Nova Viking DVR 16” bench drill press

[Cheese]

I still don’t understand how a straight smooth rod can be tightened non-concentrically. My technique is to do a quick twist to grasp the bit then open up the slightest amount that allows rotating the bit and then slowly re-tighten as I continue rotating the bit until it’s really tight.

When I realized that could happen and got it to run true (the multiple function buttons help, I set one to slow speed and can easily see how the bit spins) I marked the rod and chuck so I could get it straight again later but that trick for minimizing runout in bent tooling and crummy chucks didn’t work with a straight rod and a good chuck.

I feel for you Michael... [sad] [sad]...that's an awful lot of dinging around to do just to chuck up a drill bit.

I agree that it's a completely random issue, otherwise when you aligned the previous marked parts, the runout should be the same as it was, it shouldn't change.

 

[jarbroen]

A drill press was way down my list of need/want... but now you guys have me thinking about getting that Nova Viking. 
I just saw that recently and was surprised that I hadn't heard more about it.
Their floor stander looks really nice, but didn't want to waste the floor space (or spend $1500).
Under $1k and can be mounted on a cart sounds way better.  I actually have a cart already that would work pretty well.  Just have to relocate my Pantorouter.
I still wonder if I really 'need' a drill press though.  I don't do machining or precision drilling very often.  A regular drill usually suits my needs.  Just thinking out loud... lol

 

[deepcreek]

I just bought the Viking drill press and want to replace the chuck with a Jacobs style keyless.

I know this has been discussed ad nauseam in the lengthy Voyager thread but I'm looking for the Cliff Notes version.

Is Albrecht the brand to get?

What model number?

What mandrel?

Anything else I need to know?

Many thanks!

Joe

 

[deepcreek]

Can you post up a picture of yours when you get it setup in your cart?

[member=71544]08G8V8[/member]

Here's a photo of my current set up.  The top and bottom are double thick.  My Labrador gnawed on the trim when he was a puppy and I never got around to fixing/finishing it.

I'll probably make an 80/20 cart similar to the one I'm working on for my Kapex sans the drawers.

[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]

 

[Michael Kellough]

I just bought the Viking drill press and want to replace the chuck with a Jacobs style keyless.

I know this has been discussed ad nauseam in the lengthy Voyager thread but I'm looking for the Cliff Notes version.

Is Albrecht the brand to get?

What model number?

What mandrel?

Anything else I need to know?

Many thanks!

Joe

[member=6237]deepcreek[/member] just scroll up to reply 15 for the model number and on up to 14 for a discount code at Zoro (good today only)

 

[rvieceli]

[member=6237]deepcreek[/member]

Joe

Albrecht is an excellent brand and make probably the best regarded keyless chucks.

You’ll most likely want at least 1/2 inch capacity

That’s an Albrecht 130 (1-13mm). You’ll need a #2 Morse Taper or MT2 to put in you press.

Ron

 

[jarbroen]

I see a fellow Blum Tandem fan. 
I have a similar Kapex cart, but built with fir using M&T.  How's the cost for something like that in 80/20?  I like the extrusions but always assume it's more expensive than wood.

 

[deepcreek]

IMPORTANT - I just read in the manual (page 8) that you MUST use a surge protector rated to at least 15amp 115v and a joules rating of at least 3900J to protect the DVR motor.

Also on page 9 it says for a GFI to be compatible with the DVR motor it must have a leak current threshold rating of 30mA.  Normal household GFI devices are typically rated at 5mA which may trigger when using the drill press.

 

[deepcreek]

How's the cost for something like that in 80/20?  I like the extrusions but always assume it's more expensive than wood.

It's more expensive than wood.  We spent about $400 on just the 80/20 extrusions (pre-cut and tapped) plus the connecting hardware.  You can do it for less if you make your own cuts/taps and source bulk extrusion from their eBay outlet.  Time is money so we just ordered directly from the 80/20 online store and assembled.

By the way, the casters came from MAPP caster in Houston.  They will make up whatever configuration you want.

 

[08G8V8]

Thanks for the extra 5% off.....and Zoro had the Albrecht C130-J33 chuck.  Order placed!

You'll be happy with the Albrecht...I keep a 1-13 in my drill press, a 0-10 in my lathe and I have an extra 0-10 available for the drill press for drilling really small holes.

Albrecht guarantees runout to be .0015" or less.

The only word of caution is if you are using any keyless chuck for tapping. You'll probably need to use the keyed chuck. FWIW...Albrecht does offer a "Reverse Lock" keyless chuck.

Tapping is the reason I stuck with the Llambrich. The model I used is designed for wrench (included) tightening when needed so it can run in reverse.

I still don’t understand how a straight smooth rod can be tightened non-concentrically. My technique is to do a quick twist to grasp the bit then open up the slightest amount that allows rotating the bit and then slowly re-tighten as I continue rotating the bit until it’s really tight.

When I realized that could happen and got it to run true (the multiple function buttons help, I set one to slow speed and can easily see how the bit spins) I marked the rod and chuck so I could get it straight again later but that trick for minimizing runout in bent tooling and crummy chucks didn’t work with a straight rod and a good chuck.

Yeah, there are features on the Voyager that were not added to the Viking. The Viking has no presets. It also does not have the menu system to pick a bit type and material type to get the suggested speed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[08G8V8]

I bought another arbor for the Albrecht as well, so I can swap back quickly. I will see how the stock chuck runout measures.

It will be interesting to see what runout the stock chuck has.  [big grin]

Make sure you have a couple of arbor wedges on hand so you can easily remove the arbor.
https://www.zoro.com/jacobs-wedge-s...MI-73nlqyh5gIVjtdkCh1bMwafEAQYBCABEgKIgfD_BwE

I bought another arbor so I wouldn’t need to remove the arbor from the chuck. I guess it would be a good idea to have some wedges in the toolbox anyway. Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[08G8V8]

Can you post up a picture of yours when you get it setup in your cart?

[member=71544]08G8V8[/member]

Here's a photo of my current set up.  The top and bottom are double thick.  My Labrador gnawed on the trim when he was a puppy and I never got around to fixing/finishing it.

I'll probably make an 80/20 cart similar to the one I'm working on for my Kapex sans the drawers.

[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]

Very nice!  I am building a 8020 MFT style workbench and just ordered my material earlier this week. I ordered everything cut to length but no added machining such as tapping. I ordered some extra 1515 profile and hardware to have on hand, and think a drillpress stand is what I’ll use it for.

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[08G8V8]

I bought another arbor for the Albrecht as well, so I can swap back quickly. I will see how the stock chuck runout measures.

It will be interesting to see what runout the stock chuck has.  [big grin]

Make sure you have a couple of arbor wedges on hand so you can easily remove the arbor.
https://www.zoro.com/jacobs-wedge-s...MI-73nlqyh5gIVjtdkCh1bMwafEAQYBCABEgKIgfD_BwE

Cheese, do I need the #3 set of wedges?  The chuck, stock and Albrecht are J33 taper, so does that mean it needs the #3 3JT?

 

[Cheese]

Cheese, do I need the #3 set of wedges?  The chuck, stock and Albrecht are J33 taper, so does that mean it needs the #3 3JT?

Well these arbor wedges are very specific in their capabilities. I have Morse 3, Morse 2 and Jacobs 6 arbors. The numbers stamped on the arbor wedges are 3...2....and 6. I'd suspect the wedges for your application should be stamped 33...just my guess. If I had better info than that, I'd let you know.  [smile]

 

[08G8V8]

Cheese, do I need the #3 set of wedges?  The chuck, stock and Albrecht are J33 taper, so does that mean it needs the #3 3JT?

Well these arbor wedges are very specific in their capabilities. I have Morse 3, Morse 2 and Jacobs 6 arbors. The numbers stamped on the arbor wedges are 3...2....and 6. I'd suspect the wedges for your application should be stamped 33...just my guess. If I had better info than that, I'd let you know.  [smile]

I found a video on YouTube about these and the guy measured the inside width and I took a screen shot of them.

Just like the problem he had, the inside dimension was either too small or too big for the stock arbor I have. I saw other videos on how to remove the arbor in this case, but I just ordered a new arbor for the new chuck and I’ll leave the stock arbor and chuck married together.

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[deepcreek]

IMPORTANT - I just read in the manual (page 8) that you MUST use a surge protector rated to at least 15amp 115v and a joules rating of at least 3900J to protect the DVR motor.

Also on page 9 it says for a GFI to be compatible with the DVR motor it must have a leak current threshold rating of 30mA.  Normal household GFI devices are typically rated at 5mA which may trigger when using the drill press.

The best deal I have found that meets the 15amp 115v and 3,900 Joules rating is from Tripp Lite and costs about $50 at Amazon.
https://www.tripplite.com/protect-i...r-25-ft-cord-3900-joules-cord-wrap-hang-holes~TLM825SA

It's much larger than I need for my setup and comes with a ridiculously long 25 foot cord.  (Although, I suppose the cord makes sense for a construction jobsite.)

Has anyone found a better alternative?

The Isobar's like I use for my home electronics are only rated to 12 Amps and 3,840 Joules.

Thanks!

Joe

 

[08G8V8]

I ordered this from Amazon.  It is 15amp and 4320 joule.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GPF72BZ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

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[Michael Kellough]

I didn’t pay any attention to the joule specification, just used an ordinary surge protection outlet strip. Guess I’ve been lucky.

I don’t even know what a higher or lower joule rating means. Can anyone explain?

 

[Michael Kellough]

I ordered this from Amazon.  It is 15amp and 4320 joule.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GPF72BZ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is another, similar to above but a little smaller, cheaper, and with a shorter cord.

 

[rvieceli]

#6 wedge is the one for a #6 Jacobs Taper and a JT33

But as mentioned they don’t always work right with the quill end taper.

Ron