base router in that application. The Dewalt "two base" router kits can also give you good value (the Dewalt plunge base does have dust collection). I was blown away to see how much more effective the festool vacuum was with my deWalt miter saw than my previous Shop Vac was. And the Festool is QUIET.

If you make the right jigs for your track saw you may be able to avoid the table saw. I'd really give that a shot. I hate my table saw with a passion (dangerous, dusty, noisy) and am trying to learn to use it as little as possible. A decent band saw may be a better option for a safe clean home shop.

The other tool I would suggest as a very productive early purchase is a drill press. They aren't very sexy, but I sure use mine a lot.

 

[Mac]

Hi guys,

Thanks so much for your quick responses...I'm now reading and rereading to put together all of your ideas and wisdom! Makes it so much easier knowing there're folks happy to steer me in the right direction. I have a sick feeling in my stomach though that multiple purchases are on the horizon in spite of lack of funds...

Mac

 

[Ashlee52]

A few more thoughts...

In my new shop I built the Josh Finn bench "system" shown in the last Fine Woodworking "Tools and Shops" annual. It is super easy to put together, and ideally suited for track saw type shops. It makes a perfect cutting table, and lets you take the tools to the work rather than depend on big machines. You can probably access it on Fine Woodworking's web site. These plus an MFT are a perfect set-up.

Some stuff you definitely need to get going efficiently... bunches of clamps (Bessy and Jorgensen) including several wooden "wood screws"... an adjustable square... a wall mounted pencil sharpener... and a bunch of baltic birch 3/4 and 3/8 plywood. These are the things I use most in projects and for jig building.

And check out Fshanno's post of a jig for ripping with a track saw here http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=6939.0   I just built that last night... replaces a table saw in a big way.

Lots of people here use hollow core doors with a cover of styrofoam insulation as cutting tables for panels and cross cuts. These fit perfectly on the Finn style saw horse platforms.

 

[Mac]

Hi Ashlee,

Small question, but what are the main uses you get get from the drill press?

Thanks for all your other thoughts too, definitely given me loads to consider.

Mac.

 

[Ashlee52]

I use the drill press a lot making jigs when I want to put a T-nut into something. First you use a forstner to create the inset for the T-nut, then you drill right through the center for the shaft. Basically most times I use Forstner bits I use the drill press. You can also make excellent mortices with a drill press and Forstner bit. Whenever you want holes precisely placed and/or precisely spaced the drill press is the call. To make one fully functional you need to make a wooden table and fence system to sit atop the small factory tables... look at the Rockler catalogue for inspiration. A drill press without a fence is about as useful as a table saw without a fence.

You don't need a very fancy drill press... I have a Ryobi from Home Depot... probably under $125... but its a rare project where I don't use it. With a larger, more expensive machinae you get larger plunge range, and maybe a bit more precision in the alignment of the bit (arbor run out)... but I've rarely needed more than what I have.

You can use a drill press as a spindle sander as well. You set a cylindrical sanding attachment into a recessed hole in a table and can sand at a precise angle.

I doubt that anyone gets very excited by their drill press... probably most people forget to even list tham among their cool tools, but I couldn't imagine anyone having a serious shop without one. I'd be interested in other people's experience.

 

[Mac]

I'm really interested in this because I have such fond memories of working with one back when I was at school, and I do like the idea of having one, but as much as I like the idea of having a 'real' looking shop, I don't want to buy tools unless I'm going to use them properly; not a money thing, just doesn't seem right, you know?

Mac

 

[Tom Ryan]

Mac,

Most projects I make require holes for one thing or another -- dog holes in your work table, screw holes for attaching the back panel,...  Today I'm working on a project that uses a dowel as a hinge pin, and I need to drill holes -- square and in exactly the right location -- to make it all work.

Tom in SE Pennsylvania

 

[Ashlee52]

I built my table from plans I saw in a magazine years ago... basically a flat plywood surface with two parallel T-tracks. The fence connects into the tracks and can be moved forward and back and at any angle... just like the fence on a router table. The Rockler table is essentially the same design, but with a fancier fence than I would ever need.

I never built the removable/replaceable insert for the middle you see in many tables... and don't miss having one.

I have built essentially the same table and fence for my hollow chisel mortise machine.

Here's a very similar table to mine http://www.runnerduck.com/drill_press_table.htm

 

[Mac]

I agree, really easy to follow. Thanks! 

Mac