Oak Porch.
- Thread starter jmbfestool
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jmbfestool
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ifit said:
Soz dude! long day! tired! Gotta work tomoro also on another job!
Only getting a few days of my joiner mates helping me! 2 days of one joiner 2 days of another joiner and 1 of Dean social another joiner next week 5days of 3 different joiners! lol
jmbfestool
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Dave Reinhold said:
cheers Dave!
Ifit, yours looks good too though [big grin]. Never mind JMB, he's probably feeling threatened [bite tongue]
Not sure it is right for that style of house though. Brett's looks more in keeping on the house he did his on from what I can see on the pictures.
Not sure it is right for that style of house though. Brett's looks more in keeping on the house he did his on from what I can see on the pictures.
jmbfestool
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Here is a vid I made and decided to upload due to the fact only 3 (above pictures) turned out clear enough to see whats going on out of the 10 I took.
In the vid you can see how far the wall was leaning out and its actually slightly more because the frame needed to be slightly fixed out of plumb so it cleared the steel lintel which I had already cut a section of the steel out to try and get it so it could be covered cus the frame couldn't be brought forward any more because it would be sticking out of the brick work at the bottom otherwise.
Also in the video you can see all the scribing which needed to be done the wall must be leaning 4'' plus from the floor to wall plate and then a further 4'' from wall plate to ridge total of 8'' atleast so the porch has had to be scribed to the wall.
and you can see to cocking strip made to look like a full board from below to hide the felt and laths looks a lot tidier then sticking facia on or a small strip of oak which is normally used to hide it a lot of cases I have seen it left exposed so your able to see the laths when looking underneath the tiles
Oak porch
In the vid you can see how far the wall was leaning out and its actually slightly more because the frame needed to be slightly fixed out of plumb so it cleared the steel lintel which I had already cut a section of the steel out to try and get it so it could be covered cus the frame couldn't be brought forward any more because it would be sticking out of the brick work at the bottom otherwise.
Also in the video you can see all the scribing which needed to be done the wall must be leaning 4'' plus from the floor to wall plate and then a further 4'' from wall plate to ridge total of 8'' atleast so the porch has had to be scribed to the wall.
and you can see to cocking strip made to look like a full board from below to hide the felt and laths looks a lot tidier then sticking facia on or a small strip of oak which is normally used to hide it a lot of cases I have seen it left exposed so your able to see the laths when looking underneath the tiles
Oak porch
jmbfestool
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Tim Raleigh said:
No always proud about 15mm 1. I prefer the look 2. If the wood shrinks/moves its doesnt mater if you trimmed them flush then it would show
Nope a jigsaw [big grin]
How it was done was using a piece of plywood which was 150mm wide (same width as the oak post) and the length of where the wall plate would be. I scribed the plywood to the wall didnt have to be bang on just need to remove the bulk.
So then placing the plywood onto the oak post to mark it to cut the bulk off the oak post leaving 15mm extra for when doing the proper scribing on the oak post. Thing is even removing the bulk of its still almost impossible to scribe both sides of a 150x150 post bang on not only that needed to make sure it stayed square with the porch you could end up scribing more from one side than the other!
Sooo removed the bulk and then having 15mm left to scribe for final fitting needed a easier method to scribe more accurately Came up with an idea! Using the spindle moulder removed the centre of the post so like a large dado about 30mm deep! Leaving a 30mm thick by 30mm deep sides either side once you remove the 15mm from scribing it will only be 15mm deep hollow. A jig saw can easily scribe 30mm thick timber [big grin]
but still had the problem making sure it stayed square so assembling the sides together guaranteed it to be scribed square to the wall but did make it heavy to move about but it was the only thing I could think of doing.
The other method could be grinding the wall for the oak beam to slot into so need for as much scribing just remove the bulk and push it into place! I just didnt like the idea cutting the brick work up plus the wall aint holding up that well any way! I recon the oak porch is keeping the wall from falling over.
JMB
Looks real good.
I like your idea for the scribing in fact I was wondering what the channel was for you can see it in the earlier photos.
The other thing about leaving the pegs proud is that if the joint loosens over time you can tap em in a bit to tighten it - as long as they were drilled offset.
I like your idea for the scribing in fact I was wondering what the channel was for you can see it in the earlier photos.
The other thing about leaving the pegs proud is that if the joint loosens over time you can tap em in a bit to tighten it - as long as they were drilled offset.
jmbfestool
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Nigel said:
Yip you are right! Im assuming you are referring to this previous picture I posted!
[attachimg=#]
Yeah the holes are offset! I didnt drill the holes in the tenons untill the day I was going to fit the porch! because I had all the oak stored in my garage for a bit so as you know oak moves and will shrink so when it came to final assembly I would be able to do minor adjustments to the shoulders if necessary.
If the holes where already drilled and I was to remove some of the shoulders then I could loose the required offset needed.
One of the pegs I think I got the offset a little to much as it took some hammering to drive the peg in! Almost split the peg right down to the post my heart was racing then! Luckily the split stopped 20mm short. [embarassed]
JMB
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jvang said:
Thank you
Your method of hollowing out the centre then scribing the sides is not a new one but just a thought, if you had already scribed the plywood then why not just clamp onto the post & router it with a bearing guided cutter. Square off the corners & done. Might have been easier than jig sawing oak ?
Both methods would have the same result, just with the router there would be less chance of a slip with the jigsaw. Turned out really nice though.
Both methods would have the same result, just with the router there would be less chance of a slip with the jigsaw. Turned out really nice though.
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Nigel said:
I gotta admit I almost did one the wrong side! Was drilling away second to last tenon I place the auger bit into position just about to start the drill noticed I was on the wrong side of the mark! FEW! I would of been very angry with my self!
JMB
From looking at the pile of timbers you had delivered, I think you had made a few allowances for at least one or two mistooks [poke]
That is really a fine job. Scribing those timbers to out of plumb brick with base stones all skewed and out of level took a lot of work and a whole lot more patience. I have tried mating brickwork to match out of plumb and out of level timbers. that is tough, but I would think it is tougher to do what you have done.
Tinker
That is really a fine job. Scribing those timbers to out of plumb brick with base stones all skewed and out of level took a lot of work and a whole lot more patience. I have tried mating brickwork to match out of plumb and out of level timbers. that is tough, but I would think it is tougher to do what you have done.
Tinker
