Nora NSC-6600 recessed can hole cutter

[leakyroof]

This runs just under $100 and I haven't found a review of it yet . Anyone here use this cutter for cuts in Drywall etc as a different way to go compared to a Rotozip?http://www.noralighting.com/Product.aspx?pid=8343

 

[mkasdin]

Klein makes a tool that's cheaper but not as nice with a clear (cheap) plastic cowl. The cutter can be used by itself.  I watched some proffesional drywall ears and they used just the adjustable cutter for round holes
, not just for recessed cans.

 

[tjbnwi]

Recessed light hole saw and half a basket ball.

There are hole saws sized for recessed lights. If you use the grit edge rotation in either direction works well, if you use the toothed hole saws backwards rotation works best in drywall.

Tom

 

[leakyroof]

Thanks for all the replies. I had seen the Half Basketball trick years ago on This Old House, so I was intrigued with the NORA cutter since it has the clear plastic body sections to allow you to keep an eye on things. Another thing I was trying to find out was what sharpening method users were working with to keep the blade sharp.
From the catalog picture, looks like a single edge blade, but not carbide.
Hmm, still need more info before I take the plunge on this one.... [embarassed]

 

[balrog]

I do not have experience with the Nora tool. I have used a similar designs from Hole Pro, the X-230 and  X-305 models.
http://www.holepro.com/powerseries.html

If the blades  contacts framing as it finishes the cut in the drywall, the assembly can kick back. In an ideal world it would be best to do your layout before hand to notate any obstacles, but sometimes projects do not work out that way.

After you have made the cut, you have to be diligent of holding the drill and cup upright to keep from spilling the dust as you climb down the ladder. It is a bit clumsy, so it is nice to be able to pass the drill with the attached cutter to someone on the ground. Not the best for productivity as you have two workers on a single task.

When working in a finished work space, you need to clean the rim of the cup  between cuts. Fine dust sticks to the lip and may leave a "ghost like' ring. If the ceiling has been painted recently, you have to be careful not to leave rub marks in the paint.

The reason a device like this is to reduce clean up time for yourself. If it was during the rough in phase of a project, I would rather use a hole saw or drywall saw then give it a quick sweep.

 

[leakyroof]

I do not have experience with the Nora tool. I have used a similar designs from Hole Pro, the X-230 and  X-305 models.
http://www.holepro.com/powerseries.html

If the blades  contacts framing as it finishes the cut in the drywall, the assembly can kick back. In an ideal world it would be best to do your layout before hand to notate any obstacles, but sometimes projects do not work out that way.

After you have made the cut, you have to be diligent of holding the drill and cup upright to keep from spilling the dust as you climb down the ladder. It is a bit clumsy, so it is nice to be able to pass the drill with the attached cutter to someone on the ground. Not the best for productivity as you have two workers on a single task.

When working in a finished work space, you need to clean the rim of the cup  between cuts. Fine dust sticks to the lip and may leave a "ghost like' ring. If the ceiling has been painted recently, you have to be careful not to leave rub marks in the paint.

The reason a device like this is to reduce clean up time for yourself. If it was during the rough in phase of a project, I would rather use a hole saw or drywall saw then give it a quick sweep.

. Thank you for the thoughtful post. Sounds like you've lived through it a bit .... [smile]

 

[Holzhacker]

Seems a bit pricey. I have the Klein one with the basic plastic shroud. These blade type cutters work fine for drywall but I don't like them for plaster and lath. They don't work well, tend to get dull and are a PIA. Much prefer a hole saw for plaster & lath.
You can make a shroud pretty easy with the bottom 2" off a paint bucket either with a DC hole or not. You can drill a hole into the side and glue on a basic home depot rigid shop vac adapter. Works quite well for a couple cheap parts if you are doing a lot of cans. Have put felt on the edge of the buck rim though if the ceiling is finished in order to avoid paint damage as others mentioned.

 

[leakyroof]

Seems a bit pricey. I have the Klein one with the basic plastic shroud. These blade type cutters work fine for drywall but I don't like them for plaster and lath. They don't work well, tend to get dull and are a PIA. Much prefer a hole saw for plaster & lath.
You can make a shroud pretty easy with the bottom 2" off a paint bucket either with a DC hole or not. You can drill a hole into the side and glue on a basic home depot rigid shop vac adapter. Works quite well for a couple cheap parts if you are doing a lot of cans. Have put felt on the edge of the buck rim though if the ceiling is finished in order to avoid paint damage as others mentioned.

Oh, I was never intending it for Plaster and Lath work......  That could get messy and damaging REAL fast... [doh]