Newly Installed Windows

[Staniam]

I Was recently was asked to finish the inside of some newly installed retro fit vinyl windows.

The picture shows the gap between the window frame and the old aluminum window frame. Caulk was mentioned to fill the gap but somehow I don't that's right for such a large gap.

I have some experience with windows, but not a lot and I've never come across a gap this large. I was thinking about covering the gaps with some sort quarter round. Foam came to mind too but it's messy.

Any advice?

 

[bkharman]

I would use spray foam to seal that puppy first!  I think you will need a good sized board to cover the sealed gap.

 

[tjbnwi]

Foam for windows and doors, it expands less then normal insulating foam.

Make sure you use thermal tape between the aluminum and trim.

Tom

 

[dltflt]

Foam for windows and doors, it expands less then normal insulating foam.

Make sure you use thermal tape between the aluminum and trim.

Tom

Just curious what does the thermal tape do?

 

[Staniam]

Foam for windows and doors, it expands less then normal insulating foam.

Make sure you use thermal tape between the aluminum and trim.

Tom

Alright so two votes for foam. What about covering that foam? I've never used the tape before so info on that would be awesome too. Thanks!

 

[tjbnwi]

I assume (maybe a bad thing here) that after the foam is set the window is going to be trimmed due to the gap. Aluminum is highly thermally conductive, need to stop that to get the best performance out of the new windows. Another thing, the foam must be covered due to flame spread and toxicity in the event of a fire.

One of many brands;

http://www.foams.saint-gobain.com/SoundProofing/NortonCST/ThermalInsulationAndBreak.aspx

Tom

 

[Cheese]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
Interesting...I was reading about the Norton CST tape that you recommended yesterday and Norton suggests that it be installed on top of floor joists to eliminate squeaking floors. Have you ever used it in that application and if so, how well did it work out?

Added:
http://www.foams.saint-gobain.com/SoundProofing/NortonCST/TapeApplication.aspx

http://www.foams.saint-gobain.com/uploadedFiles/SGfoams/Documents/NortonCST_ApplicationGuide.pdf

 

[tjbnwi]

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member]
Interesting...I was reading about the Norton CST tape that you recommended yesterday and Norton suggests that it be installed on top of floor joists to eliminate squeaking floors. Have you ever used it in that application and if so, how well did it work out?

Added:
http://www.foams.saint-gobain.com/SoundProofing/NortonCST/TapeApplication.aspx

http://www.foams.saint-gobain.com/uploadedFiles/SGfoams/Documents/NortonCST_ApplicationGuide.pdf

Always glued the sheathing to the joist, never used the tape in this situation

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

It looks like the plaster has a finished bullnose up to where the old window used to be? Do they not intend to put casing around the windows? If that's the case maybe just a piece of 1x on the flat scribed in nicely to fit would look good.

Are the gaps even all the way around?

 

[rst]

Foam will work, just use blue painters tape to cover edges.  Another solution would be backer rod and urethane caulk as used by the commercial/industrial construction trades.

 

[ear3]

Oh, and remember to wear gloves when doing the foam.  I cavalierly went bareback last summer when I was renovating a bedroom in my house, and then discovered that there was no solvent, including petroleum based ones, that would get that stuff off my hands, so I was forced to take a razor and scrape it off piece by piece, leaving my hands without the first few layers of skin in a couple of places. 

 

[rizzoa13]

I broke down and bought one of the reusable "pro" guns by great stuff and they sell a gun cleaner that'll take that stuff right off. Smells exactly like rubbing alcohol to me but who knows.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Acetone.

 

[rst]

I spray a lot of foam installing commercial steel doors and frames and I clean my gun with acetone as it is much cheaper than the pressurized cans. As far as cleaning hands, I use an citrus based construction solvent that takes it right off.

 

[EJC]

Alright so two votes for foam. What about covering that foam? I've never used the tape before so info on that would be awesome too. Thanks!

On vinyl windows I'd use PVC Lattice in applications like that. Use nails and/or adhesive then caulk it in place. The PVC matches the white vinyl window. Royal makes this PVC moulding profile but there may be others. If your local lumber yard can't get it you should be able to find it at Home Depot. 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 8' or 5/32" x 1-1/4" x 8'

 

[canadamike]

If the customer or you are concerned about the building envelope, you should insert foam backer rods to fit the space and then chalk over to get the envelope seal. After that you install the trim to make it look nice. There are best practices available - send me a PM and I can send you some info.

 

[canadamike]

Forgot to add, tape over the caulking, but it needs to be the right tape for exposure/application. Not sure where the job is at?

You can put spray foam in to fill the big gaps, but make sure you choose the right product (non expanding). Also, this stuff does not last long when exposed to sunlight etc, so that's why you need to do all the details on the window sealing if you want it to last. And it can shrink, that's why the backer rods are used - they are stable.

I work with a group that builds custom homes that are very energy efficient, so just sharing our practices.