need new motor for ctl midi

[bertv]

I regularly see also in Germany that in ebay worn Festool tools goes in auctions for about 70-90% from new price...  Never understood why save 50-100euros and have worn tool...

Those are bought for the parts. Repairing Festools 'off the regular road' is a business in Germany. Even at almost full price for a complete machine it is still way cheaper than buying the parts.

Then why bother with repair?

There are guys on the German eBay that offer an all-inclusive repair of various Festool machines. Their pricing is very competetive compared to the regular services (that use the trumped up parts prices of Festools Ekat). In the order of things they luck out on certain repairs that require only one cheap part & sometimes need a more expensive part for a repair. Apparantly in the long run these guys make money, so draw your conclusions…

In my opinion cannibalizing defective machines for their parts is a good thing, although I'd rather have repairs done with some kind of warranty (don't know enough about german law to make a statement about the eBay guys' warranties).

 

[Michael Kellough]

Okay, I get it. A repair guy should be able to do several repairs of other with the parts contained in a complete machine.

 

[smartins]

OK, motor powered items... But what can go wrong with mft3 vl extension, for example? I was just hoping get used vl, but it went for more than 75% from new price (if shipping needed, which was not cheap either). And that was scratched and used quite a lot...
So, good for Festool, I'm going to buy new.

Those are bought for the parts. Repairing Festools 'off the regular road' is a business in Germany. Even at almost full price for a complete machine it is still way cheaper than buying the parts.

 

[cjd]

Alex,
     
Yes you have it, the picture on the right that you have posted is the style i have.

Removing the shell makes sense but it appears that the cooling fan would also need to be removed and i am not sure how that is fixed, can't see a threaded fixing of any kind so maybe it is pressed on?

 

[AlexThePalex]

Yes you have it, the picture on the right that you have posted is the style i have.

Removing the shell makes sense but it appears that the cooling fan would also need to be removed and i am not sure how that is fixed, can't see a threaded fixing of any kind so maybe it is pressed on?

I don't think you have to worry about the cooling fan. I think you have to undo the clips and then the bottom part will separate to give you access to the brushes.

Both pictures in my previous post are from the same generic Nilfisk Alto motor, only Festool added the black plastic around it for their models. On the left picture you can see this rectangular protrusion next to one of the clips, and I think that's where the brushes are located.

[attachimg=1]

Of course I can only speculate from a distance not having this at hand myself, and I'm not going to take my own vac apart when it's not needed, but I've repaired/refurbished dozens of Festools by now, and in my experience the important parts are never that difficult to get to, let alone the brushes, because they need to be easily serviceable.

I would try to get all the plastic clips loose and see if the top part lifts off.

But, only try this when you're certain of your ability to get it all back in working order again.

 

[cjd]

Alex,

      As you suggest by lifting the case slightly the brush and brush housing can be lifted and extracted that way. The black mounting ring in your second picture actually covers a cut out in the casing which once removed gives a far better view of what you are working with.

It appears that the bearing in the cooling fan end may be failed too as it has some play to such as extent that the fan has been contacting the casing depositing material from the fan on the casing.

Have to say though the new unit I had from eBay also had a certain amount of play on this end too.

Looking at the removed brush and  brush housing it would seem around 25mm of brush has worn away with around 15mm still intact.

Do you recommend Festool brushes only as they are horribly expensive and I am still dubious about the bearing too.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I'd mainly recommend the Festool brushes because I have no clue about an alternative. I recently tried to find some alternative brushes for my Fein MultiMaster and the guy in the hardware store told me it is always best to go with the originals because there can be slight differences in hardness and conductivity between brands. I tried to put some Festool brushes in I had laying around, but they didn't work.

So if you want to experiment with alternatives, then I've got no advice of value to give.

Your Midi must have been used an awful lot to see so much wear. My 11 year old older type Mini isn't even worn like you describe, and it has seen a lot of use.

 

[cjd]

Alex,

      thanks for the advice. Well I always prefer genuine parts where possible and if I am interpreting the Festool parts diagram correctly it appears that the brushes are part of a kit containing numerous other parts too.

Yes the machine has been used a fair bit but more as a vacuum than a dust extractor but it is only 4 years old.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

Such helpful info. I thank the contributors her.