New Festool Guide Rail. This is what Festool should do.

[deepcreek]

I'm a big fan of the Betterley guide rail connector.  It's fast, easy, accurate, and in my humble opinion well worth the money.

I can't understand why anyone who is willing to make the significant investment in tools that Festool requires would balk at spending $100 on such a superbly machined and effective accessory.

For the record, I do not own a guide rail over 75 inches.  I connect guide rails and I'm proud of it.  [big grin]

 

[jeh]

Purchasing a tool or building a jig to fix a design problem that should not exist makes it clear the original design is crap. Even if you get them perfectly aligned you still have the dimpling issue. Poor design all the way around. Instead of making radios, coolers, socket sets, rulers, sand paper (for hand sanding) and various other gadgets spend some time of a new rail connection system.

I have both Festool and Mafell saws, rails and connectors. The Mafell is a better saw with a better rail system and connector and it works on Festool rails if you have those. The upsides are the connector which stores on the rail, the anti-splinter guard design, and the cord deflectors that are included with each rail. The only downside to the Mafell rails is they are not as heavy duty as the Festool rails. That is not to say they are fragile, but just not as rigid as the Festool rails. I'd prefer a little more mass on the Mafell rails, but that is just me. My first tracksaw was a TS55 and I later purchased at TS75 for the extra cutting depth. After trying out an MT55 I sold the TS55 and kept the TS75 though I use the MT55 and it's rails almost exclusively. I'll also add that I purchased the 120" rail to avoid using connectors and have enough other sizes to never have to use the Festool connectors. I have parted with some of the Festool rails, but kept a few rails including the 120" for use with the TS75. If Mafell enters the market with a TS75 equivalent I'll sell of the TS75 of the rails.

Like others have mentioned the 120" rail is for the most part an in shop rail only. It is too big to carry around a job site where it could get banged up or bent.

 

[DrD]

[member=652]JimH2[/member]

Dimpling can easily be dealt with by substituting nylon tipped set screws (can be obtained from McMaster Carr) for the factory screws.  They also hold MUCH better than the factory screws.  Nylon-tipped screws and the Betterley SCL23 and you're all set.

DrD

 

[hcoyote]

[member=652]JimH2[/member]

Dimpling can easily be dealt with by substituting nylon tipped set screws (can be obtained from McMaster Carr) for the factory screws.  They also hold MUCH better than the factory screws.  Nylon-tipped screws and the Betterley SCL23 and you're all set.

DrD

Specifically, these screws:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#93285A412

Bought some; haven't had a problem in 3 years (and they seem to clamp down on the rail much better compared to the originals that come with the connectors).

 

[ScotF]

I have never had issues joining rails. Tedious if going back and forth, but transporting a longe rail can be a pain too. I like the long 3000 rail and a 1900 rail for most cuts.

 

[kevinculle]

This is surprising, I have the Makita tracksaw with two 55" (1400mm) rails and it joins with good alignment.  A buddy has the same setup and when I redid my deck two years ago I borrowed his two 55" rails and ganged four together to finish trim an 18' (5486mm) run of deckboards...worked like a charm and nice straight edge where it met the trim board.

 

[chrisrosenb]

I have had my Festool guide rails for about 10 years. I never had a problem joining rails in the shop where I have a workbench.

I did have issues joining the rails out on a job site where I only had saw horses & maybe a sheet of plywood to work from. I made the joining jig for that reason. 

 

[Holmz]

I have never had issues joining rails. Tedious if going back and forth, ...
...

^This^

We take the PITA~factor x # to get the total PITA.
My workflow has the # high because I alternate between rip and cross cut.
If one plans ahead there is less joining.

(Or if one knows that they cannot think ahead, then they get something like a long rail)

 

[Job and Knock]

[member=15585]Svar[/member] Nice idea!

I have a 10ft (3000mm) rail, plus two 1400s and the 3000 is far better to use, but a pain to carry around, so a solution  which is beer tahn carrying another jig would be very welcome. I am mainly site based, though, where getting a flat cutting deck can sometimes be a problem

 

[Bob D.]

I don't have Festool but for my DeWalt track saw rails to ensure I put them together the same way each time I put a couple match marks on the underside of both rails. I made sure those two ends mated up squarely and then marked them. You could do the same by placing both rails butted together on your miter saw and make a single cut right down the mating line so you would cut them both at once and if there was any deviation from 90° than the angles would be complementary and cancel each other out. Match mark and you're good to go. You'll only lose a couple mm of each rail and never miss it. Any carbide miter saw blade should be able to cut the aluminum rails.

I have the same problem with dimpling if over-tightened. The DeWalt rails only have one T-track so any time you move a pair of rails that are joined you have to be careful and double check you alignment when setting up for a cut. It's not a good setup. Would be much better to have that one, wide bar for joining the tracks as the OP suggests, but two tracks with clamping bars would allow the rails to remain aligned. This is something it appears you can do with Festool rails since you have one track on the top and one on the underside. Not an option for the DeWalt rails.

 

[RickyL]

I have 3 1400 rails and an 800.

I leave 2 of the 1400's joined the whole time. But to align them, simple put another rail upside down and hold it firmly with your hand at the joint. I can be within a 0.5mm pencil line across the 2800mm and it only takes a few seconds.

 

[SS Teach]

I have two 1400 rails and one 800. I use a Betterly Straight Line Connector and Makita connectors. They work great, straight and solid.

 

[ben_r_]

I have two 1400 rails and one 800. I use a Betterly Straight Line Connector and Makita connectors. They work great, straight and solid.

Same here. Though I am still considering selling the Betterley and second 55" rail to put the money towards the 106" or 118" rail.

 

[rst]

I used  self made 60" 8020 extrusion jig and Makita joiners for years to join rails...finally bought the 118"/3000mm... never looked back...so much time wasted fiddling.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I am/was (?) a hobbyist and have a small SUV with bike racks on top.  I have the Festool rails, connectors, special screws, and Betterly connector.  The longest rail I can get into my car is the 1900 (75").  That's my favorite rail for many things, especially breaking down sheet goods.

I rough cut sheet goods at the supplier and load them in the back of my small SUV along with my saw, and dust collector.  The supplier is a long way from home.  Once loaded, I no longer have a safe spot in the vehicle for the rail.  Getting the rail to the supplier is no trouble.  Getting it back home safely, however, becomes a hassle.

I could bring shorter rails and all the connection gizmos with me and live with the inconveniences, or I could strap it to the bike racks.  I don't keep the straps in my car, and even if I did, I'm concerned that a gusting cross-wind on the highway would bend the rail.
If I bring shorter rails and forget any essential connection-related accessories, sheet break down and rail transport becomes much more difficult. 

Additionally, I treat the splinter guard gingerly on the rail connection flips, AND they often come unglued regardless.  I know my cuts are straight, but I don't count on the accuracy of the cut line.  These little annoyances and non-value added steps accumulate over time to lessen my enjoyment of the tools.  It's "death by 1000 cuts".

I'm considering buying the Mafell saw, rails, connectors and bag just to make this task less of a hassle.  I want to go, get my stuff, and get home and get to work.  What a fussy hothouse flower I am.

 

[Gregor]

I rough cut sheet goods at the supplier and load them in the back of my small SUV along with my saw, and dust collector.  Once loaded, I no longer have a safe spot in the vehicle for the rail.  Getting the rail to the supplier is no trouble.  Getting it back home safely, however, becomes a hassle.

How do you load the sheets in the van?

In case you store them vertically and use straps to hold them in place: can't you just insert the rail between the sheets (with the 'rail' part of the rail resting on the sheets, so only the flat part between the sheets)?

In case you store them horizontally, can't you simply place the rail ontop of the stack and stop it from sliding with a strap?

 

[Kodi Crescent]

I rough cut sheet goods at the supplier and load them in the back of my small SUV along with my saw, and dust collector.  Once loaded, I no longer have a safe spot in the vehicle for the rail.  Getting the rail to the supplier is no trouble.  Getting it back home safely, however, becomes a hassle.

How do you load the sheets in the van?

In case you store them vertically and use straps to hold them in place: can't you just insert the rail between the sheets (with the 'rail' part of the rail resting on the sheets, so only the flat part between the sheets)?

In case you store them horizontally, can't you simply place the rail on top of the stack and stop it from sliding with a strap?

I don't have a van, I have a small passenger vehicle.  I have to fold the seats up to accommodate the materials.

The rail length is such that I need to lay it on edge between the passenger seat and the center driver console.  No concerns getting there with an empty load.  The rail stays put on the way there.

I load by laying the pieces horizontally.  I don't have any tie downs for vertical transport.

The cut sheet materials have a slick surface and a lot of mass so that when I turn a corner, they shift inside the vehicle sliding this way and that.  If I fit the rail the same way on the way home, the sliding pieces would destroy the rail almost immediately.  I lay the rail flat on the pieces, but since it protrudes into the driver's area, it moves back and forth in the cockpit area, and is quite unnerving and distracting during the drive.

I could ratchet strap the cut pieces together and place the rail(s) on top.  One more thing I have to remember to take with me.

 

[DynaGlide]

Sounds like you have my Subaru.

 

[semenza]

I rough cut sheet goods at the supplier and load them in the back of my small SUV along with my saw, and dust collector.  Once loaded, I no longer have a safe spot in the vehicle for the rail.  Getting the rail to the supplier is no trouble.  Getting it back home safely, however, becomes a hassle.

How do you load the sheets in the van?

In case you store them vertically and use straps to hold them in place: can't you just insert the rail between the sheets (with the 'rail' part of the rail resting on the sheets, so only the flat part between the sheets)?

In case you store them horizontally, can't you simply place the rail on top of the stack and stop it from sliding with a strap?

I don't have a van, I have a small passenger vehicle.  I have to fold the seats up to accommodate the materials.

The rail length is such that I need to lay it on edge between the passenger seat and the center driver console.  No concerns getting there with an empty load.  The rail stays put on the way there.

I load by laying the pieces horizontally.  I don't have any tie downs for vertical transport.

The cut sheet materials have a slick surface and a lot of mass so that when I turn a corner, they shift inside the vehicle sliding this way and that.  If I fit the rail the same way on the way home, the sliding pieces would destroy the rail almost immediately.  I lay the rail flat on the pieces, but since it protrudes into the driver's area, it moves back and forth in the cockpit area, and is quite unnerving and distracting during the drive.

I could ratchet strap the cut pieces together and place the rail(s) on top.  One more thing I have to remember to take with me.

How about clamp the rail to the sheets?

Seth

 

[Michael Kellough]

Make a small A frame rack for carrying the cut ply pieces. A frame similar to those used to transport stone and glass but made of wood. If you’re clever you can make it with hinges so it can fold flat when not in use. Clamp or strap material to the frame. You should be able to find a way to use the seatbelt anchors to pass a strap across the top of A frame and ply. Guide rail passes between legs of A.