New Kapex shattering Oak shoe molding

I am still thinking about replacing the blade with an 80 tooth. I run a 2x6 through the thickness planer and joiner to make a jig.  I'm finished the job and do not have any shoe form it in my trailer but will keep all this in the back of my mind.

Also David from Festool responded to my email and has seen this thread. Much thanks to him for the quick reply and watching on FOG.
 
Michael Kellough said:
All you need to do is move the stock out to a point around the middle of the miter table where the angle of the teeth will be pushing the stock down rather than lifting. A shim of around 4" should do it. If you move the saw out out just a little and lock the slide so the shim isn't cut completely in two it will also function as a zero clearance fence, which will also help.

By fine tuning the depth of the shim (depth from front of shim to back, not thickness) and the pivot point of the saw head so that there is less downward force from the tooth angle you can reduce tearout on the bottom of the stock. The shim itself will stop tearout on the backside.

Michael:
Excellent! Thanks. Makes sense and explains it perfectly.
Tim
 
JLB builders LLC said:
Also David from Festool responded to my email and has seen this thread. Much thanks to him for the quick reply and watching on FOG.

...and David (thoughts) wrote? Can you share his thoughts on this or did he confirm one method over another.
Tim
 
JLB builders LLC said:
He stated that it seems I was getting some great advice and I should try a zero clearance back fence.

Chalk another up for the FOG!
I gotta say this board is one of the best things about Festool.
Tim
 
Yes I really like this board. Lots of helpful information and seems like friendly people. I have been on other forums and most of the people were acting like they were better than anyone else. Ive been doing this since I was a kid with my grandfather and he told me there is always something to learn. I enjoy learning something new and like to pass on my experiences for someone else to learn. Sometimes there are more than one way to achieve the same finished product, if they all pass inspection and are easier for that person to get it done than I am all for it.

 
JLB, I made a zero clearance jig out of a jamb. About 3 1/2" h x 5" wide on the base. I cut a 45 on each side plus a 90. The cuts do not go all the way through the jig.

For shoe I add a small strip of 1/2" ply ripped about 1" wide and I secure it to the jig, sorta like I am cutting crown nested. So now the shoe is held against the fence jig. This way as the shoe or even returns are cut they do not fly up into the blade.

I use the 80t blade and I keep the speed on high plus of course I leave the blade down until the motor stops...
 
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