New workshop build

[Timtool]

Today my Jet air filter arrived, i already had the small model for the assembly room, but this room needs the bigger model.
I temporarily connected it with a power cord, when i made the ceiling i installed a cable especially for this in the ceiling but still need to make an outlet.

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This is the assembly room, i just placed my old benches how they best fit but i plan on rebuilding everything whenever i have the time. The back wall is ideal for a "wall of chaos"

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The first piece to be completed in my new shop, a dovetailed entry table for a customer's shop.

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[Billy stray]

Really nice job on the shop and that piece , thanks for sharing
BTW I've been following your videos on you tube , long before  I even knew what fog was, keep em coming and good luck with your new shop

 

[HowardH]

I'm starting to think Festool may simply be a gateway drug. Instead of a garage size workshop full of Festool, you progress to a warehouse size workshop full of Felder.

Amen to that.  Started small with a few Festools.  Found Felder/Hammer and I knew I was in trouble.  Made a bit of a mistake by not ordering the A3-41 instead of the a3-31 I did order.  Sometimes having the extra width is worth it.  Oh well.  Might have to Craigslist the 31 at some point and order the 41. 

 

[Lbob131]

Nice table  and awesome  workshop.
Just wondering  how you cut  the dovetails  on that table. Band saw  set up?

 

[Timtool]

Nice table  and awesome  workshop.
Just wondering  how you cut  the dovetails  on that table. Band saw  set up?

When i took the job i thought i would find some way to do it with machines, but apparently not.
I was able to cut the pin cheeks on the panel saw, but all the rest was cut roughly with a jig saw and then finished by hand with a chisel. This was the second time ever i cut them by hand, the first time was in woodworking class 4 years ago.

 

[HowardH]

just looked closely at the picture of the assembly area.  What's your pup so interested in?  He's staring intently at the floor at something. 

 

[Lbob131]

David J Marks  does some amazing stuff with  large  dovetails  cut on the band saw.
He doesn't give much away though  on his jig set  ups.

 

[jmbfestool]

Very nice workshop and very nice felder machines.

I wish I could have afforded to have the upgraded spindle moulder and table saw separate instead having them as a combo.  Plus I'm limited with space because I need a large assembling area.  Does do my head in a lot when I have the changer over from one to another sometimes.

Oh well.  [crying]

 

[Timtool]

Oh well i kind of regret not taking the spindle on the panel saw, but as a second spindle moulder. I had this on my previous panel saw and the long slider was sometimes ideal for long workpieces and doing curves with long jigs.
But i agree the set up takes time, it's especially annoying when it's your only spindle moulder. After a while i bought a stand alone Hammer moulder which i sold this year and replaced with this Felder.

At least you can still get a stand alone model in the future, i can't add one to my panel saw.

 

[jmbfestool]

Oh well i kind of regret not taking the spindle on the panel saw, but as a second spindle moulder. I had this on my previous panel saw and the long slider was sometimes ideal for long workpieces and doing curves with long jigs.
But i agree the set up takes time, it's especially annoying when it's your only spindle moulder. After a while i bought a stand alone Hammer moulder which i sold this year and replaced with this Felder.

At least you can still get a stand alone model in the future, i can't add one to my panel saw.

Yeah suppose you are right.

I have one problem....... Wife!

I have spent a lot already and every time I spend a lot I say I need this to become more productive. She then says okay but that's it then..... I say Umm yeah.....  She replies NO! That's it no more. LoL  [eek]

 

[Kev]

Oh well i kind of regret not taking the spindle on the panel saw, but as a second spindle moulder. I had this on my previous panel saw and the long slider was sometimes ideal for long workpieces and doing curves with long jigs.
But i agree the set up takes time, it's especially annoying when it's your only spindle moulder. After a while i bought a stand alone Hammer moulder which i sold this year and replaced with this Felder.

At least you can still get a stand alone model in the future, i can't add one to my panel saw.

Yeah suppose you are right.

I have one problem....... Wife!

I have spent a lot already and every time I spend a lot I say I need this to become more productive. She then says okay but that's it then..... I say Umm yeah.....  She replies NO! That's it no more. LoL  [eek]

Talk about first world problems [wink] [big grin]

[member=10829]Timtool[/member] [member=5671]jmbfestool[/member]

 

[six-point socket]

Fantastic workshop, congrats!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[RENO]

Great workshop Tim !

 

[bdiemer]

Great video, great shop build, great table . Thanks for sharing !

 

[Timtool]

Heating is there, initially i was leaning toward heating the shop with heat pumps because it's practical, can cool in the summer and regulate air humidity.
But the cost was extremely prohibitive (around €12.000), in terms of energy savings it would take about 20 years to break even financially with the consumption of basic electric heaters... providing the heat pumps last that long and never require fixing.

So plan B it was, a wood stove. There is a Belgian manufacturer "Deom turbo" that builds wood stoves that can burn anything including saw dust. I installed the ducting myself after getting a few quotes for getting the installation done, they basically asked around €2600 exc vat to do the job, while i did it in one day and bought the pipes for a little under €1000 online... Ill post a video of that when done.

So far the stove works very well with either solid wood or shavings, When i fill it with shavings it burns for about two hours on a medium setting, but i suspect that it will do longer if it contains sawdust. A nice way to get rid of what has been a problem up to now, so far i have about 3 tons of shavings/sawdust in big bags.

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It has two valves on top to regulate air inflow, one only serves for opening the stove without getting smoke, and the other regulates the air intake. It's connected to a tube that goes to the center of the stove, that way you get a "turbo" effect as the air comes from above and is blown in the center. This allows to burn sawdust and shavings.

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[RENO]

Nice way to get rid of the sawdust, but take good care of cleaning the chimney!
Hope you invested the saving on the installation for a set of fire extinguisher, and a good fire and carbon dioxide alarm

 

[Timtool]

You are required to have your chimney sweeped at least once a year over here, otherwise your fire insurance won't cover you.
Besides that i tried doing it by the rules, made a plaster board box in the ceiling where it goes through and filled it with rock wool.
I haven't yet installed smoke alarms, trying to figure out how many i need. My electrician told me i could need 9 in the machine room alone because of the ceiling beams that trap smoke. Fire extinguishers are there though, i have a few small ones dispersed here and there in sensible areas but bought a big one for the new shop.

 

[Tinker]

You are required to have your chimney sweeped at least once a year over here, otherwise your fire insurance won't cover you.
Besides that i tried doing it by the rules, made a plaster board box in the ceiling where it goes through and filled it with rock wool.
I haven't yet installed smoke alarms, trying to figure out how many i need. My electrician told me i could need 9 in the machine room alone because of the ceiling beams that trap smoke. Fire extinguishers are there though, i have a few small ones dispersed here and there in sensible areas but bought a big one for the new shop.

Glad you are using insulation around the pipe.  i don't know the rules now, but when i was in the biz, some were using triple walled pipes.  i refused to use them for any of my installations. The problem with the triple pipes was they sometimes collapsed the inside wall.  The double lined with packing insulation were the best.  The way yours is set up, you are collecting heat from the pipe all the way to where it goes try the ceiling.  Good job.  I have never burned sawdust, but i have heard some of the newer stoves have that ability.  Good way to get rid of such waste. 

Buning any kind of wood stove is asking for creosote buildup.  The more modern slow burning stoves are a bigger problem with creosote than the old fashioned stoves that sent a lot more heat up the chimney.  There are products on the market that supposedly eliminate creosote.  Don't believe the adds.  I have experimented with my own chimney (I built it).  Those products turn the creosote into flakes, supposedly harmless.  The way i clean my chimney (not recommended for other chimneys) is to create a chimney fire that i can control with adjusting the air intake of my wood stove.  believe me when i tell you those flakes caused by the "chimney cleaning" product can be twice as explosive as the normal coating of creosote. they are very easy to clean out of the chimney if cleaned regularly and more often.  The problem is, you actually need to clean more often when using such product. 

metal stove pipes, such as yours, do not create as much creosote as quickly as masonry.    chimneys, but they still build up a good layer.  I don't know if burning sawdust creates a creosote problem any more quickly, or any more product, than any other form of wood that can be burned in a stove. You seem to be thorough in researching all that goes into your shop, so your are probably more up-to-date than i on the problem. Is it possible you could give me a reliable site where safety of burning sawdust vs solid wood has been discussed.  I will do my own research later today or the first rainy day
Tinker

 

[Timtool]

metal stove pipes, such as yours, do not create as much creosote as quickly as masonry.    chimneys, but they still build up a good layer.  I don't know if burning sawdust creates a creosote problem any more quickly, or any more product, than any other form of wood that can be burned in a stove. You seem to be thorough in researching all that goes into your shop, so your are probably more up-to-date than i on the problem. Is it possible you could give me a reliable site where safety of burning sawdust vs solid wood has been discussed.  I will do my own research later today or the first rainy day
Tinker

I suspect burning sawdust may get the chimney dirty quicker, when the air intake is set wide open it blows consuming particles up into the chimney. But then again sawdust is generally very dry as it is exposed to air and comes from kiln dried wood which may play in it's favor. The way current systems are built with a T behind the stove with a removable cap belows makes it easy to inspect them. With masonry you had to remove the stove.

I don't have any technical info other than user experience of this stove posted on forums, besides that there are no videos of it in function which made me doubt if it was actually practical or not. But so far it looks like it works well, i may even stick to burning sawdust only and keep giving away the solid wood to my parents.

 

[acrewood1]

I have had two of those stoves and they are good, I burnt the bottom out of them eventually. I then got an old 40 gallon oil drum, took the cast top of the stove and cut out the top of the drum to fit, Its now double the size and lasting a lot better.