NEW2FES said:
I have the Qwas and the problem isn't setting it up it is the flex and movement of all the fixtures. I am always lost when someone says their's works perfect when in design it would be impossible??
If you set the miter gauge up to perfection then lift, remove a piece of wood, set in a new one, you will show a difference. I know it is wood and everybody's idea of accuracy is different. Simply set the gauge then grab the opposite end of the bar and you can flex it about 10 degrees. If you put pressure of the short end you can also move it.
The miter assy attaches with pressure from a clamp that has rubber on it that also causes flex and inaccuracy.
The idea to use a t track miter gauge is they are adjustable to keep movement to a min. You have a hardened steel bar moving within a aluminum track that has adjustability to remove any slop. Once that is set the assy itself has again almost no deflection.
I just do not understand why at this price point the miter gauge isn't more "SET AND GO" without constant checking. There is no argument here it is just fact. I like think if more were honest instead of cheerleading there would be a better product. I am sorry but if I just picked this up at Hardor for $250 I would say fine but this is a $600 folding table without accys that work properly and accurate.
I like this site and don't want anybody to get the wrong idea, I call it as I see it.
Nothing wrong with you saying that at all. I am curious to know what you're doing with your MFT that you are pushing hard enough on whatever it is that you're cutting that you'd set the fence off by that much. Also, if there IS that much flex, why not simply put a clamped stopper behind it as mentioned? I agree with you that it is an expensive piece of gear, but you also have to bear in mind that it was designed to be portable - and to make it rock solid would mean that it would be too heavy to be practical to move. So, you get a table that will give you very accurate references, you just need to take the extra step of securing them to the point where it's solid enough for whatever you're doing.
As a functional example, I've cut shims of varying widths on each end to true up the subfloor of my house. I had to cut well over 500 of them, and rarely more than 2 or 3 at a time were the exact same dimensions in a given batch. I used dogs to attach a rail to two tables, and a 2x4 that I had planed down to give me a straight reference point. I slid that under the rail and butted it up against the dogs. From there, I had shims that I had cut, and would insert them as needed. Now, I could shove on the 2x4s that I'd trim down as hard as I wanted to, and nothing was going to budge ever.
Here are some pictures, hopefully it'll help a bit. As far as the fence goes, it's the same idea - just have to secure it to meet your needs.
That's one of the spacers
That's the table setup
That's one of the "better" transitions between sheets of ply in terms of elevation changes
And that was the subfloor before a bit of sanding to do some smoothing here and there. Flat, level, and solid - three things it certainly was NOT before I started. There was no way I would have been able to do that in any reasonable period of time without the tables and (qwas) dogs.
Finally...
That's the hallway and one of the bedrooms having the first coat of poly applied. Every room on that floor needed the subfloors corrected, with some areas having a drop of more than 2 inches over 8 feet.
Anyway, long-winded and rambling way of getting to the point I suppose, but it is what it is. Ripping down 2x4s in random lengths to glue and nail under ply or on their own onto old wavy subfloor was not a gentle task, and there was a lot of slamming of pieces to ensure that they were firmly in place before cutting. Yes, there were some mistakes, but they were all due to failures relative to things such as simple math.
