Need help deciding: LV LABP? LV DX 60? or both?

grobkuschelig

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Dec 27, 2016
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Hello!

I have not been using many hand tools, yet. But with my woodworking moving on, I find more and more possible uses for them.
I mostly build furniture and small stuff for Friends and Family.

Especially for a quick chamfer on the edges of a board, a quick planing/smoothing etc, I want to get a couple of good tools.

After my research, I have come to LV/Veritas as my preferred make. This is mostly due to the small feats they add to their tools.
To start of, I want to get a block plane, so I ordered the two contenders:

1) Low Angle Bloch Plane (LABP)
+ fits good in the hand
+ nice heft
+ good amount of side-surface area for a possible shooting board use (since I have no other plane at the moment..)
+ wider blade
++ most versatile block plane (handles, totes available to make it into a tiny bench plane)
++ additional "chamfer guide" for 45° edges, which I might use a lot since I like the look of those
- not as nice to operate(adjustments) & hold as the DX60

2) DX90
++ impressive build quality
+ very comfortable to hold
+ adjustable mouth fully front covered & safety screw that keeps the mouth at distance from the blade
- no accessories (chamfer, handles)
- less side-surface area for shooting

I know, spoiled for choice!  [cool]

My biggest trouble is that I can't seem to be able to decide.

So I think my main questions to you are:
- Would it make sense to keep both?
- Will I get "real-world-benefit" out of the LABP Accessory-Handles or will it be too small of a plane?
- Has anyone of you used the Veritas chamfer guide on the LABP? How does it handle?

I can see a potential benefit of having two planes, being able to set them up differently (blades, totes, guide).
Especially the possibilities with LABP.
But is this something one does in real life? Or am I just captured by the thought of it?
Maybe I also overestimate the "niceness" of the DX90 and might just get more use out of the LABP?

Thank you for any input to help me make a choice!  [big grin]
 
I have held a lot of blocks in the past but I settled down with a dx60

She is an extremely well built and solid piece.

If there was a plane on the side I would suggest a different style plane perhaps a LV LA Jack

These are the 2 i'm currently working with. They seem to do everything i need to do for the time being. I may add some higher angle steel for the LA Jack for some more versatility
 
I have both and here are my thoughts. The LABP is a very good choice for heavier work (I tend to use it for heavier work) and for taking broader shavings (planing the side of a door in one go for example). The handle and knob are simply awesome. Put a 32 degree bevel or higher on the blade and you have a superb little smoother. Personally I like the width and the circles on the wings are placed in precisely the right spot.

The DX60 is imo the best block plane on the market. The balance, weight, width, the way the lever cap integrates with the body, the way it feels in the hand, everything about it is just right. I also like the retaining screw for the adjuster, the stop screw for the mouth plate and how the mouth plate is enclosed by the body. I've been using the LABP for years and always thought it's the most comfortable block plane on the market because I have broad hands. That changed the moment I first held the DX60. It's a perfect fit.

Having said this, if I could have only one block plane I would choose the LABP because it does everything the DX60 does but the handle and knob make it more versatile.
 
derekcohen said:

Hi Derek,
Thanks for the links, I have read your review during my research 3 times, already. Great review.

I think my problem in deciding lies with the trouble that I find both, the LA block and the DX60 very comfortable to hold.
I like the DX60 a little more, if I only grab it "at the back", but with the index finger on the front knob, both fit like gloves.

I might keep the LABP for now, since the DX60 is currently not available with the PM-V11 blade.

I'm quite sure I'll be able to justify having two block planes, when the PM-V11 DX90 is back in stock... ;)
It just handles so nicely, but the options of the LABP keep me thinking it might be the most versatile.
Since it will be my only hand plane (apart from an old wooden scrub plane with a dented blade) I think going for versatility is the better way...

One needs to start the slippery slope into hand tool acquisition somewhere. [emoji51]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Lemwise said:
I have both...

The LABP for heavier work, handle and knob, 32 degree bevel for a superb little smoother...

The DX60 is imo the best block plane on the market. The balance, weight, width, the lever cap, retaining screw for the adjuster, the stop screw for the mouth plate and how the mouth plate is enclosed by the body...

Having said this, if I could have only one block plane I would choose the LABP because it does everything the DX60 does but the handle and knob make it more versatile.

Hi Lemwise,

I could not agree more. It looks like I'll just have to have both at some point in time. [emoji41]

As I stated above, this point in time will likely come with the PM-V11 re-stock of the DX60.

They are so nice planes!
In preparation I might even go and prepare a Systainer to be ready for both with accessories and multiple planes...

I always looked at the "cabinet installers toolkit" from Veritas. Since I'm in Germany, I have not seen anything likelier over here. Might just make my own, though. [emoji4]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I noted that some shops have the PM-V11 blade in stock. You could buy the standard version DX60 with that blade as an extra and use one of the blades in a different configuration, eg a different bevel angle. Adds a few bucks to the bill, but it cancels out the waiting…
 
So. Firstly I got the Low Angle Block Plane.
I took some test shavings and like it a lot. Immediately ordered the small handle (large was not available) but it fits like a glove!
Perfect extension for the plane. I hope the front knob arrives tomorrow.
Since I'm about to get into some hard wood, I also ordered PM-V11 blades with 37 and 50 degree angles.
...and the chamfer guide.

I'll make sure to take some pictures on the weekend and post them here! :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
The addition of the handle to the LABP turns it into a useful smoother ..

Block1_zpsftmhtbgu.jpg


I have but do not use the additional front knob. Generally I take this plane to woodshows when demonstrating techniques (joinery, etc), and switching from a smoother to a block plane is more work with the front knob. It works just as well without it.

The addition of the 37 degree blade is reasonable, but the 50 degree blade has significant limitations. It is difficult to freehand sharpen at 50 degrees, and you would not use a honing guide at this angle either (what's the point - you may as well use a 25 degree primary and add a 50 degree secondary). The biggest down side to a 50 degree bevel is that you cannot camber it, and you will want to do so if the plane is used as a smoother. Cambering a BU plane is best when one does so using a honing guide to create this as a secondary bevel on a 25 degree primary bevel ... so send back the 50 degree blade and get another 25.

I also hate to disappoint about the chamfer guide. It works but has limitations. The problem is that it fits into the removable mouth, and this restricts the registration. It is there when one starts a cut, but there is no registration when the stroke reaches the end of the edge ...... anyway, one does not need a chamfer guide/plane to make chamfers.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Hi Derek,

Thanks for the comments.
I bought the 50 degree blade mostly for the hard wood project I am working on at the moment. And it has proven to be a very good choice.
The block plane is my only plane at the moment, although after spending a day planing with it, I see me getting a larger one for the next project. ;)

I mostly got the chamfer guide because I like my chamfers being straight as they come from a router. It seemed to be a good option to get the same, repeatable results with a hand tool this way, for the quick board here and there. I need to see how useful it will prove when I actually use it.

I also got the front knob and have to say, I love my little smoother plane this far!

...now on to the next. I see you made the wise choice in getting both, NX & DX 60s.
I think I need a jack plane first, but after that... [emoji41]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
...now on to the next. I see you made the wise choice in getting both, NX & DX 60s.
I think I need a jack plane first, but after that...

Yes, I have them all. However, as I mention in many of my posts, I test planes for Lee Valley (Veritas), and get to keep the pre-production ones they send me. I very much doubt that I would have purchased all these planes otherwise. I do use the DX (35 degree bevel) and NX (25 degree bevel) all the time. They are both the best out there, but the DX is the better value.

I have a few jack planes, one I built (in wood), which is the one I use most of the time, as well as a Stanley #605 I restored. The jack is a rough plane. Use your plane funds for other planes.

You may be thinking of a low angle (bevel up) jack plane. I have the Veritas and would recommend it over the LN if you plan to also use it on a shooting board. If not, I would consider the LN because the extra width and mass would not be needed. I also have a Stanley #62, which is the forerunner to the LN, and use this as a jointer for narrow edges (around the 1/4" width) as it is easier to balance.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Personally I would go for the Low Angle Block Plane as I feel its more versatile and just fits my rather large hands better.

If I going round a building "snagging" defects that plane is just wide enough so I can plane a firedoors edge thats catching.

Means I don't have to carry a benchplane around with all the other stuff I'm already carrying.
 
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